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I need Help Identifying....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mmmaxwe, Mar 15, 2010.

  1. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    Been a while since I posted. I am finally starting to get my barn find rod mechanically sound and driveable. I would like to source the parts I need to fix a few issues. I would appreciate any help and any ideas where to find either used good or new items. The sending unit is 12 volt from an olds 303, however, I cannot find a replacement. Not sure what make or year the Master Cyl's are, and I would like to find a coil replacement if possible. Would like to rebuild the steering box, however, I am not sure of the make and model...comments are more than welcome

    Thanks again,
    Mike

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  2. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Any 12V coil will work, either with an internal resister or without.
    Steering box looks familiar, can't place it from memory. I'd get rid of the chunk of a bridge the guy used for an adapter, though!
    Those cylinders look to be aluminum, are they?
     
  3. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    Thank you. The mc's are chrome plated and I do not know the year or model. I would like to find a repop or similar coil period correct. I do not know what the steering box is from and need to do so for the repair. Any thoughts?
     
  4. johnie22
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 50

    johnie22
    Member
    from so-cal

    steering box looks like a 60s vw van,if the mounting part swivels it is one.
     

  5. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    The Mcyls looks like my 56 Ford M/C which was used for several 50s Fords. I got a kit for it on ebay for peanuts. If you do rebuild the chromed cores don't forget to eliminate the residual pressure valve from the one used for the clutch

    The coil is a Mallory. I'd test it and hope that it is still OK. Is the white ballast resistor removable? It looks like it just sits over the main nipple. If it is, a generic ballast resistor can be substituted. That's a neat old coil.
     
  6. Heo
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 524

    Heo
    Member

    I think the steringbox is a 30s chevy i think but not
    sure but almost sure its not vw bus
    have the same box on my speedster projekt
     
  7. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    yup, typical Ford four bolt master cylinders
    and the coil says right on it Mallory
    if the sending unit is from a 12 volt 303 it's probably same as all or most GM 12 volts of the same era
    'don't recognize the steering box,
    not VW bus though
    any name or number on it?
     
  8. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,413

    Paul
    Editor

    what's with the switches on both master cyinders though?
     
  9. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    Not sure why he had a switch on the clutch mc. I will look for the sending unit although I could not find one at the auto parts store. Ty for the mc information. I just found one on eBay and will look to rebuild the other. Will post pics of the car later tonight
    mike
     
  10. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    Some pics of the project underway.

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  11. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,748

    stealthcruiser
    Member


    One for the brake light, and one for the clutch light..................


    Naaaa, probably still there from the application that is was robbed from, and I THINK, that is an early rendition of a banjo style, ( don't quote me), and the switch nipple, goes all the way through, and and screws into the M/C , perhaps?????
     
  12. oldchevyseller
    Joined: May 30, 2004
    Posts: 1,851

    oldchevyseller
    Member
    from mankato mn

    the reason for the switch on both master sylinders is because they are both brake master cylinders except using it for the clutch one you take the piston pressure check valve out and then you can use it for a clutch, the master cyclinder has a little check valve built onto the piston assemlby to keep some residual pressure on the brakes,

    back in the day you didnt bother to find a solid plug with the same threads to plug the cylinder, so we always just left the switch ,
     
  13. creams
    Joined: Oct 17, 2009
    Posts: 16

    creams
    Member

    your a luckey dog to have that barn find. lots of lock gitting it going. CREAMS
     
  14. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,121

    Andy
    Member

    Steering box looks like a 32-34 Ford. Might be a 32 as the arm looks more like a 32. The flange has been removed from the end of the box and those tabs welded on. Look for a B- part number on the housing.
     
  15. steering box looks like a ROSS.
     
  16. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    I just stumbled across this 50's F100 box. Anyone agree with me?

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  17. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,121

    Andy
    Member

    No, That is a 32 box. A F-100 has a one piece housing and a large half splined output with no threads on the end. Your box(a 32) is the same as pictured except the flange was cut off and tabs welded on.
     
  18. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    Hello,

    I am not sure which tabs you are referring to. Seems to me everything is cast except for the spacer used to mount to the frame.

    I have obtained the numbers and a few close up pics to help. I did not find any other numbers than what is shown.

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    I have also provided the old and new Slave Cyl for comparison. Need to modify by removing the large mounting tab.

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  19. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member


    Thank you for the info. I could not find the check valve you were talking about. Do I need to modify the piston or is there something that needs to be removed from the piston assembly?
    Thought are appreciated,
    Mike
     
  20. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

    Try Mike Casella,at Then and Now Automotive. He has an amazing assortment of old parts. Fixed me up with all my '29 Graham Paige needs.
     
  21. Babyearl
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 610

    Babyearl
    Member

    If you are talking about the residule check valve it is on the piston return spring on the end that seats in the bottom of the m/c bore.
     
  22. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,121

    Andy
    Member

    I found out what the steering box is from.
    It is from a John Deere farm tractor. I was out at a shop and one was being worked on. There it was in all it's glory. I can get the exact model if you like. It looked identical to a 32-34 box except the mounting.
     
  23. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member


    Put up a pic of the guts of the master cyls. Someone here will ID the valve. I am not up on the Ford MC, but am wondering if the valve is attached to the front end of the long spring in there.


    Wow what a barn find...(I am an Olds nut). I love all the stuff mounted on the firewall instead of hidden.



    EDIT: I type too slow, Baby earl is faster :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2010
  24. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    I would really appreciate this information. A picture would be greatly appreciated as well. Any information on the parts kit or the brass bushings used for the mounting flange on the frame. My bushings are worn out and I need to replace to tighten up the steering.
    M



     
  25. mmmaxwe
    Joined: Apr 20, 2007
    Posts: 57

    mmmaxwe
    Member

    Take a look at this pic of a rebuild kit for the MC. Do I need to remove the black rubber item from the end of the spring or the small bronze colored item with the small holes?

    [​IMG]
     
  26. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Won't hurt to remove both but the bronze colored bit is the important part to remove.
     

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