How can I keep sanded bare metal from rusting?

LOL , and it took 11 posts for someone to say that . As soon as i read the thread title i thought ...hmm paint ? Is this a trick

 

how about linseed oil? I don't know if it would work and how good or bad it would be.
linseed oil is the resin base in old style paints for wood or metal. all those old advertisements like "see rock city" were done in the model t days with a mixture of carbon black and linseed oil.
I never tried it... I'm just being that "here taste this milk, is it bad" guy
Or maybe i'm being more of the "someone mash their brakes and tell me if the roads Icy" guy...
all I can say is it's an Idea, good or bad one, I don't know.

 

HITMFingH can there be two pages of opinions on this claped out trend.

 

for the love of god dont use wd40 unless you want a lifetime ratrod.

Metalready from the makers of por15 would be my best suggestion [sounds like you wanted to keep it looking bare metal for the time being]

 

true that...wd40 and amour all are 2 things you dont want around anything you are planning on painting

skull

 

My thoughts entirely, sounds like a recipe for 'fisheyes'........

 

do yourself a favor and dont spray it with wd40 cause it is a mother fucker to get rid of once you want to paint it, every couple of weeks just hit it with a red scotch brite pad to knock off the surface rust and you will be fine dont spray anything on it trust me!

 

Id say, hit it with a good quality etch primer. And the color of primer u like over that. Ull be half way done and it will look cool.

 

Oh and ditto on the fisheyes. anything u miss will ruin that paint u worked so hard to get nice. Im pretty sure theres silicone in wd40, which is something that causes fisheyes.

 

Regular primer will absorb moisture and the metal will rust. WD-40 will prevent paint from sticking and staying on. Primer and paint or an epoxy primer will prevent new rust from forming. Also, storing the pieces in a DRY shop or building will help.

 

Hair spray!

 

Evapo Rust. O'reilys and Harbor freight carrys it for around $20.00 a gallon. Wipe the metal down with it. Not only does it get rid of rust it protects the steel. My 2c

 

lanotec.

 

Gibbs is what I use.

 

Flood Penetrol

 

4 year old thread, car is probably all rusted to shit by now.

 

Yep old thread - but still valuable info for anyone with exposed metal.
Check this bare metal A, polished to a gloss; waxed too, I'll bet. That's one way to deter rust!

 

looks chromed.
-Pat

 

LPS-3 will protect the fenders for years, but I don't know if you will ever get it off so you can paint.

 

Has past it's time LOL.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/bare-metal-look-run-its-course.932807/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/bare-metal-look-run-its-course.932808/

 

Just a rag with clean machine oil.

 

You need to apply either WD-40 or something a little heaver to protect the petal from the air.

Air and what's in it also is what kills you paint brushes and other things around your home such as outside lights and stuff like that. I had an old weather vane that the air was just killing slowly until I wipe a light coat of wheel bearing grease on it and that stopped all the rusting problems.

Years ago I started laying all of my lettering quills and pinstripping brushes in a plastic tupperware container filled with mineral spirits and when it time to use them I simply remove them and wipe them off and they are ready to go.

I have the exact same brushes I had 15 years ago and they are as good as new.

Try it for yourself because it works.

Jimbo

 

we use mar hyde phosphoric acid convertor on baremetal that shits around the shop for any long time , I have a roll bar I bent from 1020 A513 back in 2003 that still has the thin white coating on it and no rust and it sits in my garage which sweats when the weather changes

 

Gibbs, and no paint problems whatsoever if prepped properly.

 

Paint works real well. Auto manufacturers have been using it for years.
Hell even corvettes and the ultra light MOPARs with the aluminum fenders had paint on them.

 

I bought a car not realizing that the guy spray painted it in rhino truck bed liner. I'm slowly using a heat gun to scrap it off by heating it up so hot it's stripping the paint from under it. It's going to take me month of long days. I've tried a wire brush with a drill but it barely does anything to it. I know some oils are used to keep metal from rusting but I'm assuming there would need to be something to remove the oil after when it's finally ready to prim and paint. It seems like I'm going to be constantly having to prime over some of the liner only to have to heat it to get to the liner underneath while continuing to strip it. I'd rather put something simple I can see the bare metal that doesn't become something I need to remove everytime I start in it again because I don't knowhere I left off. If there was a primer that was like a clear coat then I'd use it but I Really do t want to have to go over it over and over and over parts then go over the entire thing to get the primer off to get to bare metal after it's finally done so I can finish taking out any bends in it. Ura an opel GT that is know for rusting out. I don't want to keep removing little out of metal with a wire brush Everytime.

There must be a way I can protect it the metal by simply wiping something on it. If I must I will use primer but it will really piss me off in the end. I'm doing it outside on the driveway of the coach house I'm renting. I don't have rooks, fancy compressor and other expensive things that are way too heavy for a 5'1 85 lbs woman. I really would a easy way to protect it while I work. It raina alot in Vancouver bc Canada. I'm already looking at removing the floor pans to advise in new ones so I don't need to weld. Again my landlord would freak if he saw sparks and smoke coming from my car. He is already unhappy with the rubber smell from the liner with the heat gun.

Please give me some advise other then something that will take alot to remove after the removal of the liner.

Ok sorry. Not happy

 

Gibb's oil is my go to for stuff like this.

 

I wonder how the car looks now 12 years later with WD40 sprayed all over it?

 

Gibbs, it works and I had no issues with paint afterwards

 

Our local body/paint shop owner lets every employee know that they will be fired on the spot if they ever bring a can of WD40 into his shop.

I'd use Gibbs.