Ok i have read a few threads on doing this but alot of guys say they need new springs? is that theres are old and easy to break or do need them just for the underslung frame? I have a 53 f100 and want it slamed but fund are low a nd i need to get it done this year, so i thought this would work. just flip the frame and springs and keep the axles where they are at right, easy right or am i missing some thing?
If you're talking about flipping the axle (mounting it on top of the springs), then you need to C notch the frame and a lot of other "little stuff". If you're gonna flip your frame, you're on your own................but I want to see pictures. Or are you talking about relocating the spring hangers, shackles, and reversed springs? I'm kinda confused too. Larry T
You are missing a lot of things... like oil pan clearance, bed clearance, it's not that easy to just flip the frame... steering box mounts, and on and on...
You have obviously never seen a complete chassis less sheet metal to study. That is if I read this correct in that you want to roll the complete frame 180 and just bolt the Tin back in place. In trying that there won't be any place to bolt the Tin back to. Spend a little time under your truck and think about it. How would you plan to re mount the running gear? There is a reason there are dropped axles, sub frames and Mono springs. The Wizzard
well i went out and looked at it and had a buddy come over that has built trucks that have been in alot of magz and we went through it and 20.00 later we now have the backed dropped 4 inches with new shackles we made and next is to c notch the frame and flip the rear axle on top of the springs, i have the front dropped 4 inchs already by mono leafs but still want to lower more but ill wait to see it with the body back on the frame.. i was going to flip the frame and put the body mounts right side up along with everything Elsa and the stearing box is just 3 bolts and a big hold for the are to come through but thats out the window now. but know i need to find a radiator that will fit under the line you would draw from fender to fender. maybe one out of a mustang?
should have went with flipping the axle on top of the springs BEFORE shackle mods as i beleive on these trucks 4-6" is the range of drop from flipping. if you are within a coupla inches of where you want to be reversed eyes may be a better bet for ya....ken....
Here is my personal Truck. It may not be as low as you want to go but I'm a little different than most. (I think that's OK) My running board is 6" off the ground at front corner and 7" at the rear 29.5" tall tire. Axle under the stock spring and stock shackle. I just moved the hangers up on the frame. Rear mount required notching the frame. I'm running a 57-62 F-100 9" rear axle 3" tube and it had 1 7/8" between frame and housing, I notched the frame 2 1/2". Just basic Fab 101, no big deal. I think you made a good choice in what you did. Good luck with your project. The Wizzard
Theres nothing with a sport rake look it looks good, i kinda want a lead sled looking truck lol, right now the rear laefs sit 3 inchs off of the bump stops so theres no way i can flip it with out a c notch but how much of a notch? what about a bolt on c notch? but im going to get pics up but ill wait till i get the cab back on.
save up do it right the first time and you will save a bunch of money and time. I used a old mustang II for parts and bought a crossmember for my 55 and i have just about spent the same amount of money than i would have if i would have just ordered a hub to hub kit from speedway. keep working at it and some day you will get that ear to ear smile the first day you drive it ....... after i bagged it....4 link rear mustang II..and what it looks like now
jd55f100 Nice truck thats cool! Well i did lower shackles and moved the rear front hangers up as far as i can. Right now the rear end is 2 inches under the bump stops, so with a flip kit and a c notch it should lower it 7 more inches. But is the bolt on notchs have that much space for that much of a drop? I havent pulled any rear leafs yet. But i just got the cab back on at 930 pm here and its still to high for me. So im thinking of body dropping it 6 inches. any thoughts on that?
Pictures, Punctuation, Paragraphs and Complete Sentences would help us understand what you are trying to do, and what you are asking for help and opinions on. It sounds like a cool project, but I am completely confused trying to comprehend what you are typing.
Not sure how low you want to go but I have had to straight my front bumper twice already. The roads where I live are terrible take that into consideration when setting up ride height. Gary
My running boards were somewhere around 12 to 14 inches off the ground stock. How much drop are you looking for? Larry T
i did a bolt in notch on mine first and it just didnt work out i wanted mine on the ground. so i replaced it with some huge c notches
Im not running the running boards and i want the bottom of the doors to be around 7 to 8 inches off the ground. The front fenders will be raised so the bottom of the fenders and the doors will be same hight. jd55f100 how tall was the bolt in c notch? how much room will it give me. I plan on body droping it any way so?
The one i used you cut out a small notch in the frame and then bolted it in its place check suicide doors if you want to go low and still be able to drive it with some kinda of ride i would bag it. but i understand when money is tight. i pieced mine together from a buch of different stuff. have thought about swaping the frame for something newer like maybe an s-10 frame or something
Your going at this the hard way I feel. You also don't seem to have a real grasp on what actually takes place. You can't just raise the fenders up. You will also need to raise the core support. That's going to look like Crap. To accomplish properly what your saying just Channel your cab 6". Leave the core support where it is. Now get ready to do a lot of work on a hood. I already did this type of project 35 years ago. It's not as finger snapping easy as you're making it sound. Slow down and think ahead of what your actually doing today. Buy a tape measure and think outloud. They both have helped me through many a confusing issue. The Wizzard
I understand and thank you for the advise. There is no hood nor a roof im pitching the front fenders 3 inchs and the core support will be a one off. But i do realize what im getting my self into and have all the tools and time building hot rod ( as far as body work). I just dont have a welder that will weld c notchs or z my frame or any thing like that. So just looking at other oppions. What about the rear frunt leaf spring hangers, i moved them up what a inch. And today at work i was thinking about flipping them and running another set of lowering shakles? Or will that just put stuff in a bind?
I'm sure you can find someone on here near to you that will weld it up for you. Make sure you have beer in the fridge, and the BBQ pit smoking helps as well...
the front of these trucks are pretty easy I went to the local spring shop had em reverse the eyes and redrill the center hole about an inch forward put a 3 inch drop axle on it and got some extended tie rod ends and an extended drag link. I also removed every other spring in the front and it sits pretty low now can barely get a peanut can under the front fender but I would rather worry about raising it after all this than it not being low enough.
This is the look im going for. bottom of door lined up with the front fender. just unbolt dog house, body drop cab and mate the fender back up, with a lil fab work on cab and fenders ofcouse.
I suppose that you could do it that way. Personally would just channel it a ton. And move both axles to the top of the springs. But what would I know. Hey I got a question for ya, now don't take this the wrong way but do you have much trouble getting the corn combed out of your hair in the morning?
Not having any welding equipment, just how do you propose to do this so called lil fab work on cab and fenders???? How are you going to get the floor back into the cab?? Have you thought about how many pieces you'll have to cut the hood into and then weld back together????
The Jalopy Journal
