Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

The 41-49 international pickups fit very nicely on an S-10 frame.

 

Looking good!

 

The stock motor mounts worked, the stock driveline even worked.

 

Can someone measure backing plate to backing plate on their 4x4 s10 rear axle. I need a measurement to use as a reference. Thanks much appreciated.

 

Nope, they are longer. I checked the specs on a 93 S10 frame which i am buying for my '40 ford fordor sedan and the extended cab will require me to cut out 11" of the frame to match my wheelbase of 112". But like you say the standard cab long bed is difficult to find. Everyone wanted the plush models w/ more room.

 

Nope, they are longer. I checked the specs on a 93 S10 frame which i am buying for my '40 ford fordor sedan and the extended cab will require me to cut out 11" of the frame to match my wheelbase of 112". But like you say the standard cab long bed is difficult to find. Everyone wanted the plush models w/ more room.

 

heres all the wheelbases and the trucks they belong to in a handy chart

 

I know this is somewhat off the norm, but has anyone considered the 4x4 frame instead of the 2wd?

Seems the adjustability of the torsion bars up front might be useful, especially with a larger engine than stock.

Are the 4x4 frames appreciably higher than the 2wd? Can they be lowered enough to make it worthwhile?

Was thinking that swapping in an AWD transfer case out of an Astro van or older Bravada in place of the 4x4 case would make snowy weather driving doable without much extra work.

 

My dad put a '40 Ford P/U on an 86ish 4x4 S10. He had to put some Blazer 4x4 steel wheels on the front (large inboard offset) to make it look right, but the last time I saw it, it was coming along nice. I was really impressed at how well everything fit.

 

chrisser, the 4x4 frame has its pros and cons like any frame swap. you can change to Rack and Pinion as the suspension is wider allowing for use of a ford explorer rack. this may rectify the steering/radiator issue.

lowering a 4x4 frame and keeping good geometry is not easy. so use a 4x4 only if you want AWD or 4x4.

 

Thanks for the info Scott.

I've been looking around and haven't been able to find any good info on how much different the height of the 4x4 chasis is to the 2wd or what the implications are for lowering.

From what I've seen, the main obstacle appears to be that, at some point, the front wheel driveshafts will hit the underside of the frame member that goes over them and it doesn't appear that they can be notched easily.

Plus there are likely issues with operating the suspension outside of it's intended range, but those are probably easier to fix than the driveshaft interfering with the frame...

This is probably even further outside of Hamb-friendliness than this thread, but I've been inspired by this guy who is building a Bugatti replica on a 2wd s-10 chassis

http://home.roadrunner.com/~trumpetb/57SC/

He says he's lowering it around 3" using dropped spindles. I'm sorta curious how much you'd have to lower a 4x4 chassis to get to the same level. I believe the frame on the 4x4 arches a bit over the front axle area, but it still looks like it'd be a tight fit

 

whats so great about a s-10 frame? Id rather have the frame that actually fits. seems like a lot of work for little improvement.

 

Chrisser, check this out http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/pdf/LD/LD_ST_Truck/LD_ST_Truck_pgs.pdf

you can get 2" drop spindles for the 2WD S-10, however more than that requires spring changes. more than 3" requires new a-arms to keep the geometry. The 4WD is intended to be 4WD. if you try to run the chassis as 2WD, you need the front half shafts to hold the bearings together.

If you are looking for alternatives to an S-10 frame swap under a '47-'55 AD truck, PM me to discuss further.

Scott

 

Yup...you can cut down an old set of outer CV joints to use as lock bolts to hold the hubs in place.
Not even possible to push it around the garage without the shafts bolted in place.
The only thing keeping it all together would be the grease seal and the caliper if you left the shafts out!!!

 

I have that doc. Took me awhile to decode, but.

If you pick chassis 10603 - regular cab shortbed pickup. It is available in both 2wd and 4wd, S10603 being 2wd (page 51) and T10603 being 4wd (page 52).

Correspondingly, the chassis measurements are on pp 65 (S10000) and 66 (T10000).

If you pick a tire size, say P205/75R15, on both charts for S10603 and T10603, the SLR dimensions are the same, the 2wd track is narrower but the ground clearance on the 4wd is actually less than the 2wd (217.3mm 4wd vs 233.5mm on the 2wd).

If you then go back to the diagrams on pp 51 and 52 and note the lowest point on the chassis (which presumably equates to ground clearance), they occur at exactly the same point on the frame - under the cab.

From all that, it appears that the 4x4 chassis is actually already lower than the 2wd chassis by about an inch and that presumably is with the front axles parallel or nearly parallel with the ground (based on the diagram on pg 66).

That seems counterintuitive. 4x4s always "look" higher, but they generally also have larger wheels and tires, and I wonder if the body isn't raised up too.

That's what led to my original question. The Syclone chassis was essentially identical to the S-10 4wd with different torsion keys to lower the front suspension (I don't know what they did in the rear off the top of my head), but by what amount, I don't know.

If the 4x4 with identical tires is already lower by an inch, and OEM parts can lower it more (1-2"?) without issues, it sounds like it would be an interesting option for those of us who live where it snows.

 

...

 

Strange idea... I don't know personally if this will work but I think you could take the lower ball joint out of the 4X4 a-arm replace it upside down with the shaft upward and then put on a 2wd spindle. Like I said I have not tried this but it might work.

 

You can get torsion keys from bell-tec to lower the front 3". 3" blocks in the back. Thats the most you can do with the 4x4 S-10's. You could eliminate the 4wd components as mentioned above if you wanted. Too much work for me, but whatever works for you.

Heres a 1st generation blazer lowered 3/3"

 

......

 

That looks plenty low...and you can still use the 4wd. Pretty cool if your putting together an all weather driver!

personally I'd just run it at stock height for a truck swap. I'd use it as a truck anyway! LOL
!
The 4 door Blazers have a flat frame right to the rear kickup which would help with some of the car swaps...IF the wheelbase is within reason as is or with some mild revision, like redrilling the spring pads or what have you...

 

I may have missed it in the thread somewhere, but here is a little info and a preview of what I am starting on here at the shop...

The Ford Explorer 8.8 rear is a direct bolt-in for the S-10 rear end. Why do this, you ask? Here's why:

1. The pinion in the 8.8 is basically the same as a 12 bolt Chevy rear. This is the part of the rear end that takes the most abuse. The bearing is even the same part number I'm told. Try finding a 12 bolt rear end at a junkyard for $100?!?!!!?

2. It is a direct bolt in.

3. If you get 93 (IIRC) model year and up, they all come with disc brakes.

4. A lot of them come with locker units. (Think posi-track)

5. Most are 3.73 geared, making for a peppy gear set.

6. Since cash for clunkers, they are a dime a dozen.

7. They are 3 inches wider than the stock S10 rear. making the offset problem a little easier to fix. Most common wheel designs come in BOTH the 4.5 pattern of the ford rear and the 4.75 pattern of Chevy. So that isn't an issue either. Just order a set of each. Fords for the rear and Chevy for the front.

8. The best reason to get one......STRONG!! We run one under a 1500 hp Mustang and run low 7's in the 1/4 mile and have not broken it yet. Weld the tubes and put a C-clip eliminator kit in one, ($150) and you have a pretty much bomb-proof rear end.

The Mustang 8.8 rear is a centered chunk unit. The Exploder one has the center section offset to the right 3 inches IIRC. On a truck not a big deal. It is underneath anyway. We build S10 drag trucks and use them alot. I just threw one under a Nissan Hardbody with 388 inches of SBC in it. Awsome setup.

BTW, the tag on the rear end cover will tell what it is...Look for 8.8 on it and (Ex. 3L73) would be a 3.73 rear gear with a locker in it. SPIN BOTH TIRES BABY!

Hope this helps. [email protected] if you have questions.

Mark



Oh, I almost forgot....I HATE unibody cars. So I'm doing a '92 S10 std. cab short box swap onto our 1972 RS Camaro. Wider tires and the 8.8 swap will make a pro-tour car for next to no $$$ allowing WIDE tires all the way around and S10 lowering parts to set the handling up for Hot Rod Power Tour use or track days. Stay tuned....Pics on the website for the shop.

 

Ok so I have a 1947 chevy stylemaster coupe and it was riding on its original frame but the frame had so much rust and cracks I knew to get it road worthy I had options but a frame swap seemed like the most benefical one. So I purchased a 1985 s10 chevy truck and scrapped the body motor and trans so I could put my 47's body and straight six in to it. I have done all the foot work of demounting the 47' from the old frame as well as demounting the s10 from its frame and I have reached that critical cross road before actually fabricating and welding the body mounts for the 47 to be placed onto the s10 frame and I just want to make sure that I get all the advice I can before doing so. If anyone out there has done this process or something similar like it; I see in the posts alot of you have then please shoot me a line and if possible give me a few words of wisdom that I could use through this final transistion it would be highly appreciated thanks and keep posting all this great Q&A its a big help.

 

Mark:

First off, OMFG you are my hero!

Second, although the Camaro is a little OT for this forum, the things you do to the chassis are certainly not! I plan on checking the pics out on the shop page, but man, feel free to send some chassis teaser pics our way. We'd love to see the awesomeness you do to what was once a humble S-10!

The info you provided thus far is MUCH appreciated.

~Jason

 

Maybe this is a good place to ask. I have a 1946 International Harvestor K-3. I am thinking about the S-10 swap but want to know what I'm getting into. I have a long bed. 8.5 feet! My front to back wheel spacing is 11 feet! 132"s!!!
Any suggestions to help me find the right donor chassis to speed up my project? I plan to run a 327 and 700R4 combo.

 

Keep the great information coming fellas .

 

so i have an 53 international r110 with a bent and broken frame and have been reading this thread. so went for a drive, found someone with 4 s10's. he has got 2 that he going to junk,a reg cab sortbox and a ext cab reg box that runs. i was thinking of using the ext cab and keep the motor in it till im ready for the 350ci conversion......but someone has a fullsize chevy and i wanted to know if using a full size chevy pickup that already has a 350 in it would work to? or is it just to big and better off with the s10? any info on this idea would be much appreciated. what should I do?

 

metal1 you just need to take allot of measurements
center of front wheel to firewall (is your motor going to have clearance from old firewall), width of frame inside and out,wheelbase (center of wheel to wheel front and back) will you have to shorten or extend the frame , if it looks like you cab and nose can be trans planted onto it with new body mounts i know the rest is easy i speak from experience transfer everything from the new truck wiring ,a/c/ cruise control
the only major worry is where the rims sit on the new frame but that is fixed with new rims to make up the offset if any

 

Does any one know the Track width of the Front, and the rear? and where would be the best area to measure from?

 

You are way up North... Hello,,, Take a few measurements wheel base wize and the track width.. look through the thread as well.. I believe the wheelbase for s10s are here some where..

 

I've got a good Explorer 8.8 to go under my '54. Just how much of a job is it to swap in? I read about it awhile back, but I've already forgot the details.