see the build blog at www.34Master.Tumblr.com I'm building a 1934 2 door Chevy Town Sedan and am in need of some vital information. What is the spindle position in relation to the bottom of the frame rail? I'm replacing the "knee-action" IFS with a modern design, but don't want the car to be lowered in any way. The original crossmember and suspension have already been removed--poor planing on my part--so I cant measure the loaded spindle position anymore. What is the width of the body, measured outside to outside of the body, at the back of the door opening at latch height? What is the width of the door opening, measured on the skin--not the removable jam--just above the lower hinge? I'm trying to get the body stabilized so that I can work on replacing what little wood remains with metal. I'm just a young upstart about to graduate college with an incurable lust for building, so any help is appreciated.
hay i just removed the wood from a 33 all in good shape, i just made the steel look like the wood. I could put it in a box $500+ shipping ?? 909-888-9045
This is a restomod, so lowering it is out of the question (its sacrilege, I know). Call be crazy, but I'm going to put it on factory style rims and orignal size bias ply 29" tall tires. If she sits low, we're gunna have some major clearance issues. As for the wood, no thanks. I'd rather have it done up in metal. I have a large radius tubing roller so even large radii on the body are no problem.
I have a 33 and I am doing the resto mod thing to it too. The answer to your first question is that there is a manual floating around the internet that shows step by step replacement of the dubonnet front for a straight axle. i believe it is for 37-38 chevys but the same principles apply. I am probably doing more of a resto-mod than you are - 235, 4 speed saginaw, overdrive, torque tube, juice brakes and I am going to drop the straight axle anyhow. 2" or so will really change the look of the car.
I'm trading the original torque tube for a good old Hotchkiss style. Four wheel disc powered by a hydraulic brake booster fed by the power steering pump. Ecotec fuel injected engine with a Aisin AR-5 5 speed. Basically, if it can't be seen with the hood down, its probably getting updated. The engine will be managed by a Megasquirt 2 controller rather than the original computer. It always interesting to see what direction people take their projects. Thanks for the heads up on the manual 6inarow, I'll keep an eye out.
Hey PewterRat, did you get the dimensions you needed? I've just joined forum. I've got a 1934 Chev Master Sedan 4 door. Just about to remove front end, so could take some measurements for you.
Nice to see another Town Sedan. It's what I'm currently trying to resurrect. Mine was in mangled condition (one day I'll scan the "as found" photos), and is anything but resto-mod: heavy chop, modified frame, jag IFS, 4 wdb...wish I could help with any dimensions, but most original parts, alignments, etc were gone before I dragged it home. First 2 pics in mock up, 3rd pic in high build primer
Got a new job so the car has been on hold since July of 2010. Its currently 3 hours away at a friends place since I have no place for it. At this point I think I'm just going to have to fool with it until its right. I got some frame height measurements from another member to give me a basic guideline when setting the front axle. I built a 2+" drop axle but have no idea what springs will bring things to the proper loaded ride height. Not only are the frame rails shaped different on the deluxe sedan, but the engine I'm putting in it weighs #200 less than the original. I think I will end of using relatively flat springs from Eaton and using shackles and shims to set the ride height and caster angle.
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