I've bought a '57 rear end to install on an early Chevy and need to replace the pinion SEAL. That sucker is on there. How do I loosen that thing without turning everything else? There's gotta be a way to get that flippin' thing off of there. Also how tight (torque) is that on there? I've got no wheels or tires on it... it's just sitting on the shop floor. I'm sure there's an obvious answer, but I can't seem to come up with it. thx.....
1/2" drive, air impact driver will do it. They should be torqued somewhere between 180-200 ft/lbs. Larry T
24' pipewrench with the jaws on the flat sides of the yoke with the handle wedged against the ground and and impact on the nut would be the way id try it.
How about a 8 3/4 mopar 3rd member? I need to disassemble one here pretty quick and was wondering the same thing?
What are you doing,replacing seal?if not leaking why are you wanting to change nut?whatever the reason a 1/2 impact will take it off.
The rears that have removable pumpkins can put the yoke in a vise and use a breaker bar and a piece of pipe if necessary. A impact gun will do it also if you have a good one with some air supply behind it.
Resist the urge to jam the ring and pinion with anything while removing the nut. Very hard on bearings. Make a tool to bolt into the four Ujoint bolt holes is the best way. Mine is about 2 feet long to help prevent it jumping around while running the impact. A pipe wrench will work but is not the best solution as it will work loose and makes stress risers in the yoke. Might want to do a research on RandRing the pinion yoke before taking the nut off. There is more involved that just screwing it off and on.
tap it lefty with a chisel... just don't tighten the new one like this. bone's 4-hole tool is the way to go but if you can manage that on your own, you wouldn't be here asking
If the pinion pre-load is set up with a crush sleeve be careful when you tighten the nut back up. To tight and it will smoke the pinion bearings...........Dennis
Backing the nut off I just grab the yoke with my hand and use a half inch impact gun. going back on will be a whole different story, but you could use channel locks to hold it if you choose, just make sure you hang on to the yoke. I also have a bar with a flange on it drilled with slotted holes to hold the yoke when tightening
Never use a crush sleeve over. I have done it but that was in a bad situation only. The right way is to take it apart and inspect everything and install a new crush sleeve,front seal and pinion nut at the minimum. Tighten crush sleeve to proper bearing preload/drag. Check manual for proper specs on bearing preload.
1/2 impact is more then enough. also mark the nut to pinion shaft relation before you remove the nut. that way when you tighten it back up line the marks up and go a 1/16 of an inch pass the mark. done hundreds of pinion seals this way. never had a rear end problem. also put rtv on the splines they can leak there. the crush sleeve should be replace. but unless you have a dial indicator tourqe wrench you wont be able to set the preload. plus most of the time turing torque in measured with the axles and carrier out of the rear end.
make the proper tool as others have said.i have ones made for the 9",60 dana, 12bolt chevy and others. if you are replacing the seal. witness mark the nut and the pinion. then when you put it back together just line up the marks. it works i have done it many times. never lost a rear.
I did a simple replace the pinion seal job which turned into a busted up ring and pinion because of not doing it right whether is was from a old used nut or it needed a little more past the witness mark. I have built hundreds of rears of all different brands and there is only one way...the right way. You can replace the seal or nut but you will never know how much preload is really at the pinion bearings since the whole rear is still all together and you cant test it.
your right that is the "right way" but try telling a customer its going to be $1500 to replace the pinion seal in their truck. not going to happen. so we have to make it affordable. im a flat rate tech. done a ton of chevy pinion seals this way. and never had one come back.
I agree. I have only done it in a pinch. Late night, want to race Sunday. I'm sure you've been there. Dennis
Stick a big screw driver though the wheel studs on both axles. Impact is good or a very large breaker bar. Donb't know the torque off the top of my head but on a 9" Ford I always just count the threads sticking out and mark the nut to put it back in the right place.
$1500 for a pinion seal job? How much you guys get a hr? materials need for the job..pinion seal,crush collar,new nut,new gasket,brake clean,loctite and differential fluid. It should take four hrs at the most depending on the rear but four hrs would be on the extreme side.
Well heck.. That was a piece of cake! Got the nut off, marked everything as suggested here (thanks), cleaned everything up, threw in the new seal, and got everything buttoned up! Good as new! Thanks all for all your comments and suggestions. Guess I was really worried about nothing. Feels good to have that in there. Thanks again!
The Jalopy Journal
