Chevy II Build Pics

I need one of you smart Chevy II guys to help with a problem:

When I put the disk brakes on, the tire/rim rubs against the tie-rod end/spindle. The CPP ad says that you cannot have more than 3 1/2" backspace...which I guess I do. These are very common rally wheels (Corvett/Camaro) and I really want to use them. What kinds of wheels can I use now or how can I use spacers long studs to fix this?
Scott

 

'68 - '70 El Camino ralleys are 15" with 3 1/2" back spacing. Wheelkid posted a thread a few weeks back with a list of ralley wheels and #'s. The #'s are next to the valve stem hole. Hope this helps.

 

Look for 15X5 or 15X6 Rallys. Also run a low profile tire or your tires will rub against the fender when you turn the steering wheel full right or left.

 

My steelies (14 x 6 ) and tires (195/60) rub on the fender some on the passenger side. I'm thinking about using some fender washer to push out the corner of the fender. You mentioned doing something like this to me before.

 

I installed the CPP brake kit as well on my '63 convertible. I also opted for the CPP tubular upper and lower control arms. The brakes and control arms completely changed the handling characteristics of the car. Now it's like it's on rails!
I have 17" wheels on all four corners. The lip on the front wheel wells had to be rolled under to prevent the tires from rubbing when turning.
For the rear, I may install air shocks. If i get a couple of heavy weights in the backseat, the car sits too low. The air shocks will give me the option of leveling the car off with passengers in the back.
Keep up the good work!

 

This is what my car got from CPP

• CPP mini subframe kit
• 1 inch drop coils
• upper tubular control arms
• idler bearing arm conversion
• spring perches
• leaf spring bushings
• disc brakes w/ power booster
• 1 inch lowering blocks

detailed pics of the install can be seen here - CPP Mini Subframe Install

To you have any pics detailing what you did?

 

Cool cars. Just subscribed. Get a hold of wheelkid here on the Hamb. He can make you the wheels you need at a pretty good price.

 

ChevyII.........sorry I don't have any pictures handy that shows how the fender lips were rolled under. I'll try to get some this weekend. My '63 is currently at my car club getting new quarters put on. I had some small bubbles popping through on the wheel well on the quarters. I figured where there is smoke, there is fire. A guy in our club is an amazing body man. One quarter is on now and the next one gets installed on Saturday. I may end up repainting the entire car. The current white doesn't do much for me.
Yep, the sub frame kit was an easy and worthwhile install. I didn't need to change the coils.
I checked out your site........your car looks great!

 

The front edge is always the issue. If you look at brace holding the bottom edge you can adjust where the edge is by using washers as shims and longer bolts (I think at the top end ). It doesn't take much to make a big difference in tire clearance.
I've heard of guys making a slightly shorter brace but I didn't find that necessary, Don't ask me what I got for tire size but the rims are 2wd S10 14" rims covered up with hubcaps.

.

 

I was ahead of schedule for the weekend and got started on installing the motor Sunday…I got behind schedule quick though. The transmission absolutely would not mate up to the bell housing and/or motor. It was about 3/8” off from seating. After a wrestling with the transmission and bench pressing it up and down all afternoon, I finally just pulled the motor back out so that I could install the transmission on the floor. It is the same motor and trans, but the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing are all new and something seemed to be blocking the trans or pilot bearing. After a bunch of trial and error everything fit, but the bell housing needed to be loose while pushing everything together and it would fit. I then took it all back apart and re-installed the engine. The transmission bolted right it so it was time well spent.
I finished cutting a hole in the floor for the <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</st1:City>Hurst</ST1 shifter. I will pretty it up after I get the new floor hump welded in place. <O

 

Where did you find those 14x6's?

 

I had a hard time finding them. I search 2 pick-n-pulls with no luck. A guy saw a post about me looking for them and he said he knew where he could get some. He shipped them to me from new mexico I believe.

You'll have to confirm it, but I believe they're off of an s-10.

 

I finally found a set of shock extenders at Autozone for $6. Apparently the shocks I got from CPP were two inches shorter (16") than stock (18"). Easy fix once you figure it what the problem is. I thought there was something going on because of the lowered front end.
I spent the day doing all the plumbing and wiring. It really seems to eat up that day, but is my favorite part of any build. After two months of deconstruction, it is great to be going forward on every effort. The motor is in and would run, but I am going to finish up the drive train first. Tomorrow I plan to link the power to the rear end. First, I have to lower the back with 3" blocks, change the shocks and fix the brakes. When all this is finished I will just need to get the front end back together and aligned for a test drive.<O
Scott<O

 

Wow, nice build, it looks really good from here!

 

I just started a Chevy II/Novas HAMB Group. Please join if you're interested:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=470

 

Got the shocks, brake shoes, wheel cylinders and lowering kit installed today. No real problems after the brakes were finally in. I set everything in loose and it looked good so I torqued it down and trimmed the U-bolts down with the cut-off wheel. The car really sits down right and has a great stance now.
I couldn't fit the rear wheels back in without letting the air out of the tires first. These are really tall and will be replaced when I take it up to get the front end alligned. I still have to get front wheels that fit- I need 3 1/2" back space and will probably have a set made now that I know the rears fit.
Scott

 

Could you explain this for me please?
I thought the shocks have to be shorter by the amount of the lowering.
I lowered my front and used new stock-length shocks, The first major pothole I hit - bottomed out the shock and caused it to foam oil out the top.
I got the shocks replaced on warranty but got told that if the car is lowered we will not honor the warranty (Ok I lied)

 

El Gordo~<O</O
I used drop spindles to get the car down...this does not reduce travel.... If you used shorter springs, this reduces your travel and you would need shorter shocks. It is all how you get the car down. In the rear I used lowering blocks-3"-, but they do not reduce travel either, just ride height.<O</O
<O</O

Today~<O</O
Set in the new seats I harvested from the junk yard. I only had to bend the mounting holes a little with a wrench and then flatten them out. I marked the floor and will tack weld a few pieces of thin steel on the back side of the floor to reduce point stress. They fit the car great and removing the head rests makes them look like the old style buckets. When they are upholstered they should look great in there.
I also had to extend the alternator bracket a little. The new chrome valve covers were taller and the new belt was a little longer so I couldn't get it tight enough. I cut a piece of steel, shaped and welded it on- It fits fine now.<O</O
Scott

 

lookin good, I'm not diggin the seats though. a bench would be much nicer

 

I mounted the seats from the junk yard this weekend. After setting them in place and a little measuring, I marked and drilled holes. A little tweaking on the original seat brackets was necessary- Mostly flattening. Once the holes were drilled I bolted flat steel to the holes and tightened the bolts, heated the steel and used a hammer to shape the steel to the floor contour. I then pulled the steel floor brace and put it on the bottom and it was already contoured to fit. I bolted the seats in tight and then hit the braces with the torch again to help them de-stress and fit really tight. I then spot welded them in place. Now I shouldn't have a problem with a weak floor and stress cracks. You can weld the nuts on too for a factory finish and easy installation.
The spindle and caliper picture is the "after" picture of the front spindles. I had to "clearance" the spindles A LOT with the cut-off wheel to get the full turning radius because the upper control arm was hitting the spindle and it was not even close- It had to be modified. Other than that, the CPP kit was bolt in.
Scott<O</O

 

Nice build and photos. That old Muncie 3-speed is going to be the weak link if you beat on it, even a little. Butch/56sedandelivery.