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Metal on metal body panels, what do you use?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hellonwheels, Jun 14, 2010.

  1. hellonwheels
    Joined: Jan 16, 2007
    Posts: 674

    hellonwheels
    Member

    Done a few searches but coming up empty. I'm putting the tooltray/ rear floor in the rear of my 36 coupe. There is a steel brace that goes on the inside behind where the spare tire mount would go on the outside, and it touches the backside of the sheet metal on the inside of the coupe back. I'm wondering what you guys use for metal to metal contact between parts?

    Body welting? 3M windshield sealant? Body sealant? Combinations of these?

    It needs to be decently thick in consistency, not runny. I guess I'm concerned about expansion/contraction rates with heat and cold with respect to the paint on the outside, or maybe I'm overthinking this!

    The brace:

    [​IMG]

    The coupeback:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. GaDOC
    Joined: Jan 13, 2009
    Posts: 74

    GaDOC
    Member
    from Harlem Ga

    Unfamiliar with the 36. Is this bracket used to bolt the sheet metal or is this now not used because you removed the spare tire mount?
     
  3. If you glue it , it will show in certain temp swings. I would use something that has flexibility. Roof ribs are the same, look at a show the next time you go.
     
  4. Ford used a very thin body welting. It was 1 inch wide and a thin cloth like material, black in color. They also used it under the seat tracks to floor pans and inter fender pans to frame. Just glue it on one side to hold it in place. Most all the Ford dealers have it.
     

  5. hellonwheels
    Joined: Jan 16, 2007
    Posts: 674

    hellonwheels
    Member

    That's what I was afraid of, temp changes and the like...

    Is it the same stuff that you use on top of the frame? Mac's sells 1/8" welting for the frame and then they sell 'frame webbing and anti-squeek, oil treated, 1/16" thick'. I guess that's the stuff? What would you recommend for gluing it on?

    Just want to make sure I'm right, once I weld in the floor, that's it.
     
  6. GaDOC
    Joined: Jan 13, 2009
    Posts: 74

    GaDOC
    Member
    from Harlem Ga

    My question was over looked, so i will expand on what I think. This bracket is now not being used because you removed the tire mount. So why is it still needed and you don't just cutt it off, Maybe for support? If so why not make a bracket and weld it to the inside and bolt it to the bracket. I don't think it will give you much support if not.
     
  7. hellonwheels
    Joined: Jan 16, 2007
    Posts: 674

    hellonwheels
    Member

    No, the brace is needed, support for the trunk latch, trunk lid, back of the body in the center, etc. Just need to know what to put in between the brace and the lower trunk sheetmetal so there is no metal to metal contact. Sounds like the 1/16" thick webbing might be the ticket?
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2010
  8. I will go with the 1/16" webbing, for better insulation from squeaks and rattles, when I
    repair my tailpan. The original stuff was similar to old cloth-type electrical tape, and as mentioned, used in floor pans and roof ribs. Another example of Henry's (cheap) ingenuity.
    (Nice metalwork btw.....)
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2010
  9. hellonwheels
    Joined: Jan 16, 2007
    Posts: 674

    hellonwheels
    Member

    If I use the oil-treated webbing, what would you recommend for adhesive?
     
  10. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    I'd go with black urethane sealant since you're not doing a restoration.
    If water gets into that area, over time the webbing will cause rust. Use the sealant after you prime and seal the area.

    " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
     
  11. GaDOC
    Joined: Jan 13, 2009
    Posts: 74

    GaDOC
    Member
    from Harlem Ga

    I would use a piece of rubber like used in the bottom of a battery box.
     
  12. hellonwheels
    Joined: Jan 16, 2007
    Posts: 674

    hellonwheels
    Member

    Thanks for everyone's input, I ordered the 1/16" oil treated welting to put in between, I'm planning on attaching it to the brace with some kind of sealant (black urethane if I can find it) and leave the sheet metal side alone. That way it can expand and contract naturally and there won't be any metal to metal contact, which is my worry with using just a sealant.

    As far as rust goes, this car won't be exposed to the elements like how it was when it was new. If it does come to that, it'll probably be another 70 years from now and I won't much care 'cause I'll be dead! :)
     

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