Speedo is still not correct but the plugs were black,I still need to drive it some more to see if my jet and power valve spring change done any good and cant get the speedo corrected untill I determine the gears I want to use as the 2.79s are way too tall.
Jeff, swing by my house this weekend and I'll GIVE you the gear reduction unit you need! It's the same one I used on the first T-5. The second one had different gears for the speedo that didn't require the reduction unit. The reduction unit is now collecting dust. If you can use it, it's yours. PM me. Vance
Other things that come to mind are what shape is your ignition system in, and if you have recently worked on the carb and somehow blocked off the vacuum port on the bottom of the carb (for the power valve) by using the wrong gasket, etc... Blocking off the vac signal to the power valve is going to keep it open all the time making for a rich condition... There is no reason to be using OD with a 2.79 rearend. The real problem here is the way you're trying to drive it with the mismatched parts. There is no genuine reason for getting worse milage by switching over to a T5. You really need to look into a rearend in the 3.42-3.73 range. The 235 likes to cruise around 2200rpms @ 65mph. Do this, and make sure the ignition & timing are up to snuff and the carb is set up right, and you should be looking at around 20mpg...
The original carbs on those motors are not designed for them to run at speeds the moderns motors do so some tweeking is needed,I would install one of those carbs Langdons sells but I want the motor to look as original as I can. As for ignition I am going to get another distibutor and have GMC Bubba do his magic and convert to electronic but right now I am lugging down the motor too much with the too tall gears and the motor is out of its happy spot,I hardly use 4th around town and I can use 5th but its on the highway only but we will be having a big swapmeet soon so I hope to find better gears and then I can finish dialing it in and get the speedo corrected.
Look at my avatar. AD truck with hopped up 261 with Rochester B's & progressive linkage. T5 and 3:55 rearend gears and 27" tall tires. Gets 22mpg. do what you want...
I just drug home a T-5 non-world class W/electronic speedo. I believe it's out of an S-10. It's the wrong gear-box but it was cheep. If I don't use it, it will hang on the rack with the other Muncie's and Saginaw's. I've been read the posts about swapping to a T-5 in their rides. Using this clutch-disc and that. Some years ago had a '91 S-10, 2.8, with (I think) NV 1500. The plug at the back of the camshaft sprung and oiled down the clutch. I repaired the clutch as one should. When I ordered the clutch disc, 2 where available. Witch one do you have? How do I know. Put it all together, took it for spin around the bloch. Well guess what, It had a vibration. Took it all apart, check it out, all looked good. Took the disc back to the parts supplyer, as luck would have it my old dics was still there. Comparing the two disc's, the centers where different. Now the question is, With all of these pieces-parts,from this and from that, put togather. Has anyone ever experienced any hard shifting, chatter, vibration or some other negative experience? All knowledge is useless, till you need it.
T5 behind a 235 works ok but keep your rear gears low enough to compensate for the lack of HP at highway speeds
whats year trans did you use? i wanna do this to my 56 chevy car but still unsure of what year to use wich would be best year to use with minor modifications, i also just saw a t5 trans on CL for $100 is off a 88 s10 would that year work well?
I have been looking for a reman 10" pressure plate for my T5 into a 235 conversion but so far I am out of luck. I have the throwout bearing and disc. Does anyone have a part # for the early 10" 235 clutch plate. I believe it came on the 58-60's and someone else said it may be the same size as the early V/8's
There is no 10" 14 spline clutch disc. You can try using a 9 5/8" from an 80's Jeep or I think some S10's also used that size. Pretty sure there is no 10" 26 spline either. That would need to be custom made. Or change your flywheel to one for an 11" clutch, then you can get anything you want.
I have a 10" 14 spline disck that will work. Speedway sells them for a T5 flathead conversion. Now I just need a new pressure plate like my original 10" that came off of my 235. I need to keep the flywheel because of the foot starter. I just can't find the pressure plate.
I've got a 1960 235 w/T-5 done by a cat in NJ in my Panel truck... It have some terrible sounds coming form it... I'm about to dig into it, so I can figure out where the sounds are coming from! I wonder if it's done correctly! I'm sure this thred will come in very handy! Thanks Klaus
OK, I've just found this thread and I may have missed a few posts but I've done a few flattie to 5-speed conversions so here's my 2 cents. Doesn't the Chevy run (or should I say, could it run) the regular Borg and Beck 10" p-plate like the flatheads do? I'm not sure of your configuration so I apologize. But, when all is said and done and the B&B p-plate could work, you could have your flywheel drilled and tapped for it, balance everything, and you are good to go. This would match the flathead configs and keep it simple for future changes/repairs.
Just wondering how well a T-5 would work for towing. I have a 55 1/2 ton, (2nd series), with a 235, 3 speed and stock rear axel. The most that it would be pulling would be a 18 foot, 2 axel car trailer, with a 59 Chevy on it. The trans that I have is a 5 speed out of a 85 S-10, with a 2.8 V6. Would the T-5 hold up OK, in this conbination?
Ok, wasn't aware of what the flathead guys were up to. Are you running 6 or 12 volt starter? both were made with foot or solenoid starting... Take a look at a Hollander interchange manual. It will list clutch sizes.
Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone knew if their is a T-5 that will bolt up behind a 84' chevy 250ci inline. Any knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated as I can't take the IH in the free-way due to the low gearing. Thanks LB
I personnally wouldn't use a T5 for hauling cars with. I'd look into an NV4500 5spd for doing that...
same procedure as putting a T5 behind an SBC or any other Chevy inline six. You'll want an '82-92 version due to the bolt pattern. which shifter position do you need? cable drive or electric speedo sender?
I have Low w/3-speed on it now so I'm thinkin that a shifter anywhere on it is fine. Im unfamiliar with the 90's swap as far as adapters and mods go. I can do any of the work as long as I know the procedure. This is new one for me.
I spent less on the whole swap than what you can buy an adapter plate for. Hot rodding ain't for sissies. 1950IH, see page 3, post #45 in this thread. It shows how very different the shifters can be, and why you want a s10 t5 or 1/2 ton 5 speed for the shifter location, the camaro t5 will put the shifter in your bench seat.
Yep, got that part. Sorry, I should have expanded on that. The way the trans sits now is my shifter is at the maximum foward position availible. That allows for a lot of play as far as space gos. Although the s-10 non-world class will be my best bet for shifter location. The speedo cable on my truck is a gear driven. The main prob I have been having is locating the proper parts and mods neccesary for the conversion.I have seen a multitude of older engine to t-5 convesions but haven't found any for mine. Also this setup is on a 74' chevy shortbed chassis. Thanks LB
'83-89 S10 then. It will have the right bolt pattern, forward shifter location, and SOME will have the cable driven speedo. You need to look at it before you buy it to make sure. These have 14 splines on the input shaft, so you'll need to change your disc. You need to know what size disc your are currently using. Not every size is available in 14 splines. The catch with this trans is that the input shaft and bearing retainer are too long for your application. You have two choices to solve it. Easiest is to spend $150 on a special spacer plate that moves the trans back. You just need to run a 1/2" drill bit through your 4 bolt holes. Cheapest is to drill out the 4 holes, cut 3/8" off the tip of the input, cut about 1" off the bearing retainer, and lengthen the splines with a Dremel tool so the clutch disc doesn't bind on the input shaft when installed. Or you could grind some off the back of the disc center, or add a thin shim between the trans and bellhousing, although sometimes that's not enough and you will still need to adjust the depth of the disc center or lengthen the splines. Your choice. This procedure is the same for putting any 7 1/8" long input T5 behind any earlier V8 or L6 that originally used a 6 5/8" long input trans. What to do for mounting into the vehicle is a case by case issue. You'll have to figure that out for yourself.
Definately got that. Thank you sir your knowledge is appreciated. I should be starting this project soon and will post it when I do. This why I love the hamb.LB
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