Sounddeadenershowdown.com has become invaluable on this topic. Big surprise: you don't need much dynamat type product to get its noise reducing qualities. It killls tinniness high end noise. It has insulation qualities, if you rolled up in it on a park bench in dec in central park itd help a littlebut you'd be much warmer with lobucrods stuff, which is entirely different and superior to the lowes bubble stuff. I've given it the pepsi challenge side by side and there's no comparison insulation wise. For noise good old jute is unbelievable how well it quiets things. Its like a voice over booth in my car now. No echos and very little outside noise except for windows of course. Lizard skin is great, but you can make it yoursewlf, its nothing more than glass microspheres from aerospace mixed into paint. I think its $10 or so a pound from aircraftspruce I think it is, there's lots of places to get them. Mr lizardskin is a super nice guy. The thing they don't mention is that in order to get the recommended credit card width of material on your metal it takes like 6 or 8 coats, I can't recall exactly but if you ask him he's honest about it. Its been a few years but I think I used around a gallon of product per coat on the interior of my 51 ford. I'm sure I did 3 or 4 coats and no way is it the thickness of a credit card. Maybe half as thick. I applied it with a $30 ebay undercoat gun. He sells a $200 gun that I've also used, but for my money it wasn't all that much better. I did a tech on insulation but I can't remember if I ever published it or not. Good luck whatever you decide.
I used Fat Mat on my 64's interior.Cost is less than Dynamat.Seems to work good for me,I'm satisfied Giz'
You local auto body place will have something called Chip Guard..which is a truck outer rocker panel coating. Goes on just like lizard skin and half the price. Used it for two cars with great results. One heavy or two lights coats and you're done. It also comes in rattle cans too..but goes on nice with the gun
I posted awhile back about some experience I had. It might be of some value to you. Joe http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199847
There has been a number of pros and cons stated but what struck me was your idea of "lizardskin OVER dynamat". I use the Lizardskin thermal barrier coating first and then the sound deadening Dynamat over the Lizardskin. My logic is that surface heat should be repelled as close to the skin of the car as possible, not after it has had time to cook your Dynamat.
I can only comment on the BED LINER, I have used a tinted SEM product on the bottom and the inside of my 39, both the inside and the bottom are FULLY covered except for the doors and I am already in for three gallons..... I still need to do the doors and the inside of the fenders to be done, I reckon at least another gallon. It not like I have driven the car yet, but I can tell the car will be very quiet, all "metallic" sound is well in check, it sounds really, really solid when you give the body nice slap. I have a friend who used lizard skin under his fenders to stop the inevitable "rock stars", didn't really work. Maybe lizard skin is too brittle? My son used the SEM product in his truck bed 5 years ago, it is still firm yet flexible, kind of like a hard rubber.
The cheap stuff being referred to from Lowe's is called Peel and Seal. Garunteed to last 10 years exposed to sunlight on trailer roofs. So you know it has to be good covered up........ Works great in my cars....
Another thread back from the dead. I read somewhere in my travels that strips of this type material laid down in a grid pattern (think 1.5" strips every 5 or 6 inches) takes care of 90% of any noise issues. You can quadruple the weight by doing full coverage to take care of the last 10% if you wish. The theory is noise doesn't actually penetrate the metal. Actually, the flat areas of the metal transfer the noise like a speaker cone so you just need to dampen that. I don't have any experience with this, never done it. But if I did, I'd probably do the strips with the asphalt stuff and then do full coverage with some type of foam/foil sandwich. I'd be shooting for what is hopefully an anti-weight, heat, noise solution combo.
that is interesting that you mention, just strips. i have seen many oem applications, [cars, machinery, appliances,etc] where they put just a "patch" of deadener in the middle.
That does make sense, assuming it's true that the larger flat areas are the "usual suspects" for booming, oilcaning and reproducing the exterior noises. Obviously more is better but with diminishing returns for full coverage.
No doubt. I'm an old racer that has spent many a evening in the garage looking for weight to shed. It's in my blood that every ounce is a victory, every pound a battle won.
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