Bonneville styled 1932 tudor build

Dude, you really have me thinking about the salts. only one problem if I don't go in my car it's you're dream! See ya next year.

 

Chris, I'd be very careful with the fuel tank design and especially the fuel tank and filler location. The tank will be very vulnerable in the very back of the car with very little crush space in the event of an accident, and since it is inside with you there is little margin for error. Even in a minor rear end collision it would rupture. I would definitely recommend not having the fuel filler inside the car. Remember the Pinto? And the early Mustangs also had similiar problems. I know you like the stock back seat but I would take another look at the bottom cushion and springs. You could keep the stock mohair cover but I would ditch the seat springs and build a plywood base with some sculptured foam about 2-3 inches thick in the same shape as the stock seat. I think that might give you enough room to put the tank under the seat. You might need to flatten the stock floor some too towards the back. I just think it would be a safer way to go and you could keep the filler outside the car in an unobtrusive location behind the rear wheel possibly in the wheel well. Its always better to engineer safety into your design because Hot Rods aren't much fun if they can kill you.

 

I agree that behind the seat is dangerous in a crash.

It wouldn't work under the seat cause there is only a couple inches there anyway.

The only other place I can think of putting a gas tank is on either side of the drive-line in front of the rear end. Any issues with running two tanks separate? And how do you link them together? Fuel gauge, etc?

 

The last truck i built i ran 3 seperate gas tanks to hide them and carry enough fuel it took a little longer to fill but other then that i had no problems,and i just used some 1/2 line to connect all of them.

 

Full fendered Model A's usually run saddle tanks when they get rid of the cowl tank. They work in part because of the narrower Model A frame and the extra room under the splash aprons outside the frame rails. They look like this: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...ategory_id=80/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd117.htm If you ran balance tubes (one on top, one on the bottom) between tanks you could use one fuel sender but filling would be slow depending on the size of the tube. Otherwise you could use a transfer valve that Tanks Inc. uses on their Model A saddle tanks. I think you would need dual sending units that are switched when transfer valve is switched. The bad news there would be dual gas fillers too. Here's a link to their switching valve: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...category_id=62/home_id=62/mode=prod/prd93.htm

And then there's the issue of leaving room for the exhaust too. Its nice to keep that heat away from the tanks too. Hot gas makes problems like vapor lock and poor performance.

I went looked at my Tudor and its lower cushion seat springs and I see they have total of about 9-10 inches vertical height from the floor including the riser. I still think gutting the springs and building the tank inside that space is possible and easier. The seat won't be as soft and cushy but it wouldn't be unbearable either. This is a tough one to figure out but I'm sure you'll come up with a good solution. Just my 2 cents worth.........!!

By the way the smaller steering blister turned out just right!

 

Chris. How did the Boners do the tank in Dennis Varnis 2 door and they also built another black 2 dr that was about the same as Varnis? I did not have a back seat in the 2 chopped deuce highboy 2 drs I built. Even had a cover over the back on the first one. I liked the area for storage rather than passengers.

 

It's under the rear seat.

 

Chris(who helped build Varni's car) told me it was a tapered tank behind the seat filled through the window like he was orriginally thinking of.

 

My buddy who worked for the Bones sent me a p.m. saying both sedans had a gas tank behind the rear seat.


I'm wondering if I could build one and then have a racing style bladder that would fit inside. Those are designed not to rupture when hit. Just not sure how expensive that would be?

 

I didnt want to open a can of worms, but alot of good points have been made.

You dont want to kill the build but you dont want to kill yourself either!

It will all work out...............

 

Killer build man!

 

It may have been requested before, but I didn't see it: how about selling me a CD of all your build pics when you're done. Would be a great collection of photos.

 

I'm sure that wouldn't be a problem.I already have 300 pictures, and im sure there will be double that when I'm done.

I'm also in the process of having some t-shirts made. And when I get to where I will do the bare metal photo shoot on the car I will end up making some posters as well.

I'll defiantly keep everyone in touch when things are available.

 

The bladder would be a great idea if it's not cost prohibitive.............. or you could build it out of 1/4" plate so it wouldn't rupture!

 

Gorgeous work! I love salt flats inspired cars, especially the earlier ones. Beautiful. Any idea for paint?

 

Again GREAT build! Count me in for "CD" & "T"-shirts. cw.

 

Paint i'm kind of keeping a secret until its done. Defiantly one aspect of the car that i don't want the "Hamb" drama spread all over

 

Yeah pastels and heartbeat graphics aren't for everyone, but...

No, really from what you've told me the paint will be as cool as the rest of the car.

 

My lips are sealed.....................

 

I got my new steering arm made up. I had a guy up the street take a solid rod and thread both ends. Then I split it in half and used the ends for the parts that bolt through the spindles. Then I took my old steering arm, bent it and welded the two together. Once im finished with the welding ill bend up a plate that will gusset the inside and strengthen the weld area. But i'm that much closer to having steering

 

This may be a dumb question but, im just not that eduMAcated on steering blisters. Will you weld the seams of the blister to the cowl or put some kind of flang on it and used rivits.

Also, really nice job on the steering arm. It looks like it will just miss the headlight when you make a left turn. But will the tire be close when you make a right? I guess you'll find out when you make the drag link. And you can add a steering stop where ever you want.

Great build and i want you to know most of the time im in the garage and im having trouble with design or style, i ask myself.....WWSFSSD?
(What would Salt Flats Speed Shop Do?)

JGRAFF

 

Going back to your gastank location issue...

I like the idea of locating it undernieth the back seat. I seems you don't care for this idea (from what you've posted)...but realistically...how often is anyone gonna ride in your back seat anyway???

I think I'd agree with the others on here, with gutting the rear seat and putting the tank underneith. It would still look and work as a seat, the tank problem would be solved...and safely at that, and you wouldn't have to figure out how to mount 2 or 3 tanks under your body. The ony loss would be the long distance comfort in the back seat...and comfort is not always the first priority in building an old hot-rod anyway.

Just food for thought!

Like others have said...I too am quite sure you're gonna come up with a great solution!
This car is turning out so frikken cool!

 

On the blister I have a piece of flat aluminum welded on the inside. I will drill and tap that piece and have screws on the inside of the car holding it on.


On the steering. Ill have to make some adjustments on the king pin stops to prevent the wheel from hitting the drag link or wishbone.


Funny I have a long list of people that I think...what would they do too in this situation too

 

I think I have it all figured out.

So my plan is adapting a 32' 5 window rear window regulator and wood setup so that the rear window rolls down like the coupe.

Then move the seat forward 3" to 4". Build the gas tank behind the seat with the fill neck mounted in a package tray below the window with a cool old gas cap.

Then build an extension that extends out the window so you are filling outside the car (no spills inside).

Then vent it outside and no smells inside.

Ill probably make the back part of the tank out of plate so that it can withstand impact if hit from the rear end. Or see about on of those race style bladders to put inside.

 

That sounds like a good plan.
You might want to check on "off the shelf" bladder dimensions before you start fabbing, may be more cost-effective than custom.

 

That sounds great. As well, if you didn't want to give up too much space you could always thin-out the seat spring and notch around the fill area at the top.

 

Just some more shots of it all by its self. Pulling it out into the middle of the shop defiantly helps me get super excited again to keep on trucking along.

 

After all the detail pictures - it looks great when you back up and take some wider angle shots.

I love it.

 

the biggest mistake i ever made was selling my 32 tudor

 

Awesome.