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My Tech Week contribution-Cutting coils

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bent, Mar 3, 2010.

  1. Bent
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Bent
    Member
    from Canada

    I have no expectations of winning a damn thing but I continually see threads about how to or how much to cut coils.
    I see lots of responses like
    "cut 1 rung and it'll be perfect" Really? Will it? Maybe but more than likely the poster got lucky and you will not.
    or
    "cut a bit at a time 'til it sits where you want"
    Yep, that'll work but it's a pain in the ass and while I don't consider myself lazy I'd rather not pull the front end apart 2, 3, 6 times to get it right.
    Here's my method and some pics of mostly OT cars I've done this on in recent history.

    A little simple math can be your friend. In most cases most double a arm front ends have the coils about half way between the pivot point and the wheel giving you a 2:1 ratio on what you cut from the spring. What that means is that whatever linear height you remove from the spring will be double at the wheel. So if you cut 1" of spring (from the non flat portion) the car will drop 2". I've done my last 4 cars (64 LeSabre, 66 Catalina, 67 Riviera, and 62 Montery) the same way and it's been spot on first time every time.

    [​IMG]

    What to do out back? If the spring is directly on the axle out back then the ratio is 1:1 so 1" of spring will drop it 1"
    Good luck and have fun!
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  2. Bryan & Sarah
    Joined: Jan 18, 2010
    Posts: 83

    Bryan & Sarah
    Member

    Makes sense. When we pulled my old truck apart, we had one loop in one coil already broke so we just matched the other side and got the desired effect without guessing. Like you said, just lucky.
     
  3. CJ Steak
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,377

    CJ Steak
    Member
    from Texas

    Good tip Mike! When I get around to fixing up my wife's Rambler, I'll be using this tip.
     
  4. OldCrow
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 134

    OldCrow
    Member

    emmm. well it's not quite linear because as you cut more spring off you continually raise the spring rate so it has less and less effect.

    OC
     

  5. Bent
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Bent
    Member
    from Canada

    You are absolutely right but I omitted mentioning it because from my experience the rising rate of the cut spring is relatively minimal and has little effect.
     
  6. henryj429
    Joined: Jan 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,068

    henryj429
    Member

    More math for ya -

    In the right hand pic, to get exactly a 1" rise on the lower control arm, the spring needs to be cut by 1 divided by the cosine of the angle of the spring from vertical.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2010
  7. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    Yep, and unless you have another car you drive to compare it to, you'll never feel it.:cool:
     
  8. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,740

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Thanks for the post.Nice cars.Hard to argue with results.
     
  9. fitzee
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,862

    fitzee
    Member

    This is interesting.The front is easy to figure out but on the rear if your car has the spring located on the lower control arm how does this work?On a 59 Chevy this is how the rear spring is mounted.

    Also on the 59 the spring will only sit one way on upper and lower pots.So you would have to remove one coil to have it so the spring will sit right.
     
  10. jasone
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 431

    jasone
    Member

    Helpful...I was thinking of going a bit lower with my front end and this thread couldn't have been timed any better.
     
  11. Bent
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Bent
    Member
    from Canada

    Well the same math applies but like you mention the spring mounting style will dictate what you can do. I'd do the back first then that will tell you how much to do the front to get the desired stance.
     
  12. fitzee
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,862

    fitzee
    Member

    So on the rear do you measure from the center line of the rear axle to the center of the spring?
     
  13. Bent
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 190

    Bent
    Member
    from Canada

    You would measure from the centerline of the front control arm pivot to the centerline of the rear axle. We'll call this A.
    You would then measure from the centerline of the front control arm pivot to the centerline of the spring. We'll call this B
    You then divide the first measurement by the second measurement to get the drop ratio.
    Here's a couple of examples with some nice simple measurements:
    -If A=3' and B=1.5' (so the spring is half way between the front pivot and the axle center line) you would get 3/1.5=2. So cut 1" of spring and get 2" of drop.
    -If the spring were further forward..say 1' from the front pivot the numbers would now be A=3' and B=1' you would get 3/1=3. So cut 1" of spring and get 3" of drop.

    So for your deal where you have to cut 1 full coil at a time you won't be able to control the amount of drop but you will be able to figure out approx. how much drop you'll get from each coil.

    I'll post up a pic of the rear scenario when I get to a computer with a decent graphics program. I can't handle trying to do stuff in MS Paint.

    Hope this helps.
     
  14. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,487

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    This can also be applied if youre swapping coils for bags, to calculate inflated heights
    and deflated height by comparing the coil lenght when the coil is still in place w/out having to go mad mocking all up.
    This way you'll know already in what position you want your bags mounted to achieve maximum and minimum desired heights.
    Hope i made sense! :D
    Anyway, thanx Mike.
     
  15. erock805
    Joined: Jul 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,243

    erock805
    Member

    Good info on this post...thank you!
     

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