I have some Burgandy Centari paint that I want to use on my 32 ford hood, grill shell and splash apron. It is a little lighter than the color I used over 30 years ago when I painted this car. Even though they are the same color code and paint manufacturer. So my question is....what color should I use to darken this paint up a little. I have some black but I suspect that brown would be better. What do you think???
o.k. couple things here. first i would do a spray out and let it dry, because straight enamels get darker as they dry. try to look at the sprayout and the car in true daylight. if that don't work, take the paint to the guy who mixed the paint, look up the formula and only add tints that are used to make up that color. reds (bugandy included) can be easily ruined by adding blacks and browns. you'd be suprised the number of different tint/ toners that go into mixing a simple color like burgandy. good luck.
matching paint can be a huge can of worms. there is no way to suggest what to add to tint the color closer to what you have without seeing it in person. Some blacks have more brown than other blacks, some browns will pull the color green and some will pull it orange. best thing you can do is take the paint you have, spray a test panel and then take the test panel, your paint, and what you need it to match to down to a good PPG jobber to match. I worked at a jobber before getting a job in a shop and can't tell you the gallons of paint that get wasted in a month doing matches and overpouring by grams. or using the wrong green to match some kind of white. or using bright yellow instead of oxide yellow... I wouldn't recommend doing this at home. there are too many variables with the toners to just pour some other mixture into it. Just make sure you start by spraying a test panel so you know exactly what you have and how it will look after you spray it. jon
If you're desparate to use the paint you have, you could do a fade job. (1) Scuff the whole front clip. (2) Paint the front edge of the clip with the full color mix. (3) Mix 50/50 clear into the paint and fog it from the front to halfway back on the front clip. (4) Mix 50/50 clear into what's left of your paint again and spray the whole front clip. The transparency of the last two mixes will blend the color, letting some of the original color show through the coat toward the rear of the clip. If the hood is an entirely different color, the fade would have to blend back through the doors.
forgot to ask if was metallic. cause if it is, your never gonna panel paint it and match it. you will have to blend into the adjoining panels. but you will still want the color as close as possible, even for a blend.
I have been planning this project for over a year. I did a test spray months ago and that is how I determined that it was too light. Here in L.A., anything that is not water based, will land you in jail by the paint police. I can't find anyone who will work with me on this. I'm trying to save a few bucks by using the supplies that I have on hand. My suplier told me that his Dupont did not come in single stage water base. He could provide base/claercoat for me ONLY. I really don't want to make the switch to two stage water base but that may my only other option. This is not metalic paint. Thanks for your help.....Clay
so that means your kinda fucked and really have nothing to lose. just don't tint all the paint at once in case you go to far with it. save anything you mess up and use it for your first couple of cover coats. i don't know what you have to tint it with , but remember to only add a few drops at a time cause it can turn on you in a hurry. i'm sure the color has a little black in it, but too much black in maroon might make it muddy looking, so will brown if your not careful. you really probably need to add a dark violet and maybe a little dark blue to get it adjusted where you need it. good luck.
I think you go back to the paint supply store and get them to give you the correct tints that are in it or bring a part thats painted and have them match it, its no extra charge... just read down a lil more, water only in Cali?! ughhh. take a trip to NV
No one mentioned the proper cleaning of the old paint you are trying to match. Make sure the old paint is freshly polished and glazed before attempting any matching. Dont forget the glazing it will actually change the clarity of the color. As far as Du Pont goes if you can mix the color in BC/CC you can mix it in the Chroma One single stage , you only need to change the drier and binder . As far as tinting the color you should have the mixing formula for the color and should stay with those colors for tinting.
Most formulas are printed on the backside of the paint can label, and you're correct to only use the formula colors. Stu
Hey Clay, May I suggest you consider a complete reshoot? Reds, maroons, browns & yellows all fade badly, especially here in So Cal! They are all dirived from chemical pigments, and don't tend to hold up as well as oraganic based pigments. Too, if you mix this match from a cheap base, one that's up to half clear based by volume, you "may'' hit the match, but again, it won't hold up for long. I'd love to tell ya that a couple drops of a deep bleu, and maybe some umber would fly for a match, but truth is there many completly different tones and shades of ''Burgundy". Someone with a good eye for colour should be able to hit it, but again, how long will in last? " Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
If you try to panel paint that you'll never be happy. It will not match unless you get really lucky. You need to blend into the cowl with bc/cc but even the clear can intensify the color on the cowl and then it don't match the doors. I got a dead on match for my dads '40 and had that problem. Not noticeable to most but it bugs me enough to want to do a complete reshoot. You can still get solvent base if you know the right people though.
My advice is test paint a part and see how much its off ,If its the same mixing code ,Should be close enough .Black will darken it ,You need to check the original formula and compare it to the new formula ,Im sure someone sells measured tinting cups for mixing paint .
are you saying its the same can, or you just got some new centari.in the same same code...? cause, 30 years ago there were toners long discontinued now. that will affect newer mixes on older paint jobs i agree with autobody ed and the others, who say stay away from black and brown, stick with whats in it. chances are if its a new can, eithet the new mix , or the old one could be of target a tad. see what toners are in your color, and go withe the maroon and magentas that fade quickly out of a color. only tone a bit of paint so you can start over if neccesary and take notes so you can dupicate the correct match. black and white tend to muddy colors up and only small amounts will go in a burgundy shade. some other fyi's for ya none of the big auto paint co's have water single stage. also none have a camera for water at this time , though they claim to be working on it you can hop on the fwy and go out to palmdale and get solvent based bc/cc and have it matched pretty close to your color. clear coat systems work better for repair work than the single stage stuff in metallic colros, even on a single stage paint job you can look at a chromatic variant deck and look for a closer color, thats all the cameras can do by the way. they dont come up with any magic formulas i have variant decks as well, and aint that far away sometimes you get lucky painting a panel, sometimes you dont. worth a try to get it close my gut is that your new paint being lighter, instead of darker, is that the mixer messed up a tad on one of the toners pm or post the paint code, i can look it up tommarow and maybe give ya some pointers on what toners to add to darken it, but that, as pimp'n said is a crap shoot not seeing it in person skull
Bingo. Let them take a pic and mix it right there, I think it's called a color profit, or prophet? spelling may be wrong but you get it. LOL.
This isn't always a great way to go, though most times it works pretty well. I just did some touch up on a 34 Terra, that was bc/cc, and had it 'camera'ed' by 2 different suppliers. 3 different mixes later, it still isn't close. Wound up carefully mixing 2 of the different ones they gave me...and mixing in some red toner I had besides! Reds can be difficult!
Some good ideas here, thanks to all for your help. Skull.....My new paint is actually 5 or 6 years old. Bought when solvent paint was not outlawed by the paint police. My ppg suplier is out of business and the Dupont store has all new people so finding toners and material is not an option. I know these stores have this stuff, if they know you they will work with you. With rod run season so close I don't want to blow the car apart for a total repaint. I have decided to buy enough new ppg urethane paint to do the entire car, from an online supplier. I'll paint what I have to do with this new paint and do the rest of the car next year. That way all the paint will be from the same batch. Thanks......Clay
With some thorough masking, a whole re-shoot wouldn't be that much more work. You might have a problem matching panels even with the same can of paint if the thickness of the coats vary from one panel to the next due to how close the gun is held, etc. Especially if the panels are painted months apart.
This car is my "keeper", I have owned it 38 years so when I do repaint it I will start from metal. The color is a straight color so painting the car apart won't be a problem as with metalics, pearls and candies. I used laquer primer (30 years ago that was all that was available) so I want to strip that, replace the body seam lead and open up the cowl vent (leaded in right now). This sounds like a fun project for an old guy like me.
that should work out pretty well with a solid. i assumed you had a burgandy pearl or metallic, but a solid is much easier to match down the road you should be able to paint the car in parts and have it match pretty well. there are always some varibles waitn to bite ya when it comes to paint though lol wish ya luck skull
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