Running both a generator AND alternator

I know it's been discussed a million times, in different ways. I don't want to convert to 12V. I don't want to use a power converter. I don't want to run an alternator off my driveshaft. But I do want some tunes.

For my 53 Desoto I'm wanting to run an alternator inline with one of my belts, to a small battery. I need some help figuring out which alternator to get and what battery that would be powerful enough to run a stereo system off, plus maybe an electric fan/heater. Just any old alternator I can get for $20? And what about battery size? I know the Harley guys blaring their music must be running a motorcycle battery. I was thinking of mounting the battery in the dashboard. And then to a stereo system. Thoughts?

 

Nice engine there! If your going to "ruin the look" with an alternator AND a gen, ya might as well go 12 volts all the way.....

 

You'd need at least a 50 amp alternator with that fan, stereo and amp. Depends on how big your going.
Maybe put a deep-cycle battery in the trunk and charge it up once a week?

 

Someone makes an alternator that looks like a generator. I think it is Powermaster. You could swap to an alternator and 12 volts at the same time. No need for more bracketry or an extra battery.

 

solar panels.

 

If it's just to run a radio then there's no problem running it off of the driveshaft to charge a battery.

There's no headlights etc to drain it really quickly when you're stopped at a traffic light so all the usual problems with running a driveshaft alternator don't apply - and you can hide it.

 

Battery in the trunk would be easy, true. How many hours could I get out of that? I've considered that too. I just don't want to go to 12 volt. I like my dim headlights!

 

probably all week back and forth to work

You would'nt need a heavy cable, either.

 

maybe you colud make something like the racemate setup.http://www.racemate.com/

 

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/powergen.html

 

some kinda windmill set-up? solar panels would look funny.

 

Nuclear power.

 

you are joking about wanting dim headlights right?
if not convert to 12 volt and put resistors to the headlights
or rusted reflectors..........

 

12 volt = better coil and spark options = more power and easier start
i battled 6 volt all summer its stupid period
there is a reason why people switched
they do make jumpers to go from 6v too 12v but they take double the amps they produce so perhaps one of those set too draw like 10 amps would produce 5 amps 12v could keep a big battery up enough too run a steeeo on and off

 

DC to DC converter will fix that -- a bit pricey but lighter than a 12 volt battery
http://www.powerstream.com/dc6-12.htm

 

use to use a radio out of a kia hooked to a 12 volt for my radio at the junkyard. Would last 40 hours before getting dim

 

you want to run both six and twelve volts using two complete and separate systems?

 

Yeah, but a new Flux Capacitor would kill you! 15 years ago I converted my now antique tractor to 12 volts. Best money I ever spent-now it starts in the winter, and I can see that the lights are on. Go with the alternator in a generator, not all progress is bad.

 

For lack of a better phrase, thats a dumb idea.

 

What's dumb, and why?
Generator and alternator?
Alternator that looks like a generator?
Converting to 12 volts?
Alternator off the rear axle?
Music in the car?
Solar panels?
Wind generator?
Nuclear power?

Most suggestions were meant to be helpful, but please realize a few were meant to be tongue-in cheek. Find a better phrase, or a better idea.

 

I would just buy a big battery and mount it in the trunk, charge it up every couple days.
The only time I think it would ever be a problem is of you went on a big road trip.
The stereo in my shop is a car cd player running off a 12V battery, with two subs. It plays 10-12 hours every day for 3-4 days at a time, and once it starts flickering I just hook a trickle charger up to it.

 

If you install two six volt batteries in the trunk, you can charge them as six volts and join them at your twelve volt load, ie your radio and amp and still have them charging from your present generator. I suggest that you have a local rebuilder tweeck up the base voltage of your regulator to about 7.4 volts at idle with only the engine running. That will help your generator deliver the goods to the extra batteries. Be careful, as your system is postive ground, and you will need to obverve polarity in the sound system.

 

why not a 6 volt alternator??

 

Di-lithium crystals Captain!

How bout a motorcycle battery in the trunk and a solar battery charger/maintainer on the package tray?

 

set up two 6volt batteries in parallel like the dual batts on a diesel then build a second circuit in series to get 12 volts off the dual batts for the stereo

 

This is good, similar to running a hydraulic pump or compressor for three wheel motions and dragging tail.

 

I was thinking about it... I don't think you can have both series and parallel. the 12 volts will try to constantly feed power into the 6 volt system. They would have to be isolated by a relay and diodes and resistors or the secondary 12 volt stereo circuit would be just like when you mess up and hook jumper cables wrong. 12 volt positive connected to 6 volt positive is the same head of potential as 6 volt positive to ground.
The diodes prevent backflow, the resistors would prevent more power than the radio needed from bleeding from one system to the other and the relays would be needed to disconnect both 6v batteries from each other when not being charged or else they would discharge themselves.

a 12 volt battery IS 2 6 volt batteries in series

It would be far simpler to connect 2 6volt batteries in series connected to a 12 volt generator and tap only one batt for the 6 volt needs.
For series connection On a negative ground...
You connect the (-) post of batt 1 to ground and the (+) post of batt. 1 to the (-) post of battery 2.
The (+) of battery 2 connects to your load.
The (-) post of batt. 2 is connected ONLY to the (+) post of batt 1. It DOES NOT also connect to ground.
Only batt. A connects to ground and ONLY batt. B connects to load
the circuit voltage is additive and the amp capacity remains the same

For parallel connection all (-) posts are connected to each other and all (+) posts are connected to each other.
The amperage is additive and the circuit voltage remains the same

for positive ground you just reverse the ground and load.


in the series circuit you can either connect through load(radio etc.)
From 12v to ground for a 12v circuit
From 12v to the jumper between the two 6v batts for a 6v circuit.
Or from the same jumper to ground for another separate 6v circuit.
any cross connection between the 2 separate 6v circuits will have 12 volts and partially short out both 6v circuits depending on where you measure. It takes calculus to predict the measurements at any point when you cross circuits and that is where my education ran out of moneyI'm thinking you might have to chose one or the other 6 volt circuits because having both would make a cross connection and might push up to 12v through both 6v loads

 

This issue always blows me away, sometimes stepping away from the way it was done to something a little newer is not as bad a it seems.
I have spent a lot of time in the restored aircraft world, even the most authentic restorations didn't hold back on electricals, its all brand spankin new. Trust me when I say that the anal retentive adherence to authenticity in the war bird fraternity makes us all look like amateurs and they happily upgrade.

Man dont avoid a basic upgrade just to be traditional. Thats like bleeding to death 'cause tough guys dont use band Aid's.

Doc.

 

I saw this the other day it looks like a 6/12v battery I have never used one maybe someone else could comment on how good they are.

http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/prod011.htm

 

i agree with doc watson. just go buy a delco 10si 3wire, hook it up, and forget about the problem altogether. just my .02 cents