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Cracked exhuast manifold

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by vein, Jul 17, 2010.

  1. vein
    Joined: Aug 9, 2005
    Posts: 479

    vein
    Member

    So I was off to the liquer store in my 53 ford, went out to start it up and WHOA! It was cracklefest in my garage! Shut it down and noticed I had two cracks on both sides of my exhuast manifold. So I came in to see If my ford parts catalogs carried this and no Exhaust manifold! So is there someway to repair the cracks? Its a 215 inline 6 my daily driver. looks like Ill be walking to the liquer store!
     
  2. ken1939
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,558

    ken1939

    Beyond those things you mix up, patches and such, I know that you can braze those manifolds. Not saying its easy. I had a 39 chevy that I had to cut the manifold to reposition the outlet to clear the steering. Late friend of mine was a steamfitter, and he brazed the two pcs together.
     
  3. lonewolf52
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 120

    lonewolf52
    Member

    Same thing happened to my 52 two summers ago. I sent it out to be welded, the guy had it for about a month and a half and then it still leaked. I've got another one now that I'm going to be taking off in the next week or two to put on some headers. PM me if you're interested in it.
     
  4. lonewolf52
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 120

    lonewolf52
    Member

    *brazed not welded.
     

  5. MODELA30
    Joined: Sep 23, 2009
    Posts: 1,180

    MODELA30
    Member

    You can braze cast iron but i like to weld it. The way you weld it is to heat that sucker up with a torch 450 degrees check it with a temp stick that is to check how hot it is they sell those at the local weld shop. Then weld it up with cast iron rod. It will hold forever!!!!! Let it cool down by itself not with water it has to cool down slowly the best way is to reheat it and slowly heat it down. 450 400 350 and so on. But before you weld all up you must v cut so you have good penetration and clean it up good and well the most important part make sure it is all strait or lined up so it bolts back on to the head knuck from indiana.
     
  6. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,869

    Deuces

    I changed the manifolds on a beat up o/t '93 F-250 with a 351 windsor. 4 cracks on the passenger side and 3 on the driver's side. So I had an extra set of '88 stock stainless HO Mustang headers laying around and I half assed jerry rigged the Y-pipe to make it work. That truck had over 350,000 miles on it. The owner of that truck finally got rid of it some weeks later to a construction company.. New manfolds for that truck were like $200 a piece for it. :eek:
     
  7. blt2go
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 551

    blt2go
    Member

    i've done modela30's method several times on bb chevy manifolds and ac tractors. works good but is very hot work as he stated. i save all mine that can wait until winter when the shop is cold and i need an excuse to start up the hot box.
     
  8. Eutectic makes a grate cast iron rod for exhaust manifolds
    then fowlow model a's advice
     
  9. vein
    Joined: Aug 9, 2005
    Posts: 479

    vein
    Member

    My skills would be a first time to have a go at it! I am always up for a learning curve! jandlcars is that a website Eutectic.
     
  10. vein
    Joined: Aug 9, 2005
    Posts: 479

    vein
    Member

    Is there any indicators that I couldve burnt a valve. I dont have any smoke coming out the exhuast and it seemed to be running fine until I started it up to go to the liquer store. All my temp gauges seem to be fine. But it has sounded a little funny over the past week.
     
  11. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837

    PeteFromTexas
    Member

    It's easy to weld. You just have to know how to do it.

    Have a torch and a hammer handy. Heat the area red hot. When it is cherry red weld it up. Mig or stick it doesn't matter. Make sure it stays red hot until the welding is finished. Once done ping it with the hammer lightly. this relieves the tension and helps it to not crack. Once cool grind it and done.

    An old timer showed that trick to me. Works great if done right. I've done a few and never had another crack come back up.
     
  12. STILL OLD
    Joined: Jan 18, 2010
    Posts: 77

    STILL OLD
    Member
    from tennessee

    If You drill a small hole at both ends of the crack, it won't get any longer when heating it up


    buzz
     
  13. vein
    Joined: Aug 9, 2005
    Posts: 479

    vein
    Member

    WOW! thanks guys! So drill my two small holes at the end of the cracks. Then should I dremel a small V groove? Or leave the cracks? get it red hot then use my mig to weld up the cracks while keeping it hot. once done ping it real lightly. then grind it with what grit of disc?
     

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