July Banger Thread

OK, so I went to put the July Banger thread in the archives and it doesn't exist! So, here it is. I have nothing to add other than I'm hoping to collect my 100E banger to put into my Model-Y here soon....

 

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_trans-gearratios.htm I moved this up from June's thread. I think you should bookmark it

 

Our Model A wagon got here today..........

 

Did some engine painting.

Mike

 

I got a new Edmunds Custom air cleaner to put on the 97. It's pretty...

Going to a show on Sunday, just to have a reason to drive it. The kids are really loving the car, just begging me to take them for a ride around the neighborhood.

 

Let me first say I have been reading your Thread for many years ,great info.

I have a question, I bought a Price Head 6:1 for my banger project a 31 pickup. Would like to know if anyone is or has run one of these there is no relief for the pistons , my pistons come even with the deck .
I am going to be running 4/2 headers and twin 81's

 

Sounds like a nice setup. The head gasket should provide some room for you. My Winfield head was a flat top too. The engine builder cut some relief in it to lower the compression. But that was my guy, my engine, my combo...

 

really looks better- got some runs though, I am about to paint mine- any advise you can offer from experience.

 

I used easy off then that enviro friendly orange paint stripper and a small stainless steel wire brush, followed up with picklex 20. The green paint is a waterborne primer with a top coat of clear poly. I was going to scrape the runs but ran out of primer and knowing me I would have scraped down to bare metal.

Mike

 

I like Plasticote sold by Carquest. I have sprayed alot of my model A parts with either tractor paint or plasticote. Generally I have prepped by wire wheel, sandblasting more intricate parts, cleaning the parts with linseed oil and letting dry over night. Lastly I paint with lite coats and all coats within an hour. After a day or 2 if I don't like how something turns out I scuff it up and repaint. This was how I redid all my drivetrain. I had little issues with runs in the paints.

Just remember to read the directions well and experiment on something small first. I tried Krylon, Rustoleum, Ace Brand Rust stop, Bear, and some cheapy crap from wal-mart. Plasticote from Carquest, Valspar from Tractor Supply, and Caterpillar brand paint were the best. Here in California most of the good paints have been pulled from shelves do to high VOC content and replaced with waterbased crap. If you recoat with most of these water base paints you will have crinkles and have to restrip the part to paint again. Just my .46-Weeks

 

I use aerosol brake cleaner to clean the paint off my blocks. It dries fast and leaves a oil free surface.

It is on sale at Kreagen now for 1.99 a can I buy it a case at a time.

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This first doesn't have anything to do with painting but I just bought a set of "B" rods that were covered with old crud and cleaned them aerosol oven cleaner. Just apply and hose off. Be careful, it is potent stuff. Use outside and be careful of the fumes.
In regards to painting I use a Birchwood Casey Gun cleaning aerosol for a final degreasing before painting and I use a 2 part paint with a wet look hardener to paint my blocks. For touch up I use a 1/2 or 1 teaspoon metal measuring spoon. I apply with a foam applicator. At times it seems to dry so fast that it doesn't have time to run . For chassis mall items I prefer Rustoleum Gloss Black but it is thin. All for now, I have to run to Kragen's to buy a case of that stuff.

 

I took the A model out this weekend for it first run, I am having carby issues but I seems to be improving. I am running the original multiplate clutch and box, I put all new bearings in the gear box and the gears looked OK, but it was some time ago, first and second are very noisy should I be worried?

 

Congratulations for getting 'on the road'.
The A box has straight cut gears and will naturally be noisier than a later types with bevilled gears, what sort of oil are you using?

 

finaly got my 29 on the road thought i would give you a look

 

I have a Model B distributor in very nice shape that I want to put on a stock Model A engine. Every time I read about the A & B front covers and how to set a B distributor I get confused. I am pretty sure I can do the swap and get it to run, but I am looking for some help dialing it in.

I want to keep the Model A front cover and will use a timing light and make a pointer to find TDC on the crank pulley. Can anybody recommend a good starting place to set the advance on the B distributor at idle? The B distributor has about 20 degrees of centrifugal advance, right? So maybe advance it 5-10 degrees?

Thanks,
Will Kimble

 

Are both those Aussie highboy roadsters registerd on Club plates or full rego? Looking good guys.

 

its not registerd yet but it will be on full rego i hope
the plate on it in the pic is of my tudor

 

Finally picked up a complete Model A chassis. Runs decent, we'll see how she looks under the head sometime soon.
Thinking of putting a 26-27 roadster body on it. That will be awhile though.

 

I just got a little banger, It's a 31 brookville body rpu on a 31A frame runs like a new car lots of speed parts on it.... I just don't know what to do with it.....

 

THe "B" cover advances the timing to 19 degrees BTDC according to those that know
I would keep advancing until the engine starts to kick back the retard slightly. I have a sticky back degree strip on my vibration dampener and I set the static timing at 5 degrees BTDC. There are timing indicators available from most "A" suppliers that align with the stock pulley that are marked in degrees. To use them you install then locate TDC and mark your pulley with a file or chisel. You can use them for static timing or with a timing light. I initially set mine at 5 degrees as I stated and when I checked it at 1100 RPM's it had about 20 degrees advance. This is with a AL repop Winfield head slightly above 8 to 1 compression and as I use an Al. V8 flywheel and have learned the hard way not to advance the timing until it kicks back with this flywheel/starter combination so I left it the way it is. I had installed the lightest set of spring from a Mallory advance kit from Summit and I'm happy with the way it runs. This is not an exotic ignition, no bells or whistles. The car ran 82 MPH with a 15.9 ET Stock points and a condenser off of something and the coil from a tractor I'm rebuilding . I'm now in the process of rebuilding another "B" distributor for the 2 port, winged cap and all.

 

Thought you might get a kick out of this fellas. HOW TO UNSTICK A BANGER as performed by TRAD27 in my shop space. Poor thing is seized with scale rust below the pistons, the real shame is its standard bore with ford still stamped on the valves.-Weeks

 

That looks like it would cause some damage,,,,,,,,,to the hand! Looking at that makes me cringe

 

Its just a joke, but hey at least he has his safety glasses on.

I will knock the pistons out the top of the block once I put it on my engine stand and have it upside down with the crank out.-Weeks

 

I just bought a stocker 31 Tudor. Runs great but the clutch disc was stuck. Pulled the tyranny and pressure plate and the disc came out in two halves. Hope to find a disc and get it going real soon. I plan on keeping up with this thread. Joe

 

We have just bought this from a fellow HAMBer............it's somewhere in mid Atlantic at the moment.......there are sure to be lots of questions once it's here.





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That's a fine looking car. Congratulations !

 

I am running 600w oil and I also put in some Moreys oils stabiliser. Its sounds nasty, like a failed bearing. I may be able to put up a video on you tube so you can hear it, it is very quiet in third. I thought the rear end would be noisy as I just cleaned it and put it back together with the old worn bearings, however no noise from the rear that I can hear.
Brendan

 

No rego on mine yet, I am aiming for full reg.
regards
Brendan

 

gday brendon
my gearbox is noisy also but only when engine braking its fine when accelerating and 3rd gear is always quiet
not sure if yours is the same or always noisy