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engine paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by worm0163, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. pulling the engine and tranny out of my 57 f100. I'm thinking of using eastwoods cermaic engine paint. My question is has anyone used this product? And if so did you use a primer prior to paint? Eastwood's website didn't show any primer with this stuff.

    Thanks,
     
  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,979

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't see anything on the website about it requiring primer so my guess it is intended to be applied over bare metal.

    It should work ok if you use it on freshly hot tanked or otherwise stripped bare blocks, heads and tin before you go to assemble the engine. I'm not sure that I would use it on a painted engine that I had just cleaned up and wanted to repaint though.
     
  3. davis574ord
    Joined: May 21, 2009
    Posts: 785

    davis574ord
    Member

    Well i haqvent used that particular type of paint but i have painted alot of motors i pressure wash first with a good degreaser then use a red scotch brite pade and scuff it really good then i wipe it down with laquer thinner and blow it off with high air pressure and use a good self-etching primer then paint and never had any problems with the paint coming off and they have lasted a long time! Good luck! Its all in the prep work!
     
  4. I used it on my yet to be fired up 283. So far I am pleased with the result.

    Bought a quart and it took about a pint to shoot the block and pan. Paint was $50. I also bought hardener, prep, and thinner. Delivered it was $99. Looks like the price has come down a bit since I bought mine.

    As noted, there is no mention of a primer in the web site ad. Video shows direct to metal with no primer. So that is what I did

    I also ground off the casting flash and went over the block with a small fiber pad in my angle grinder. The pad softens the casting bumps and gives the surface some tooth. This does not take much time and makes a big difference in appearance.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 27, 2010

  5. krooser
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 4,584

    krooser
    Member

    POR-15 engine paint is hard to beat... a pint will do three engines with a brush...shines like Obama's ass...
     
  6. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Another nod for POR-15. Brush it on or spray it, either way it looks awesome and a kit does lots of motors with a great shine and coverage. Kit has everything you need.
    My motor I took to with a small grinder and file and leveled out all the casting seams I could get to, then roloc/scotch brite wheel to the rest. POR made it look like I smoothed the whole thing out.
     
  7. Like 574ord says, regular paint is all you need. I like old-time automotive synthetic enamel over automotive primer. Rustoleum is very good. Black stove paint is a surprisingly good material at a very friendly price and no primer needed.
     
  8. rjaustin421
    Joined: May 1, 2009
    Posts: 337

    rjaustin421
    Member

    As an engine machinist I have had the very best results using Plasti Coat not only in coverage but in durability. Whenever we had to boil a block that had been coated with Plasti Coat it always left a lot of base coat on the parts after being boiled. My preference over Seymour or any other engine enamels.
     
  9. I went the POR route too,I used the engine paint and the header paint.
    Like krooser said a pint goes a long way!


    [​IMG]

    I've never seen Obamas ass though, so I can't compare the shine!

    Not sure you'll want to use the Chevy orange in your Ford though,there are other colours available.;)
     
  10. powdercoater46
    Joined: Oct 27, 2009
    Posts: 246

    powdercoater46
    Member

    I've used POR and the Eastwood ceramic. Really can't tell much difference.
     
  11. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I've never seen the need for special hi temp paint on my engines. The only SBC that gave me any problems after a few years was the one that I used primer on. That was over 30 years ago and I think I just used too much primer. I've used the old acrylic enamel with a hardener, spray bombs and base coat clear coat. The paint discolored on my Stude engine because of the exhaust ports extending beyond the head but a SBC doesn't have that problem.

    I've never tried the special paints but I don't believe that they will hold up on the exhaust ports on the Pontiac's, Oldsmobile's and Studebaker's or they would be selling it as header paint.:D To me it's a badge of honor that the truck gets driven and is not a show queen. The rest of the engine is doing just fine.
     
  12. yt boy
    Joined: Jul 23, 2009
    Posts: 47

    yt boy
    Member
    from Spring,Tx

    I used Alvin High temp on my newest build. It's base coat / clear coat spray paint. It came out real nice. I'll try to get some pictures on here soon. I'm happy with the results so far. Check it out at the website below.

    http://www.hightempenginepaint.com/
     
  13. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    i like imron it is really durable and holds up well to heat , centari is also very good never had any come off i spray a light coat of sel etching primer then the catalized automotive paint , have a 66 mustang that looks new and engine was painted in 97
     
  14. whid
    Joined: Jun 20, 2008
    Posts: 452

    whid
    Member

    another vote for POR-15 went on easy with a brush ,shines like new money.........dave
     

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