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Just picked up 30 Model A sedan rust bucket need assistance

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chloichina, Jun 14, 2010.

  1. chloichina
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 101

    chloichina
    Member
    from Florida

  2. chloichina
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 101

    chloichina
    Member
    from Florida

    Well here it is, its mine! It is very rough, I have not done anything that needs this much work. How do I deal with this body sand blast, Ospho and body filler. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It is very pitted and the metal seems thin but still I have not done a car this old. I have not touched a car this old. Imagine that never touched a car this old. WOW :eek:
     
  3. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 560

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    You're going to learn to weld real soon!
     
  4. shoeboxford
    Joined: May 17, 2010
    Posts: 6

    shoeboxford
    Member
    from Indiana

    and how to form metal
     

  5. Psych
    Joined: Oct 4, 2003
    Posts: 71

    Psych
    Member

    If you are going to sand blast, I would set the air pressure real low. You can consider the use of fiber glass cloth over (or under) the existing metal to maintain the shape and then use filler to smooth. Good luck. Keep us informed.
     
  6. PhilJohnson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 906

    PhilJohnson
    Member

    Here is what I would do. I'd get me some wood pallets and make a sort of hillbilly dippin' tank. Get some thick plastic and cover the pallets. Throw the whole rusted works into it. Fill up with some water and pour in some molasses (but be sure to clean off all the oil and dirt first). Soak it for a few weeks, take it out and insta rust free A sedan :) The molasses mix with only eat the rust and unlike white vinegar will not keep eating at the metal. It takes a bit longer but I think when your dealing with thin metal it is best to find a gentler approach to it rather than blasting it or grinding it.
     
  7. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Advice? ...don't spend a dime on any parts until you make some progress on the body. What I mean is not grabbing cool gauges, driveline and other stuff first.

    I'd blast one quarter inside and out, then see if it's too far gone to weld panels on. If you save one quarter, keep going. But don't even think about buying anything besides what you need to patch the body shell.
     
  8. neonloverrob
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 560

    neonloverrob
    Member
    from newton, ks

    Been there, done that. Sell it and spend the money on a solid body. Trust me.
     
  9. chloichina
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 101

    chloichina
    Member
    from Florida

    Tips about the belt line? Any one make the Model A belt line or should I just make it into one roll insted of two? Any thoughts about USC All-Metal body filler?
     
  10. Rick Sis
    Joined: Nov 2, 2007
    Posts: 710

    Rick Sis
    Member
    from Tulsa OK

    I hate to discourage anyone from doing anything they really want to do, but I have to side with Rob on this one. The pics clearly show that it's unfortunately a cheese grater from top to bottom. Too far gone for anything short of an extremely rare car.

    On the question of methods of saving something is this condition, careful media blasting small areas and following with spray weld to build it back up seems to be the most current method. That is, if we were talking about a Pierce Arrow.
     
  11. chloichina
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 101

    chloichina
    Member
    from Florida

    My heart hurts!
     
  12. bobscogin
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,774

    bobscogin
    Member

    The dash rail looks great! The rest? Well, not so much. You will have so much time and money in it that you'll regret it in the end. Move on, and find a better body. Good Model A sedan bodies aren't that rare.

    Bob
     
  13. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    Yeah, for a guy who has no experience with old cars, you got yourself a HUGE project. I've been welding and doing body repair for decades and I wouldn't touch that car with a ten foot body hammer. Cut your losses and find another body without big holes all over.
     
  14. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,699

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

  15. Bphotrod
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 271

    Bphotrod
    Member
    from da U.P.

    Looks the most solid part of that car is its shadow! Id look for something a little better.
     
  16. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    I wouldn't media blast it. I would wire wheel the back of the panels to remove the flaky rust. I would then soak the steel a small section at a time with Evapo Rust. Once I had clean steel, I'd butter the back thin in the worst areas with MAXIM fast set body panel adhesive epoxy. I usually mix it on a board and spread it like bondo filler. That might save you a lot of steel reconstruction. Evapo rust is @$20/gal, the epoxy is @$30 for a caulk gun size tube.
     
  17. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    Are you okay son?
     
  18. chloichina
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 101

    chloichina
    Member
    from Florida

    Not yet, Still in a little shell shock. But say I do as you said then backed it with woven fiberglass for stability. How long do you think it will last? If I convert and or treat all the rust with additional support welded in. i.e. 1" square tubing for structure. I want to make a fun somewhat safe car to keep or just fix up the best I can and sell.
     
  19. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,306

    missysdad1
    Member

    I grew up in Maine and encountered many cars like yours sitting in the woods. They look like cars...but really aren't. They are the memory of cars.

    Can it be saved? Probably. Can it be saved economically? Probably not.

    :(
     
  20. propwash
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,857

    propwash
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    You asked for advice - my suggestion is to pay great heed to it. Just because it's old, doesn't mean you need to invest any time and money in it. As previously stated, there are plenty of A-bone Tudors out there in much better condition - and - I'd guess the purchase price of a decent body would be MUCH less than what you're going to spend trying to bring this old sieve back to life.

    dj
     
  21. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    If you already own it, nothing would be wrong with taking little bites at it. Just remove one panel at a time, replicate it or repair it. Might cost you more than replacing it in the long run, but nibbling away at it for $50 a week wouldn't seem so bad. I've bought a $100 sheet of steel that's kept me busy for weeks. 1" tubing structure would be a must either way, so why not. If it was easy, everyone would have one.
     
  22. chloichina
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 101

    chloichina
    Member
    from Florida

    I posted another thread about turning it into a phaeton to see what the consinsis would be. Wicked, I think you are right and if I totally mess this one up at least I can learn and make something that runs.
     
  23. ol'chevy
    Joined: Nov 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,283

    ol'chevy
    Member

    Use it to learn on, if you totally screw the pooch, at least you havent ruined a good body. If you are successful, you can show the befre and after pic.s with pride.
     
  24. chloichina
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 101

    chloichina
    Member
    from Florida

    Thanks that is my thought and people have given me great ideas. Thank you everyone. plus I could start another car at the same time if I can get it passed my wife?
     
  25. bob cutler
    Joined: Jul 8, 2009
    Posts: 291

    bob cutler
    Member

    This car is in almost the same shape as mine. I have built a new frame and have most of the suspension done. Just getting the inner floor skeliton started then on to the drive line. Man take your time do it the way you want and drive the hell out of it, half the fun is in the build.
     

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