Made some 1" spacers and dropped the spring pockets on the 51 Ford. In the pictures iv bolted everything together but before they go back in the car, everything is gettin welded up front and back. Now that their in there, Im not sure if it looks strong enough. I mean there's obviously alot of pressure on em, I know that but what do you guys think? As far as I know its just like the bolt in kit that was offered for years, I just want to make sure everything is cool. Thanks fellas -Andrew
did they make the spacers from a solid piece of steel and or aluminum? i have seen a kit on ebay before.
I think it was aluminum, but from the shitty ass pictures, there's alot more than just a bolt hole cut out of em.
you should be fine. i have the aluminum block kit. i havent installed it yet so im curious to see how yours is with the aerostar coils and blocks.
Why weld them? They are originally riveted. I'd trust good bolts better than a bad weld, besides it's easier to revert back if they're only bolted.
The spacer is doing essentially the same thing as cutting your spring down another inch the problem is you will basically be riding on the snubber "Da Tinman" has this set up on his but he cut the upper area on the spring pocket and removed some material for the snubber to have more clearance. On mine I chose to "step" my lower A arms 2 1/2" so I would maintain some travel before the snubber hit.Lowering this way (shorter spring)will also cause a neg camber issue, but Jamco has new upper mounting brackets that will allow you to use shims to correct it.
That setup is fine. Im doing the blocks on mine this weekend and Im running Aerostar springs as well. No need to weld at all. Grade 8 bolts and youre fine. Big Creep you want to order Moog cc850 thats the part number, beautiful ride and lower. Im so happy with mine. Aerostar 91-95 I think. Mine were 60 bucks
I forgot to post this pic here are the Aerostar springs next to a stock spring that had been sagged with a torch pretty significant difference
I found the kit, couldn't I fabricate these also? I mean its just some straight L stock with a couple holes drilled in it.
Im thinking he probably wants the bolts out of the way, at least the forward ones, because they will interfere with the installation of a front swaybar ('49 - '51 swaybars clamp inside the channel on the front side of the a-arm). Note to self...read entire post before commenting...already been said!
Not to hijack,but I've got a 20 year old kit from Butch to use on my Merc.Solid steel spacers,and probably USA bolts.One question,and I guess it's a stupid one.The instructions say to install the bolts from the top,which requires elongating the holes in the original pieces,to put the bolts in at an angle... Why does it matter which direction the bolts go?If I install them upside down,no holes need to be modified,yet the instructions stress to put them in from the top... Almost didn't look at the instructions,how hard can it be,yet that's what it says.. ?????
Read the post directly above yours...that and the bolts would have a better chance of staying in place if the nuts loosened up and came off.
Doesn't interfere on a Merc,if they did,it would still interfere less with the supplied bolts running upside down,heads on the bottom,nuts on the top..
The bolts are in tension... it doesnt matter if they face down or up. if they come loose you will have a catastrophic accident either way..so dont worry!!
Evidently apples and oranges... the post was originally about a '51 Ford, and they do interfere on a Ford if used pointing up.
Use grade 8 bolts and nuts with locktite. Also cap off the ends of the hollow bar to make it look better and keep water out. Yes , I would tack weld the spacer to the A-Arm, etc. No need to lay a long bead.
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