So I'm trying to decide how to set up the rear suspension and frame on my 1931 Model A V8. The way I see it I have two choices. One I can convert either the 36 or 40 rears that I have to spring over perches, and run the stock unmodified frame. The benefit I see to this is ease of construction. There won't be much fab work and it will appear fairly stock. The downside of this set up is it will most likely ride harsher and I won't be able to lower the rear as much. My second option is to lengthen and modify the frame to accept a spring behind set up. This will require significant fabrication for what gain I am not sure. except, I can get the ride height perfect and it might ride better. I am not sure frame mods really fit the style or era I am going for either. Here is the stance I would like to replicate. I believe this is lowered 2 inches in front and 3 in the rear. stock frame. 5-50x16 front, 7.00x16 rear. here is a current list of chassis parts I have" 36 front axle and bones round spindles and juice brakes. 36 rear & bones 40 rear & bones I do not have: springs front or rear. spring mounts or bolts perches shackles kingpins any input on what and where i should acquire the don't haves would be great. also I'm really just trying to bounce some ideas around. Do you guys think I can get my desired height without a z or step? Any input on the chassis would be awesome.
Do the Bishop/Tardel zee on the back of the frame. Its the time honored traditional way to get the ass end down and get rid of nose bleed... If you weld or have a friend who welds, and some spare frame boxing steel (say 0.125"), you should be able to knock it out in a couple of hours. It's not nearly as big a job as say... boxing a frame... Tack a bar or angle across the rails and mark it square and cut it with a hacksaw...Then git rid of a couple leaves and if it still ain't low enough, reverse the eyes... The hardest part is making the commitment to cut the frame into two pieces. Once you get that far, the rest is a piece of cake...
that coupe inn the picture just has a stock rear setup with an a spring. to get there, all you have to do is reverse the eyes on the main leaf and dearch the spring.
thats what i would do. makes things simpler and you dont have to do any crazy favrication. you wont be able to get it as low as you could with other things, but it all depends what look you are going for.
basically I want the car above but A 30-31 with a 3inch chop and black wall tires/35 wires. Shiny black paint too. I feel like currently everyone is trying to out fabricate each other. There is a lot of trick bracketry this and custom motor mount that.....While these skills and the cars built are amazing, I can't do that. I'm just a mechanic. I really like the feel of the early cars. they are just so right. Nothing overly done or smoothed out. Just the essentials. Even though my car is in pieces now. I'm trying to take into consideration how I would have done this if my car was only 10-15 years old at the time. I don't think I would be taking the body off to step or z it.
I had your same dilemma. Was just about to Z the model a frame I had when I ran across an original 32 frame and rear end. Sold the model A frame. Getting ready to cut out the rear subrails out of my 31 Tudor and replace with the ones to fit the rear curve of the 32 rails that Vaphead sales. Gonna start with removing leaves and reversing eyes on the rear 32 spring. If that doesn't work, will flatten the rear crossmember. Hope to have pics soon. Good luck on your decision and keep us updated!
hitchhiker. my roadster is a 40 columbia with model a spring perches scabbed on ( very crude circa 1969) no z in frame, no reverse eye, just a few leaves missing. my coupe had weld on spring perches from p n j if i remember welded onto a 40. reverse eye, and z or step as per tardel book. if i were to do it again i would do what chris did on his roadster with the model a spring perch and partial axle tube bolted onto the axle tube destined for vehicle. fucking brilliant!!!
I just spent two hours going through his threads to find that trick you mentioned. Looks like a good way to go!
Here's my AV8 roadster. I did the frame height step like they go through in the B-T book. Its actually pretty easy. I have a Model A spring with the eyes reversed and the top three leaves cut down to 12" then placed in the bottom of the stack which moves the main leaf up, lowering the car. I'm running it on top of a 38 banjo rear end.
the only thing about switching to a model t rear spring is it is 2 inches wide where the model a is 2 and a quarter. so you just need some rubber belting say from a tire tube from a old pedal bike to fill the 8th of a inch on both sides. i have not done it yet . but that's what i was told
A style perches, T spring 1' shorter on each end, 36 diff, late 30's front shocks (arms still need heating and adjustment) I am very happy with how this all works together. Just use a very short piece 2-1/4" Model A spring on the bottom side of the 2" T spring pack to snug it up in the cross member.
well i was told on the spring clamp and then just a 3/4 washer on each side just ground down if needed, but i think i like the idea of model t leafs and the last one being the model a that way you don't have to spread the spring to put it back together
looking good why wouldn't I have to spread the spring? there is something I'm not getting. Mind you I don't have and have never seen either.
well i guess i did not read everything but for the transverse springs you need to spread the main leaf to install it. my suggestion would be to take the spring pack apart and put the main leaf on and bolt it to the shackles. then put the remaining leafs on whether they be model a or model t and then use a long bold or all thread rod to compress them back together use the u bolts to secure the spring along with the spring clamps and then CAREFULLY undo the all thread and put in the proper bolt. Tighten the Spring bolt and then undo the u bolts. place in cross member and and bolt up and your ready to roll. There are other threads on the subject of putting model t springs under a model a chassis
Why not just use the 40 rear end and sell the 36 instead of modifying it? The 36 and it's bones are worth some bucks.
I'm going to use the 36 bones. not the weak 40 bone's. Not sure which bells or center section. Which one get's used depends on which one is in good shape. I'll save the other stuff for future builds. This shit ain't getting any cheaper.
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