The Banger is dead - long live the Banger. 2010's first banger thread

that would work but all the wiring that my car had was rotted to the point that when you touched it it turned to dust!

 

Here are a couple shots of a really cool roadster we saw at El Mirage last year that featured an awesome blown banger. Sorry I don't have better pictures than these two - Terry

 

Go the HAMB O Dex and call Glenn at Rebel Wire,

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279085
http://www.rebel-wire.com/wirekits.shtml

ask for his Basic 8 wire kit..... It has all the wire you need,a pre wired fuse box , wires marked with the circuit name six inches , and a comprehensive instruction book.
Also if you get into any sort of problem Bob and Glenn are only a phone call away.
We are the NZ distributors for Rebel Wire, we have sold close to 50 in the past year and have not had one complaint.

These kits are MADE IN AMERICA with pride, 8 wire is 132.50 , If you bought 25' roll of each color wire to make your own loom you would spend far more before you even started.

 

Yeah owned by Shug and Irene Hanshard from the "So -What Speed Shop" .
up until last speed week Irene and the roadster owned a lot of the records , I think only BFMR now, Shug has a bunch of records too with a different engine.

 

whats wrong with a stock harness for about $30 ? they sell them in sections , so you dont buy what you dont need . sacramento vintage ford for one place ... steve

 

Speaking of wiring, I need some assistance fellas. I got a new wiring setup for my pickup, but im having problems attaching the cone to the bottom of the steering column. Take a look at the pic, is this light switch sticking too far up? I cant seem to get it back down? Any help is appreicated!

 

There are 5 or more different lengths of switch tube, ranging from 44 31/32" to 45 31/32" you may have the wrong one???

See http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/563 but I have seen more variations at other dealers sites .

 

looks like mine everytime i'm just a little off...turn the two tabs at the bottom of the rod to the top and bottom....not side to side. wiggle the cone piece around and it should slide into the right spot...you'll know it right when it does...that should have your long handle piece at the top (horn button / light switch) at the bottom i think....it will feel right when it all goes together...if your off there's a feeling of too much spring pressure on the cone and the bail is hard to get snapped over it and it will make the switch stick out just a little at the top like the pic. even though it feels like too much spring pressure to get the bail over the cone and it is...the bail will go on even if the tabs of the rod are not down in the switch properly.

good luck....there's a little bit of black magic involve there i think... or it could be the wrong rod like said above!

 

he is correct . the cone is indexed with a little slot & twist . when you adjust the prongs , be sure the little lock washer is holding the spring correctly . mine kept popping off .............. steve

 

It looks to me that the steering wheel was cut down at center where the light switch knob fits into. Mine is slightly higher and has a slighty rounded edge. Compare to an original wheel if possible.

 

I get most of my stuff from A&L. Great guys to deal with ask for Bob
860 693 2620. When I got my car it sat for 50 years so I redid all wiring I got every thing from Bob it looked stock but was nice and new. When I switched to 12 vote the only thing I added was a new ground wire from the frame to the engine.
later Bill

 

Have a babbit question for you-

This is the rear main from my '28 Chevrolet block... is the babbit still usable (if I chamfer the edge of the break) or not?

 

RussTee,
I have just stumbled across this and I am blown away that this has happened - that SUCKS!
Is there anything I can do to help? Perhaps run something in the magazine?
I am sorry that I didnt make the Muscle Car Madness for the display - due to what has happened with my pick up I had to sell my T and I am pissed about the whole situaution
Catch up soon mate
Greg

 

mac , the piece that broke off is a thrust part . i WOULD NOT run it . it will continue to fall off , then the crank will float front to rear ............ steve

 

Is that part of the cap thrust? I doesn't look like it to me But I can't see the pic. all that well. What are your planes for the engine?

 

Thanks for the input guys! This was the spare engine that I was going to start to rebuild/hop up, but it looked so good inside that I thought about buttoning it back up and getting it running.
However, I don't want to ruin a good engine with a bad decision, so I'll hold off until I can replace the babbit.

 

Update- So the the other day, i managed to get the cone in place and index it into the column! When I turned the switch, it felt really rough like it was not moving slowly. And, the rod was still popping up above the wheel like the pic. So, in order to get the light switch into its position, I need to wiggle the tabs on the bottom up and down and it should pop down into place? Im pretty sure this switch is correct since it was in the wheel correctly when I bought the truck. Then, somehow, it popped up when we were turning it. Not sure how that happened?

 

Stupid, FNG type question here....

Is a Model A distributor cap the same as a Model B distributor cap? Looking for a new one for my B, and don't see any in the '32-'48 Mac's catalog, but the cap in the Snyder's A catalog looks the same as my crummy old one.

Thanks! (many stupid ass questions to come).

Mike

 

may have to continue this on the "love for bangers feb thread" buy anyone ever lengthened a pitman arm or know of one that is about an inch longer than stock?

and i have other things but will wait till feb thread

and dont worry i have had to ask many a dumb seeming question.

 

Most wont to shorten the arm. But if you must I would use 2 arms.
see ya next mouth

 

Hi Greg yep was a real peeve I had lost interest in the show and did not put in as much effort as i perhaps should have it was only in the last couple of days that i had a quick ring around the display was a good cross section of early banger cars and modifieds. Thanks to all the guys who took part and brought their cars out pity the weather wasnt better. also thanks to Craig Stare for his open minded approach to this form of 'rodding' and allowing us to display i spoke briefly with Paul Grace Editor of NZ Hotrod mag he showed interest in our display and the mag has been a great support to us hopefully we may see some pics in a comming issue. It was also interesting to see the interest shown by many of New Zealands long time rodders and i may add favourable comments thanks guys these are the type of things that made it all worthwhile. also thanks to the HAMB community who have rallied round and offered help after my visit from the light fingered lowlifes interesting the feedback im getting i am currently awaiting the return of dan 4 banger from Haiti and will start replacing my stolen parts.hope to get inspired and posts some pics of the display shortly
Rusty

 

Hey is it me or is there no feb banger meet

 

Ok, I started the Feb meet.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4860171#post4860171

.

 

4 cylinder Chevys (which that cap is from), have the thrust taken on the center main

Herb Kephart

 

So Herb,

If I round/chamfer the edges of the crack, will that help?

Thanks again, Bill

 

Looks like a replacement, "police special" head. if so they were 5:22 to 1 comp.
you would have to cc it to know for sure.
If your not going to use it I am interested.

Dodge