I've got a wagon that id like to make a little more presentable. i plan on doing a quality paint job in the next few months. but for now to get started what should i use or do to get a good base. i tried the search and saw a bunch of threads, but most where for smaller parts or frames. my concern with the acids and such or what ill effects will there be on rubber seals,glass, paint etc? so should i just da it? wire wheel? chemical? then use an expoxy primer such as a ppg dp or?
I would DA the crust off with 80 grit, then try Evapo-rust. Treat in in small areas at a time so it doesn't end up being a big mess for you to keep up with. Epoxy prime. High fill primer, block, repeat.
My Galaxie was just like that. We sanded as much as we could off of it and then we used a product called Rust-Mort. It is a rust converter made by SEM to convert iron oxide to iron phosphate. Essentially it is phosphoric acid with a couple other additives. It worked really well on my car and I am very happy with the results. You can wipe it on with a rag or brush it on to keep it from getting on parts you don't want it on. We taped off some parts to keep it off of it and it didn't get damaged.
Get rid of it with 3M rolloc strip discs, or http://www.eastwood.com/stripping-disc-7.html these. Then you'll have to use an etch primer as a corrosion protector. Then a high build primer
Check out a product I use a lot in my shop on rust metal, its called PHIX. www.ppcbest.com. Its non-toxic and it seems to work really well with no problems yet and I've been using it on my personal vehicles and clients alike for over 6 years now, and haven't had any comebacks.
Picklex is the stuff you want. Hit it with an afro-disk to strip paint and rust off the surface. That should get rid of 80% of what's there. Then apply the Picklex and it will start to dissolve the rust. It stinks so do it in a well ventilated area. Finally, wire brushes on a right angle grinder, and maybe even smaller brushes on a die grinder to finally remove all rust. Hit it with a good epoxy primer like HOK, and body work it from there.
Hey, The most important tool I'd suggest you invest in at this time is a good set of goggles! Whether you choose to remove that rust with chemicals or by mechanical means PROTECT YOUR EYES first! What the acid won't eat, the strands of wire commin' off the wire wheel or the exploding Roloc disc will. I'd remove as much as I could with the phosporic acid then go down the mechanical route. That iron oxide is messy as hell and no good to breath. Also, watch out that the wirewheel or Roloc discs don't generate too much heat and warp your top panel. Given that there are no longer any heavy metals in epoxy primers I'd go with a urethane for a little better protection against rust. " The icecream truck in his neighborhood plays Helter-Skelter "
Hmmm. Just DA it off. Make sure you don't warp the metal. I also have used the paint stripper pads for rust and they work well also.
after you remove it and do whatever you going to do, i first put an acid etch primer not epoxy primer, an acid etch wont allow it to spread and get worse down the road, then prime and paint, DO NOT paint over an acid etch primer itself you MUST prime over it
Joe's advice for the Picklex is good, but I save that stuff for deeply pitted areas and ones that are hard to get at. I would probably get a couple cases of beer, about 10 strip it wheels and invite some friends oover with grinders in hand and strip it with strip wheels and use Picklex on the hard to get areas. Then I'd bodywork it and HOK epoxy over the filler and bare steel.
the clr really helped the rims on that car look way better. and somehow it uncovered all of those louvers?!?! i might need to try that stuff!!
so got me some 80 grit da paper and knock off the top layer or rust with that, and then used some evapo-rust. i wasnt too happy with the results. i first brushed it on, then used some scoth brite pads to work it in alittle more. on lunch break i read the intructions and it stated that it should reman saturated and not be allowed to evaporate, so i used some plastic to help seal it in better. the results where better, but still not what i'd had hoped for. i used it on the rusty fender tops with the scoth brite pads and it worked really well there. the rust wasnt all the though the paint though.
Strip it discs then OSPHO is how I would've handled it. But there is no easy way except for someone else doing it. I know you'll get it done. Can't wait to see what the long roof gets paint wise.
thats what I use too. DA it with 80 until its about as clean as that will get it, then follow the directions on the OSPHO, you put it on with scotch brite pads and then rinse it off with water. Then spray on a coat of green metal etch, followed by primer.. The OSPHO stops the rust and etches the metal, and then the metal etch you spray on sticks right to it and really stops the rust..
Kinda surprised no one suggested a light sandblasting...which was the only way ive ever heard of to get EVERYTHING out.
Naval Jelly will stop the rust. May take a couple of coats to get a really pitted areas. Then Scotchbrite or sand the dried up Naval Jelly (will be like a white powder/film on the metal). Use an Etch Primer and then a catalysed high build prime. Apply paint as required.
But there is no easy way except for someone else doing it. I know you'll get it done. [/QUOTE] i wish i had the funds that will probably come later, I'm not quite ready to rip it down that far yet, gonna let her enjoy the summer and then go after it this winter. thanks. im going to try another chemical tomorrow.