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painters...need advise...rusty roof

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ryno, May 28, 2010.

  1. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    I've got a wagon that id like to make a little more presentable.
    i plan on doing a quality paint job in the next few months.
    but for now to get started what should i use or do to get a good base.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i tried the search and saw a bunch of threads, but most where for smaller parts or frames. my concern with the acids and such or what ill effects will there be on rubber seals,glass, paint etc?

    so should i just da it?
    wire wheel?
    chemical?

    then use an expoxy primer such as a ppg dp or?
     
  2. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    I would DA the crust off with 80 grit, then try Evapo-rust. Treat in in small areas at a time so it doesn't end up being a big mess for you to keep up with. Epoxy prime. High fill primer, block, repeat.
     
  3. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    Anyone else have some insite on this?
     
  4. Domino
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 529

    Domino
    Member

    My Galaxie was just like that. We sanded as much as we could off of it and then we used a product called Rust-Mort. It is a rust converter made by SEM to convert iron oxide to iron phosphate. Essentially it is phosphoric acid with a couple other additives. It worked really well on my car and I am very happy with the results. You can wipe it on with a rag or brush it on to keep it from getting on parts you don't want it on. We taped off some parts to keep it off of it and it didn't get damaged.
     

  5. BOP-Nut
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 746

    BOP-Nut
    Member

  6. BOP-Nut
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 746

    BOP-Nut
    Member

    Yes, rust mort is good for areas you can't really get into.

    Killer stance on that wagon too.
     
  7. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member

    Check out a product I use a lot in my shop on rust metal, its called PHIX. www.ppcbest.com. Its non-toxic and it seems to work really well with no problems yet and I've been using it on my personal vehicles and clients alike for over 6 years now, and haven't had any comebacks.
     
  8. Dead Pan
    Joined: May 21, 2008
    Posts: 366

    Dead Pan
    Member

    i'd CLR that mutha and call it good

    [​IMG]
     
  9. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 6,138

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    Picklex is the stuff you want. Hit it with an afro-disk to strip paint and rust off the surface. That should get rid of 80% of what's there. Then apply the Picklex and it will start to dissolve the rust. It stinks so do it in a well ventilated area. Finally, wire brushes on a right angle grinder, and maybe even smaller brushes on a die grinder to finally remove all rust. Hit it with a good epoxy primer like HOK, and body work it from there.
     
  10. bryan6902
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,137

    bryan6902
    Member

    Make sure you wear a mask when you sand that mutha, thats a lot of crusty boogers in the making!
     
  11. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    shit thats half the fun

    all good info thanks guys, keep it coming.
     
  12. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    The most important tool I'd suggest you invest in at this time is a good set of goggles!

    Whether you choose to remove that rust with chemicals or by mechanical means PROTECT YOUR EYES first! What the acid won't eat, the strands of wire commin' off the wire wheel or the exploding Roloc disc will. I'd remove as much as I could with the phosporic acid then go down the mechanical route. That iron oxide is messy as hell and no good to breath. Also, watch out that the wirewheel or Roloc discs don't generate too much heat and warp your top panel.
    Given that there are no longer any heavy metals in epoxy primers I'd go with a urethane for a little better protection against rust.

    " The icecream truck in his neighborhood plays Helter-Skelter "
     
  13. krackerjack88
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,247

    krackerjack88
    Member
    from Fresno,Ca

    Hmmm. Just DA it off. Make sure you don't warp the metal. I also have used the paint stripper pads for rust and they work well also.
     
  14. krackerjack88
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,247

    krackerjack88
    Member
    from Fresno,Ca

    Best advice I think.
     
  15. THE SURGEON
    Joined: May 8, 2010
    Posts: 28

    THE SURGEON
    Member

    after you remove it and do whatever you going to do, i first put an acid etch primer not epoxy primer, an acid etch wont allow it to spread and get worse down the road, then prime and paint, DO NOT paint over an acid etch primer itself you MUST prime over it
     
  16. ls1wagon
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 137

    ls1wagon
    Member
    from dallas

    I used CLR, warm water and scotch bright. it took the rust right off, then cleared it.
    Befor
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    [​IMG]
    After
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
  17. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Joe's advice for the Picklex is good, but I save that stuff for deeply pitted areas and ones that are hard to get at. I would probably get a couple cases of beer, about 10 strip it wheels and invite some friends oover with grinders in hand and strip it with strip wheels and use Picklex on the hard to get areas. Then I'd bodywork it and HOK epoxy over the filler and bare steel.
     
  18. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    thanks guys, I'm planning on tackling this tomorrow.
     
  19. 6berry
    Joined: Apr 12, 2009
    Posts: 352

    6berry
    Member

    the clr really helped the rims on that car look way better. and somehow it uncovered all of those louvers?!?! i might need to try that stuff!!:cool:
     
  20. ls1wagon
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 137

    ls1wagon
    Member
    from dallas

    Yeah i bought a biscayne that was og paint and used the hood too louver
     
  21. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    so got me some 80 grit da paper and knock off the top layer or rust with that, and then used some evapo-rust. i wasnt too happy with the results.
    i first brushed it on, then used some scoth brite pads to work it in alittle more.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    on lunch break i read the intructions and it stated that it should reman saturated and not be allowed to evaporate, so i used some plastic to help seal it in better. the results where better, but still not what i'd had hoped for.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i used it on the rusty fender tops with the scoth brite pads and it worked really well there. the rust wasnt all the though the paint though.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  22. 55chieftan
    Joined: Feb 13, 2008
    Posts: 309

    55chieftan
    Member
    from Maryland

    Looks like good results. :)
     
  23. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,730

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    Strip it discs then OSPHO is how I would've handled it. But there is no easy way except for someone else doing it. I know you'll get it done. Can't wait to see what the long roof gets paint wise.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2010
  24. Bondoboy
    Joined: Apr 14, 2005
    Posts: 648

    Bondoboy
    Member

    thats what I use too. DA it with 80 until its about as clean as that will get it, then follow the directions on the OSPHO, you put it on with scotch brite pads and then rinse it off with water. Then spray on a coat of green metal etch, followed by primer.. The OSPHO stops the rust and etches the metal, and then the metal etch you spray on sticks right to it and really stops the rust..
     
  25. Chaoticcustoms
    Joined: Sep 20, 2008
    Posts: 270

    Chaoticcustoms
    Member

    Kinda surprised no one suggested a light sandblasting...which was the only way ive ever heard of to get EVERYTHING out.
     
  26. stroupedesign
    Joined: May 8, 2010
    Posts: 182

    stroupedesign
    Member
    from Tustin, CA

    Naval Jelly will stop the rust. May take a couple of coats to get a really pitted areas. Then Scotchbrite or sand the dried up Naval Jelly (will be like a white powder/film on the metal). Use an Etch Primer and then a catalysed high build prime. Apply paint as required.
     
  27. howco
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 295

    howco
    Member

    Amazing what a little spit and elbow grease will do, looks great, I would roll it..
     
  28. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,470

    ryno
    Member

    But there is no easy way except for someone else doing it. I know you'll get it done. [/QUOTE]
    i wish i had the funds
    that will probably come later, I'm not quite ready to rip it down that far yet, gonna let her enjoy the summer and then go after it this winter.
    thanks.

    im going to try another chemical tomorrow.
     

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