Street Rodder Magazine had a year-long series of articles about rebuilding a 401. It was about 8 years or so ago, and I've seen it on-line, but I don't recall where. Mark
Here are a few to try http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0811sr_vintage_buick_engines/rebuild_kit.html http://www.carcraft.com/thehistoryof/65502_buick_nailhead/index.html http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/buick/0501em_air/index.html http://www.buicks.net/shop/index.shtml
I got mine at a swap meet, but I see them for sale on Ebay quite a bit. The old car literature dealer's also sell re-prints and I've also seen manuals on CD's for sale. Here's one I found using Google: http://www.classicbuicks.com/ShopManual.htm
There is a book out there that came out last year called "How to build Max Performance Buick Engines" and it is published by SA books (or something close to that) It is the most recent book that I have found and it goes over lots more than just the nailheads. Andy
If you need a factory service manual I have a 1960 book that covers the 364 and 401 engines (as well as the whole rest of the car) . I accidently bid on 2 on ebay and got 'em both. I'll sell the 2nd one for the $15.00 I have in it plus shipping if you are interested. Steve weim55 Colorado
I've heard that nearly all books written on how to rebuild the Nailhead contain major errors. Hop on skype and call Russel Martin from Centerville repair (he's building my 425) and he will be able to point you in the right direction. As an example, many engine builders who are not familiar with the Nailhead will apply Chevy clearances or Chevy lifters. Both of these assumptions will lead to problems. I'm not an expert but I've been a Nailhead consumer since 2001 and have ready many threads over at http://www.v8buick.com (a GREAT site for Buick lovers). Nailheads require a bit of special treatment to get the best out of them. Make sure you don't let people treat it just like any other GM V8.
BTW, a couple of things to remember: 1. Do NOT let any machine shop / rebuilder talk you into installing hardened valve seats. The valve seats in nailhead heads are very close to the water jacket and more than one head has been ruined because they were drilled through into the water jacket. Also, the nailhead heads & block are made with very high Nickel content and valve recession is not a problem. 2. Nailheads are internally balanced (or is it externally balanced??? Damn, I forgot!). They're balanced as a complete reciprocating assembly. In any event, somebody will chime in and set me straight, but it's important to let the rebuilder know, especially if they're used to doing SBC's.
x3 on the factory service manual. x2 on the valve seats, don't need them, the Nailhead has a relatively low spring pressure and high nickel content in the castings. The reciprocating assembly needs to be balanced as a complete assembly. If you do a search on here you will come up with tons of good information on Nailheads. the yahoo nailhead list and v8buick.com are full of good information as well.
Steve you have a PM. Thanks for the tips guys, I'm a Nailhead newbie so there will be more info needed.
Excellent thread, I am in the same boat as you Langy building a 401 but not in the US either, makes it hard huh??!! Mine is 30thou over and I want to stroke it but am having trouble finding info on doing that and where I can get a stroked crank for a 401. Bill (32Ford5) how good is your engine builder to deal with, I have had 'issues' so far and getting quoted at prices that would by me a 427SOHC!! Lets keep this thread going and use it as a source of info for us Nailhead freaks. Doc.
Nailheads suffer and benefit from having small intake and exhaust ports. I don't know the exact details but I believe that a 425 is already breathing really hard through the heads and there's precious little material left to remove. A clean up and port job with match porting is about the best you can do. Adding more cubic inches will produce more low end torque but will lower your max RPM. I say "benefit" because the same smaller ports also build impressive velocity which increases efficiency which is where Nailheads get all that luscious low end torque. Torque is what feels like power and a good port matched Nailhead with a complimentary cam (I asked for an extra lump in mine) will make for a very powerful and easy to drive and sound "growly" and cool. Here's what Russ told me when I asked about stroking... Russ is a gentleman, highly skilled, extremely knowledgeable and patient. He teaches as he goes and knows what works and what doesn't. I HIGHLY recommend him. He put me onto Mike Lewis (Protech - Fresno) who gave my heads a general cleanup and port match. These pics below are not my heads but he did these for another Nailhead customer so I thought I'd upload them to my gallery to show you guys. These pics below are from a zero miles 425 I bought. Figuring they might be of some interest in a Nailhead thread. When Russ opened it up here's what he found... Brand new Ross 10 thou over forged pistons. My brand new custom made Roto-Faze distributor with tach cable drive.
Great thread thus far. I thought I had heard the same thing about the hardened seats years ago but this just confirms it for me. I am getting ready to build a 401 as well and this is just what the doctor ordered!
Excellent, and thank you. I was put onto Gessler Head Porting in New Jersey USA, http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/gesslerheadporting/ghp.nsf/top-menu-items/ghp00 After talking to him the stroking and whole 'more cubes' idea is just a 'maybe if I have the $$?' But talking to him and learning what he does I think all the extra HP will be found in the heads an I'm putting a fair bit of scratch into them. The best way to serious HP would be forced induction but I am going to run Hilborn Injection so am concentrating on the heads. My short block was already worked over when I got it and is 30thou over. My crank, rods and pistons are ready to go as well but I will have the balancing checked over. I am still looking for bits and pieces as I am short a bit (Had to sell the motor but bought it back sans some parts when I got sorted) Does anyone know if a finned alloy sump is made for these? If not theres a project, make a casting buck for one, any opinions on front or rear sump? Oh well, cheers for now. Doc.
Greg is great. I had him perform his magic to a quadrajet intake and a dual quad intake. He still has pics of them on his website... I can find some detail shots if anyone wants to see them. He does top work.
I would never build a Nailhead looking for big HP numbers. I build them looking for bigger torque numbers. That's what they're all about. Build big torque and gear accordingly... If you plan on driving the car stay away from the cast pans. They do not dent or bend, they shatter. Not really a good thing to happen, I've seen it on one of the SBC pans, instant loss of all oil... Wasn't pretty. I've dented plain steel pans pretty good and just kept going...
Good point, cant say Ithought of the 'shattering' of a sump, sounds nasty. Im not looking for big HP, just big HP for a Nailhead. Doc.
I think with the right mods you could get 350-400HP (325hp for a 401 from the Factory) and over 500lb/ft torque (445 from a 401 from the factory). That should be plenty. I used to be surprised with how quick it would pull my massive 66 Electra so a built Nailhead in any rod should be a great ride! 500ft of torque is a LOT! More than some high horsepower motors and it's all in by 2800. You'll end up flipping it onto it's roof with that much low end torque! And the growl of a Nailhead is one of the greatest V8 sounds you'll hear. I also agree that a shattered sump is not a great thing. I never really thought of it like that. Got to love the H.A.M.B. just for nuggets like that.
Which factory service manual has the engine overhaul information? See a few different ones on eBay. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using H.A.M.B. mobile app
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