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1952 Chev deluxe - build log.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ryan272, Apr 4, 2010.

  1. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    G'day,

    So i thought i would start a thread to show the progress of the build of my '52 chevy, start to finish.
    I'll just update as i go along, ill try include relevant photos so you can see how it's going, and im sure post heaps of questions and complaints as well haha.

    Alright so here's what it looked like when i first got her:

    Front:
    [​IMG]

    Back:
    [​IMG]

    Over the weekend i've pulled the "interior" out (consisting of only the two bench seats), De-greased the engine bay, begun cleaning the floor and the boot, and semi-removed most of the wiring and headlining.
    The plans for tomorrow are to buy a whole heap of sandpaper, grab a chair, a mask, some good tunes and begin sanding down the body.
    I'll upload some more photos tomorrow night hopefully when I get some more done. But the sanding is definately going to be a long process.
    So yeah, more photos and a more detailed update tomorrow night :D
     
  2. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Alright!
    So, I had a very productive Easter weekend. Ive ripped all of the material off the seats and kept what i could for patterns, as rather than pay someone $800 I'm just going to head down to clark rubber (a foam/rubber/etc supplier in australia) and get some foam, some material, and cover the seats myself. This is just for roadworthy mind you, after I've got it registered I've got some plans for a much more professional interior ;) just can't justify spending $800 on something that's just gonna be ripped out.
    I then jumped inside and began cleaning the floor up with some wire wheels, and i must say I'm pretty impressed. There's some rust in the front passenger quarter but THAT'S IT! And It's a very minimal amount at that, easy to cut out and plate up.
    Moving on to the engine it's not as positive, radiator is shot, fuel pump is shot, plugs are shot, carbie is most likely shot, busted a welsh plug with the high pressure hose (whoops) and turning it over with the engine fan is just a little toooo easy. So again, rather than pay what could be thousands to basically build the engine again from the ground up, I'm going to grab a holden 202 engine (pre pollution) and a 5-speed and chuck that in, reliable, cheap as chips, and no 12v conversion needed :) Again it's only temporary until I chuck in that v8 :)
    I also removed the front bumper and grille which, mind you, took me the better part of 3 F***ing hours, i used penetrene on the bolts and some good ol fashioned elbow grease, but i'd be lucky if HALF the bolts didn't just snap. (also if anyone has one of these I'm sure youre aware, that bolt behind the indicator is probably the worst thought out place to put one) but got it off nontheless, and cleaned that up a bit with the wire wheels as well, if i wasnt such a perfectionist it could probably stay that way, but ill be sending that off to a sandblaster with the rest of the chrome parts to clean off that shitty flaking chrome.
    I also started attacking the surface rusted panels (ie the whole car) with a file, and was thoroughly impressed with how well it worked, unfortunately it wasn't a proper body file and went blunt rather quickly, so now that everything is open after the long weekend i'll be able to grab myself a proper file and really get stuck in.
    Unfortunately no photos today guys as I'm at work, but hopefully tonight when i get home i can upload them.
    My next plans are to keep filing the body, and also to take the drums off and send them to be re-conditioned. i also bought some longer wheel studs to put in so that i can fit some regular gmh wheels, the mis-matched bananas that are on there now are just not gonna cut it.
    I also have some cool plans for some dash mod's but for now i think ill just pull it out and clean it up, i dont wanna bite off more than i can chew, priority is getting it registered.
    Ah and a question, anyone who has one of these (or similar) how did you go about routing those massive air tubes running from the firewall to behind the headlights? mine were rusted and shitty, I prefer my engine bay without them and its not like it has aircon, if i need fresh air i can just open a window i recon. Opinions?
    Well that's everything for now i think, any comments welcome, and some progress photos tonight :D
     
  3. Bruce A Lyke
    Joined: Jun 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,523

    Bruce A Lyke
    Member

    looks like a good project. I look forward to the updates.
     
  4. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    thanks nomad :)
    alright so as promised here are some progress photos..

    The engine bay before i cleaned it:
    [​IMG]

    And afterwards. also after removing the rusted out air tubes/battery tray, as well as the radiator and radiator support:
    [​IMG]

    The headlining which ill soon be removing:
    [​IMG]

    Dash:
    [​IMG]

    All of the doors are basically in this condition, but theyll all be getting a retrim before registration:
    [​IMG]

    boot/back floor:
    [​IMG]

    Back:
    [​IMG]

    Oh and also the condition of the left rear wheel, one wheel stud, hence the ford snowflake wheel in the first photo haha:
    [​IMG]

    The Drivers side front fender after i rubbed through with a file:
    [​IMG]

    Annnnnnd the grill after i removed it:
    [​IMG]


    That's all the photos i have for the moment. I tried to suss out a body file today but everybody is either out of stock, on backorder, or simply not interested in my money for their goods so fuck em, i shall source one through a friend ;)
    Tonight i also set up a "molasses bath" (1 parts molasses to 10 parts water, hopefully this is the right mixture???) to try and remove some rust off some old 308 pistons that i had laying around, so if in 2 weeks time it has been successful i shall set up a bigger bath for some other parts on the chev.
    Oh the chev is also called "Helen" for those of you playing at home ;)
    ahhhh so now my plans are to clean up the front grille a little bit more, pull out the dash and tidy it up a bit, and suss out the material and foam to begin retrimming my seats.
    It gets dark early now that daylight savings are over, and i dont get home until at least 6 each night so ill be struggling to get much done during the week, maybe trimming the seats and stuff i can do inside.
    but updates should still be coming thick and fast :)
    Any comments/questions/feedback appreciated :)
     

  5. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Ordered a "speed file" and file holder today ($100 later...), HOPEFULLY it'll be in tomorrow so i can get to work on the chev on sunday, my day off :D
     
  6. Right on Ryan,

    Keep us posted.

    I know how you feel, removing surface rust and old paint isn't any fun
     
  7. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks Thommy :)

    Alright guys, sorry for the slow updates I hadn't had a single day off work until yesterday and I'm back at work again today, im writing this from work haha.
    So on my day off I went and checked out Clarke Rubber (as previously mentioned, a foam/pool/rubber/etc supply store in AUS) and got them to quote me on 4x appropriately sized pieces of foam... $138.99 each. yeah right. Foam mattresses were on sale for $59 each, ill take two of those thanks ;) (I thought i was quite clever, i wont lie haha)
    I then went to Lincraft (fabric/material supply store in AUS) and found a roll of some awesome dark red/crimson tough looking material which will go perfectly with a matte black exterior. I needed 1500mm x 12m. They had a single 1500mm x 13m roll @ $7.99 a metre, then talked them into $7 a metre if i took the lot. I'll have that thanks :D
    I also went into Officeworks and got some A3 manilla folders, (cheapest cardboard i could get for the size) to use as stencils.
    ANNNND after getting no reply after almost a week, i called the tool shop about my "speed file" and APPARENTLY it had been in since Monday and they had tried to call me... yeah I'm sure. Regardless it's at home waiting for me and ill have a bash at the fender i started previously, tonight.
    Probably wont be able to post any photos until the weekend, but watch this space, updates soon :)
     
  8. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    ALLLLLRIIIIIIIGGGGHHHHTTTT!
    update time!
    sorry guys, been working 65+ hour weeks, getting time to myself is a little tough at the moment, but i had a day off today and got stuck into the car..
    I started using the speed file on the car, progress was slow but it was working. but because the rust is so pitted it really wasnt time effective and because it was so tiring i was losing moitivation.
    I decided to go down to bunnings and buy myself some "flap discs" in various grits (40/60/80/120) for my angle grinder and got stuck into the panels with those instead. I found this to be much more effective (and much easier) and the only problem is the discs wear out quickly getting rid of the really pitted rust, so I grabbed some 60 grit sand paper sheets and took the edge off with those first, THEN the angle grinder. So i have developed a bit of a process, hand sand, angle grind (40/60/80/120). ill still use the speed file when i panel beat the panels to get out the odd high/low spots here and there, but the flap discs are definately the way to go. Thank god the other half of the car still has paint on it! Takes a whole two seconds to remove the paint down to shiny smooth metal.

    [​IMG]


    Also in between taking breaks from the sanding (and once i wore my flap discs down) i moved to the interior of the car. I undid the heater cover and also pulled out the glovebox, but I'm stumped if i cant figure out how to pull the dash out?? any help here would be appreciated!
    I also made an interesting discovery, on the glovebox cover there was a sticker with "preston motors" on it. Preston is a local suburb near me, so good to know the car is a local one!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I think i previously mentioned i set up a molasses bath for some old pistons i had laying around, heres a photo of the bucket a week after it was set up:

    [​IMG]

    and heres the new 220 litre bucket i bought today to make a SLIGHTLY larger bath:

    [​IMG]
    (not me in the photo haha)

    I stupidly forgot to take a photo of all the parts i put in the new bath, but theres quite a few bits in there i can assure you, and hopefully in a week or so ill be able to take them out and show you some shiny new parts :D
    I'm considering dipping the guards in the molasses as well, this would make removing the rust from the inside of the guards MUCH easier.

    So that's all for now i think, my next moves are to get some more flap discs and keep on keepin on with the rust removal, also to remove all the glass (ill be getting some bubble wrap from work tomorrow to wrap the glass when i remove it) and also to pull the dash out so i can clean it up!
    also the seats which I'll be reuppolstering, i made a bit of a poor choice with the material, but i should be able to get some PROPER uppolstery material at cost through a friend of a friend.
    ALSO I will not be keeping the 216, ill be replacing it with a holden 202 and manual 5-speed, as they are cheap and reliable and 12volt, and it wont be staying in long either, just for rego (sorry if i already mentioned that)

    So yeah, i think that's it. Any feedback is appreciated, it's a bit quiet in here! ;)
     
  9. CarGar
    Joined: Oct 19, 2009
    Posts: 26

    CarGar
    Member

    Ryan!

    Your steering wheel is on the wrong side!

    ;-)

    Seriously, I find it mildly interesting that the Aussie '52s apparently had real chrome grilles while the ones here in the colonies had some Korean War substitute plating (anyone know anything about that?).

    Cool build. One of my first cars was a '49 Chevy two door that lunched its fiber cam gear and I couldn't get it fixed before I went off to kolledge (sic) so had to sell it.

    Some 40 years before yours mine was in about the same shape as yours is now (thank heavens for no snow/salted roads).

    Press on, mate (if I may...)

    Cheers -- Gary

    Real joy comes not from ease or riches or from the praise of men, but from doing something worthwhile.
Sir Wilfred Grenfell
     
  10. CarGar
    Joined: Oct 19, 2009
    Posts: 26

    CarGar
    Member

    Which brings up the question, now that I think of it, do RHD trannies have the shift levers on the right hand side? Can't imagine how they wouldn't, but then, my ignorance of 'wrong-hand' drive is boundless.

    I suspect this question, along with the Korean War plating one, has been addressed before. My apologies for not researching, but thanks for answering (if any).

    Best -- Gary

    The day is committed to error and floundering; success and achievement are matters of long range.-- Goethe
     
  11. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Hi Gary,

    Trust me when i say my war-era chrome is just as shit as yours haha, at least on the bumpers, thats for sure.

    as far as the tranny goes, the column shift is on the left of the steering wheel, and on the box itself the linkages are on the right. seems normal to us aussies ;) haha.

    shame you had to sell yours. i always talk of selling this for a 1970 dodge challenger when im done, truth is i know ill put too much time and effort in to ever sell it haha.
     
  12. Ryan,

    Keep at it, mine is kicking my ass.

    I'm using the 3m stripper wheels in a 500rpm drill to remove most of the rust, then a DA. I hope to look back upon this time and not remember anything LOL

    As far as the dash is concerened (assuming it's the same as ours)

    The "chevrolet" has little flat speed nuts on a few posts fom the back side.

    The chrome horizontal strip has a few nuts, and some spring pins holding it on (make sure to get the nuts first)

    The gauge has 2 nuts on the chrome strip, and 2 of the switches holding it on.

    uh that should be it.
     
  13. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    The wheel isn't on the wrong side, he's from "down Under" so the car is upside down, therefore it's on the right side. Or the left side. No, wait, it's.....where's my medication????
     
  14. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Thommy,

    first let me say i just had a quick gander at your thread about the chop, and that is one wicked chop!! haha. i think ill have mine slighty higher than yours, being a 4-door. but thats a good look you have going on.
    also, your wheels, have they got spacers? how to you get them to clear your steering arms? sorry if you have that info on the thread, ill have a better read through it tomorrow (its 12:10 am here ;))
    i would HIGHLY recommend the flap wheels on an angle grinder, good chance you might burn your drill out also doing it your current way? just a thought.
    I also hope to not remember much of this time though haha, a good tip is have a few beers and favourite tunes handy to help you ignore the monotony (maybe not TOO many beers while using the angle grinder/drill though haha)
    Thanks for the info on the dash, my next day off isnt for another 6 days, and im putting a sound system in my other car on my nights after work (stupid young kid thing to do, i know) but ill keep updating and let you know how i go!
     
  15. CarGar
    Joined: Oct 19, 2009
    Posts: 26

    CarGar
    Member

    Hi Ryan, and Thommy!

    Makes sense that GM could engineer a right hand shift fork arrangement along with right hand steering gear etc. Nothing to see here, move along...

    Thommyknocker: 500 rpm? Seriously? My experience with those stripping wheels (abrasive coated 'horse hair' disks?) is that while they're effective, the higher the speed, the better. Just my experience. Whatever works. Peace.

    Cheers -- Gary

    "A man of genius makes no mistakes. His errors are volitional and are the portals of discovery."* -- *James Joyce
     
  16. Thanks for the kind words Ryan, and your very welcome.
    for the wheels and such. Mine has a 70's camaro subframe, so I matched it's width with a rear axle (70's cadi). The wheels are 15 by 6" S-10 4x4s with a 3/8" spacer to clear the ball joints. Not perfect, but close enough.

    Yup 500rpm, cast aluminum "mighy" Thor drill with the sponge like disks.
    That drill will run for days, and twist your arm off, without getting warm.
    I tried a different drill at 1k rpm, but it wore through the disk faster, spinning chunks off. and less damaging to the good metal than a flapper disk.

    Meh, whatever gets the rust off right. I'm going back over it with a DA to even it out.
     
  17. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Ah i see thommy, well i have some wheel spacers handy off a hq commodore and ill also be putting in some longer wheel studs, the cheapest/simplest solution at this point in time. Discs are on the cards for the future though...
    Sadly i have nothing to report at the moment, progress has been slow due to the excessive hours that i have been working, and my only day off it rained alllllllll day (my small garage requires one car to be wheeled out while i work on the other and the ute is bare metal so exposing that to the elements isnt really an option) but the parts appear to be doing alright in the molasses and i may even take those out tonight depending on the progress, ill try and post an update sometime soon.
     
  18. wizzard23
    Joined: Dec 12, 2009
    Posts: 733

    wizzard23
    Member

    As for pulling the dash out , the one in our '50 was welded in from the factory.
     
  19. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    thanks wizzard, i had thought it might be, i havent had a chance to even open the garage since my previous posts to have a better look, but yeah im suspecting mine is also welded in. I shall let you know :)
     
  20. FIFTY2
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 340

    FIFTY2
    Member

    My 52 was welded in, just cut mine out with a cut off wheel.
     
  21. atomickustom
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 3,409

    atomickustom
    Member

    Yup, the dashes are welded in. You can cut it out and weld it back in if you really want to, but I personally leave them in place. Once the glass and trim are out of the car they're pretty accessible.
     
  22. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN

    Looking GREAT so far...keep it up! I haven't tried the flapper sanding discs, they've got them at Lowe's, I'll have to give it a whirl on the body panels. I've been using brass wire wheels, coarse and fine. Up to now I've only been doing wheel wells, firewalls, and frame parts, but it works really well to get in the tight spaces. The bristles tend to break off and embed themselves in your clothes and skin, so WATCH OUT!!! I can usually get through 2 or 3 panels before having to swap out.

    Wish my sheet metal looked at good as yours!!!
     
  23. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    I think I'll try and leave it in if at all possible. i have a pretty good idea for a stealthy install for a headunit into the dash but I'm not giving away my secrets just yet, youll have to stay posted haha.
    and thanks poboyross, the flapper disks are good but like thommy said they do take away some of the good metal, it is pretty necessary for me though as i have some seriously pitted rust in some spots, but i use the flapper discs as minimally as possible, trying to do as much as i can by hand. Takes longer but the reward is worth the effort.
    Good news anyways, I have Saturday off work so ill be sinking a good 12 hours into her then. Stay tuned!

    Sorry just on those wire wheels, i do find them to be quite useful on the painted areas but all they did was polish up the rust, not remove it at all. I did all the interior floor with them, which i think i previously mentioned, but ill be getting back in there with probably some 80/120 grit flapper disks to really clean it up and seal it. Probably be sealing with Por15. anyone with any comments to make about the effectiveness of Por 15?
     
  24. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Goooooood news! The molasses bath appears to be working. I dont get home from work until its dark every night, but i had a quick squiz at a couple of parts in the bath and they are well and truly rust free. First thing tomorrow Ill be busting them out and hitting them with the high pressure hose. PHOTOS SOON!
     
  25. l0wride
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 5

    l0wride
    Member

    any progress???
     
  26. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Yes sorry for the delay.
    Alright.
    So, like a sucker, i went into work on saturday but managed to finish early and go home and sink some hours into the chev.
    I picked up some more of the flapper disks (40/60) grit and also a wire wheel for the passenger side of the car (which is still mostly in paint)
    I got to work with the angle grinder on the rest of the front right fender/bonnet, and enlisted the help of a mate to get to work with the wire wheel on the other side.
    Flapper disks were working well but my mate got fairly frustrated with the wire wheel which wasnt working too well on the really good areas of paint. So we went back off to bunnings to get some various grit sandpaper and for a paint removal wheel (an appropriate name for them escapes me) anyway, found these big chunky wheels that said theyd do the job, and headed off home.
    Turns out they kick ass at not only removing paint but rust also (possibly what you were using Thommy?), so we quickly raced back for a couple more and one for the angle grinder and got stuck in.
    Stripped the whole bonnet, both front fenders and also the sill under the bonnet. Basically the whole front end thats exposed (obviously not the inside). Unfortunately it got dark (and after a good solid 6-7 hours of grinding the neighbours werent impressed), so we packed it in. I also had a 21st to go to that i was already late for haha.
    I only have this photo to upload which doesnt do it justice due it being dark when we stopped, but i have tuesday off work and I do promise some serious progress to show.

    [​IMG]

    A paragraph and the previous photos I've uploaded dont really show the extent of the rust, but let me say im lucky its such thick metal or some of the pitted parts would definately be wafer thin by now.
    So in between rust removal duties i removed the parts from the molasses bath, which isnt the most enjoyable task haha my arms still smell like molasses, and i pressure-hosed them all. I was very happy with how they came up, especially the teeth from the grill and the bumpers, obviously there is evident pitt damage from the rust but nothing some sandpaper and elbow grease wont fix.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The bumper piece in the photo there had the paint/rust removal wheel gone over it. It's seriously amazing to watch it work haha.

    UNFORTUNATELY though, the badge off the front of the bonnet. I dunno what the hell the general in all his wisdom decided to cast that in, but it literally begun to wash away with the pressure hose. Can anyone offer any info on this? or how much/likely i am to find, a replacement?
    Anyway, put some parts back into the bath after a hose down to get the final bits of rust off, then ill be swapping them over for some more rusty bits on tuesday.
    I also picked up some jack stands and a new jack (there goes my paycheck) so i can alternate in between body work and cleaning the underside. I know i should focus on one area at a time but i need to mix it up sometimes.
    So my plans from here are:

    - Tidy up the bonnet/guards (yes they are rust free but another hour or so with those wheels will make it back to new shiny metal)

    - Prep wash/primer

    - keep working my way down the body clearing off all that surface rust

    Its like slowwwwwwly unwrapping a birthday present haha.
    Can anyone offer any info on that Por 15 stuff? or a better alternative? i was looking at using that definately for my floors at the very least. I'm also scouring ebay in my spare time for a holden 202 (pre pollution) with, ideally, a 5 speed manual. They are of course something i can source seperately, perhaps someone from Australia on here would be interested in selling me either or both of those?
    Also with the photo uploads, Ive been using a website (tinypic) to put them into the right format, would i be better off "attaching" them through this, will the dissapear after a certain time? Ive viewed some older threads with the pictures not there and a message saying they are unavailable.
    I think thats everything for now.
    Im very very pleased with the progress though. :D
    More updates and photos to come on Tuesday, stay posted!
     
  27. poboyross
    Joined: Apr 29, 2009
    Posts: 2,142

    poboyross
    Member
    from West TN

    Maybe you're thinking of a different wire wheel? These are the type that I use, from Tractor Supply. They're soft enough and don't tear away metal, only paint and rust. It actually buffs the metal slick as glass if you use the fine one:

    [​IMG]

    These are the ones I DO NOT use....it will tear the sh*t out of the metal:

    [​IMG]
     
  28. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Ahh ok poboyross, i see what you mean now.
    Compared to your first photo, the wire wheels i was using had considerably less bulk of wire on them, perhaps i should look into those as well. Do they have a grading system, similar to "grit" on sandpaper? Ill need some tough shit to remove the surface rust off the bottom of the car. Ill upload some photos of that tomorrow also. Im pretty lucky in that area, not too much deep rust to be seen, although Im sure ill run into some roadblocks under there.
    All i can say to that second photo is "lol", i would love to see someone use one of those by accident. That wheel looks like it has a second job in its spare time, scaring small children, just looking at it is scary haha.
     
  29. Ryan272
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 163

    Ryan272
    Member
    from Australia

    Here are those photo's I promised.
    Weather managed to hold off today, and although it looks pretty similar to the photo i posted previously, She had a good 9 hours of sanding/rust removal put into her today. The bonnet and guards are almost ready for a final hand sand and primer.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Check out that shiny metal!

    Ill upload a photo of a before and after of the wheels ive been using, i really get my $29.95 out of them haha. So far ive used two of the drill ones, and one angle grinder one. ill be sticking to the drill ones from now on.
    So ill just be keepin on with the rust removal, might try and get out there some nights and do some work that doesnt require power tools and disturbing the neighbours. Its a bit hard though coz I have to wheel my old mans ute project out everytime i wanna work on her:

    [​IMG]

    Gotta do what ya gotta do!
    Funny though, i had my neighbour come around today for a squiz as he showed a bit of interest when he saw me bring it home on the tray, he was talking to me for quite some time, telling me about all the chevs hed owned through the years, from 1929+ and even went and brought a service manual out to show me that hes had for 60+ years relating to '29-'50 chevys. (i think 29 is right? my knowledge doesnt stretch quite that far back)
    So yeah, just felt pretty chuffed the bit of interest it created for him, hes obviously getting on in years now, i promised him a drive when shes ready ;) haha.
    But anyways thats where I'm up to now.
    More progress as it happens, hopefully thatll be soon!!
     
  30. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,487

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Actually i use both of'em, and theyre 2 pieces that i always have on my drill press bits drawer, or w/ the angle grinder disks.
    It all depends what kinda work you doin and what kind of material youre workin on.
    I use the thin wire wheel mainly for polishing harware like bolts and stuff like that, or for removing superficial rust from small or delicate areas, and the bad ass one to erase superficial rust or paint from the steel i get from the recycling yard, mostly thick stuff like 4er plate or similar, its also perfect for cleanin surfaces b4 weldin.
    I never used it on a car cause its very aggressive but i can see where it can be used. They sure both make a diffrence in time and quality of work.
    Very important note:
    ALWAYS USE EYE PROTECTION!!!!! Especially w/ the thick wire one
    Eventually as friction works'em off the wires will fly away from the wheel and will stick into your arms and legs, its irritating more than painful, but imagine one of those wires stikin into your eye! Now that would be painful, and a risk not worth taking!

    Anyway, congrats for the work, its pretty obvious youre driven by passion and enthusiasm.
    Not really thread related, but, may i ask whats your dad UTE project? and whats that body sittin next to your chevy? Thanx, Nick.
     

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