Was having overheating problems with the small radiator that i had to use with the track t nose. I decided to take the nose off, rework the frame and make the front axle a spring behind. I put a "t" grille shell on for now, with plans for a different shell later. The new set up with the mustang radiator works like a champ. I can actually take it out in traffic without worrying about it.
Yeah, I shortened the wheelbase also. I don't know other peoples experience with track t noses, but I tried everything to keep the car cool, and nothing worked.
The changes look good. What are you going to do with the old hood and sides? Are they all Speedway? I may be interested, let me know.
Neat car, I'm not a track nose fan either, and you don't many with small block Mopars... Any way you can bring the new shell down? It looks like it sits high in relation to the body...
I guess I'm in the minority but I liked the track nose better. At least you can drive it now that's a good thing.
You're not the only one....I liked the old nose too. Now that the engine is visable...looks like it may need to be dressed down a little for a retro look.
I rather like the track nose look on it but it looks good either way. I'd agree that the engine need a bling change to look traditonal but having a set of valve covers that match those you have on the car the lack of oil leaks may be worth having point their fingers and turn up their noses.
Looks good. I would have gotten rid of the windshield and kept the nose all while adding a canvas cover for the cock pit......and some black walled bias plys!
I too dug the nose but it was too long (what can I say I liked the old Jennifer Grey ). Looks good in its present form tho!
I plan on changing the valve covers and air cleaner soon. I am also looking at bias ply tires in the near future. I appreciate the replies from everyone (good and bad). I'll keep you posted on the upgrades. Thanks again.
No bad comments here....looks good in it's re-incarnation, however, I love the look of the track T's....
Heck yeah...the most obscure reference of the day. Jennifer Grey... I dug her better with the original honker too!
The balance of radiator size, air opening and air flow is critical to successful street use of a track nose/hood on the street. This Track Car built by a friend of mine about 40 years ago has a Falcon/Mustang radiator mounted in the frame a tip nose/hood assembly which when lowered into position forms a seal at the radiator core so air into the hose goes through the core. An puller electric fan takes care of at rest air movement. The engine is a stock 74 Nova 350 with 4bbl. Never a problem with heat except when behind a center outlet exhaust late model car at a stop light in Minneapolis at the 20th NSRA Nationals in 1990.
Hafta say I too like the track nose version a bit better, but it'd go a long way if you could lower the radiator/shell on it so it's not way above the cowl. I also sympathize with you regards the overheating issue, I struggle with that in my '36 with it's tiny nose and tiny Mustang radiator. A car you can't drive in traffic or on a warm day is no fun. No way was I losing the sectioned grill shell and hood sides, so I added a second radiator in the rear frame kick, and switched to a two row aluminum Mustang radiator. Problem solved. An aquaintance of mine with a '27 T rpu with Buick 455 and Mustang radiator used two motorcycle radiators and fans under the pickup bed. Works well. Brian
I like the looks of the Track T but I too am struggling to keep my 27 cool. I have replaced the crank pulley back to full size (from underdriven), have high volume water pump, custom made radiator, electric puller fan with manual and auto switch. I live the Monterey Ca, area which is very cool. On a 64 degree day in traffic I run about 215 to 220, but on the freeway at 60 to 65 MPH runs about 185. The car has a 500HP 406 SBC with six operable 2bbl rochesters and a four speed manual transmission. I love the car but hate seeing the engine running so hot. I have a 16 pound cap and the car does not usually "puke" coolant.
Try getting rid of the high volume water pump, you maybe pushing the water through the radiator to fast and not allowing the radiator to do it's job.
The only "problem" with your Track nose to radiator shell conversion is the height of the new shell. Looks by the pics to be at least 2-3 inches higher than the cowl. Really needs to be level with the cowl for best appearance and flow of line. One of the hardest things to do with a Track Nose is get the air, ALL the air going in the grille opening to go THROUGH the radiator. Especially if you have a complete hood or integral tip up nose with hood. 1st. Make up a bulkhead that seals against the nose cone and radiator exposing the core only, easy enough. 2nd. Trim, sand, grind your grille casting to expand the spaces between the bars. So many of the narrow grilles are way thick at the backs of the bars and the sides where the bars meet the outer ring. Easy enough. Of course the bigger the grille opening the better. 3rd. Make up a set of air deflectors inside the nose so all air is directed to the radiator core. This can be difficult to clear perches, springs, brake pipes, etc. but can be done with sheet metal or fibergalss sheet. Test with cardboard and duct tape patterns 4th. Add a "chin"-scoop to the bottom of the shell or a couple "cheek" scoops to supplement air intake. Don't forget a screen to stop pebbles and hardshell turtles that you might blast up from the road. 5th. Take a lesson from modern cars and try a little air dam just below the back side of the radiator lower tank. It creates a low-pressure area which helps evacuate hot air from the engine compartment. Try these in any order and test drive after each modification. You may not need them all. All of this assumes your heat problems are from the restricted air flow through the radiator due to a track nose and having an adequate radiator which cools fine without the nose or nose/hood combo rather than mechanical problems of engine timing or other circumstances.
I want to keep my Track nose, and I understand why Just261 went away from the Track T nose, but I am still trying various things to cool my 27 TT. Pasadenahotrod you provided me with some good ideas i will have to try those air deflectors. Today I pulled the 160 degree thermostat and drove about 10 miles in city and highway, (no thermostat) it was much worse could not cool even at speed. I quess I did need the restriction to slow the coolant down, Haychrishay was correct on that one, but I am still not going to get rid of the high volume water pump just yet. I put the thermostat back in and found it was better but still not acceptable. I used a thermal IR today to confirm the gauge reading of 245 and climbing. The only way to cool after that was to shut the engine off and run the electric fan, oh and the outside temp today was around 75. I am running 10 degrees initial timing and with 24 in the distributor no vacum advance. The 406 SBC has a large lumpy cam and does not come on hard until 2500 plus. I have a manual transmission so nothing else is putting heat into the radiator. The engine produces 500 HP and creates a lot of heat. I don't want to give up but it is wearing on my patience. I appreciate the input. I used thermal IR to check the pipes near the head, I am anywhere from 166f to 366f at idle. Two centers hottest, then rear, with the front being the most cool. The plugs look a little black (rich). I have 6 rochesters, on an X1 intake. The two center carbs have idle circuits with a progressive linkage to the ends (dumpers).