<><>Ladder Bar Picture Thread<><>

We had a few setbacks like our wedding, having to move out of our shop, my daily driver work truck broke so I had to fix that and work on it's replacement '63 Interational.

But I have been gathering parts. I picked up a tube front axle for hairpins and a transverse spring and a set of fresh heads for the 401 that have larger valves. So very soon I'll start back on it.



Thanks guys for keeping this thread going. I know there are alot of examples out there.




BloodyKnuckles

 

Cool Thread! I've been contemplating on what to do on my 51.Ladder bars or Traction Bars. I still would like to keep the car low and with the leaf spring. How do you determine the length of the ladder bars?Mounting points from rear end to frame.

 

my old school 40 stude coupe gasser setup

 

Heres what I'm thinking about for the Falcon, C10 trailing arms refabbed.

 

I like the last post idea of using the C-10 trailing arms as it is similar to a drilled I beam axle but the rear mounting would have to be, uh, a little different, but good idea using those drilled.

 

I don't want to be a smart-ass but you guys should know that when you install ladders the rear end has to float in order for them to work. A lot of the pic's show the front shackels in a normal hanger ,THIS WILL NOT WORK!!..All this will do is rip the weakest part of the system in half.

 

hear's are floaters.

 

Heres mine. Not quite finished yet.

 

...or the front of the bar has to be non-constrained with rubber bumpers...
.

 

wouldnt those be slapper bars then?

What if you use them as trailing arms?

 

....or shackle the front part like in the picture I posted earlier...

 

If you have anything beyond a stock mouse engine these are going to bend in no time. Tubing is always a better choice than bar stock as it has more strenght in the plains the bars will be working in.

 

front shackles. and if u have a front heim on the ladder bars, you can get some roll out of them if u are cornering, instead of the car goin on three wheels

 

someone say ladder bars?

 

Under the Vicky...


Terry

 

Has anyone seen or heard of ladder bars using a central pivot at the front monting? I have thought of using long gasser style ladder bars on the '42 that are close at the front like a Model A but bolt to a pivoting mount that has a large bolt in line with the driveshaft under the front U-joint so that the suspension will not be in a bind on a street car obviously with some sort of floater at the back leaf spring. Ideas??

 

Okay, I'm no artist and don't have CAD but a quick sketch might help relay what I am thinking of, I know, its a pain in the ass to build but the idea of a pivoting streetable ladder bar mount is the whole point. Look past the lack of artistic skill and lets hear it ......

 

Here's an extreme version of that, i use it on OT cars...I call it a torque arm.
Shackle plates that go around the driveshaft, big rubber pucks mount the nose up in the tunnel...





No floater required...the shackle does the floating.

 

These are made utilizing 36' wishbones under a 34' chassis.

 

How about the idea I am trying to convey as an "articulating ladder bar mount"? Just throwing ideas out there, not trying to reinvent the wheel.........

 

Oldguard, I think your design has merrit but I would add a way to lock it in place on each end if you want to race it...Loose on the street, locked to rock!

 

Your design looks kinda like a ladder bar setup, but I see it's function as drawn to be pure torque arm. I like it.

Adding springs or rubber dampers at the outboard ends of your yoke assy could serve somewhat like an adjustable anti-sway bar...increased roll stiffness in the rear without increasing rear spring rate.

 

I put mine in rubber rod ends.

Then boxed all my rear end brackets: ignore the shock bolt on the bottom.

 

Here are mine with old aluminum bushed heims on the front for said side roll factor so she dont tip! They run all the way to my driveshaft loop

 

Lots of cool ideas and designs.......

 

Picture I robbed from another thread.

 

Here is one that came on my 35 ford pickup ... they tend to fall out at the front, they are coming off!

 

to address binding- the o/t torque arm guys use a shackle at the front but it's in tension, not compression. This lets the front of the bar pick up on the mount/car with a vertical pull.

I'd think that a bar mounted under the shackle (compression) would tend to angle the shackle (swing it forward or back) which could tear something up at the back end (or make leaf springs do some funny things....)


rick

 

Here's the ones I bought to build the rear suspension on my Austin gasser. $199 new at JEG's.