The coupe ate its camshaft....

A couple of things Id like to point out.

Some old tech engines such as Gen 1 OHV's, flatheads, have a fairly soft cast iron and require a different break-in than the latest screamers.

30W NON detergent is best for getting rings to seat in 200-300 miles or so in those engines. A modern multigrade is way too slippery and the rings may never seat.

GM EOS is arguably the best assembly lube available to mere mortals.

With the combination above there should be no problem with cam break-in.

Everyone is getting into the Diesel oil act. Advance Auto carries Shell Rotella, Castrol Tection and Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 in gallons and quarts. The Rotella tech site goes as far as to recommend it in gas engines which settled an argument over on Forbarn. Some of the old assholes over there should be preserved in concrete; they are so secure in their lack of knowledge!

Id also suggest having an oil analysis done. With that many carbs there is a good chance it is severly diluted with gas. Not exactly what a cam needs.
With 8 97's you have around 1200 cfm, severe overkill on a street 390.

 

Actually, I'm only running 6 97's, and they are progressive...about 950 cfm when the go pedal's fully mashed...
I've been wondering about two things when it comes to running the Rotella T:

1. It only comes in 15W-40. I've always run 10W-30 in my Caddy mills...so what's 15W-40 going to do to my oil pressure? Do I have to worry about this oil being too thick?

2. I've been running Pennzoil 10W-30 in my '59 Cadillac for the last 270,000 miles. It's 390 was rebuilt about 250,000 miles ago. Should I switch to Rotella T in that car? Or will switching oil brands in it at this point just screw it up? I've seen people switch brands of oil in cars that were running great just to have them run like absolute shit after they changed brands....

 

Amen on the roller cam. I've never had a flat tappet fail on me, but I seen it a bunch with some of my buddies. I prefer a roller cam - they're expensive, but worth it to me.

 

I just finished reading an article in a Truck Fleet magazine I get. The gist of the article is that there are big changes coming in Truck engine emissions for 2007 and the oils to lubricate these new motors. As most of the new truck engines will be using EGR (exhaust gas recycling) methods to control emissions. These new motors will require a very different oil to combat the problem of the excessive heat created by the EGR equipment. The newly formulated oils will contain less anti-wear additives like Zinc as these additives will cause problems with catalytic converters. Most of the Execs at the major lube oil companies said that these new oils will NOT be compatible with older engines. They will continue, for awhile, to make both types of oils but will eventually phase out the old oils.

I would think that this thinking will affect not only diesel engine oils but automotive oils as well. Especially as Congress continues to tighten the emission standards.

 

There's already an endless supply of aftermarket oil substitutes, additives, and stabilizers. I'm sure there must be something out there that can raise the zinc content.

 

I just inquired about getting a roller made up for my 390. I was told that nobody makes a cam core for it, so I would have to get a custom core made up. Minimum of 5 cams to do this...at about 500 bucks a peice. Guess I'm sticking with a flat tappet....

 

I just thought I'd toss this back up to the top one more time to see if anyone had any more thoughts on my oil dilemna....

 

Searched the forum for break in procedures. I have a 331 hemi that I put a new cam and lifters in, and I have seen several utube videos that show initial startup, and the engine is idling. From my knowledge, you need to run it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes roughly, because the crank throws up oil on the cam at that speed. Does anyone know for sure the breakin procedure for a 331 hemi? Thanks, tom

 

I love reading a whole thread and then realizing it's 3 years old.

 

Yes,,it may be an old thread but it's still relevant,,,,
Also overfill the crankcase by a quart or two at start-up. That'll make sure the crank is wetting the camshaft by slinging it around.
When I start an engine for the first time I use the expensive "Royal Purple Break-in Oil".
One thing that I noticed is that the break in oil smells exactly like Rear End Grease!!
Rear end grease has extreme pressure additives,(thats the smell I'm talking about!). That's whats missing in the modern engine oil.
Imagine what the oils (not) doing in your tiller,lawn mower,etc. For that very reason I add a touch of rear end grease to all my stuff to get the additives percentage higher.We're under attack,,or rather our old American engines are.

 

Harley Davidson offers both a 10w-40 and a 20w-50 motor oil. In the H-D owners manual it recommends using diesel oil if their specific oil is not available. Regardless that Harleys have roller tappets, with the higher temperatures due to being air cooled, and temperature swings why would this not be an alternative if someone wants a lighter weight oil?

It's not a cheap oil, but still cheaper than a camshaft.

 

There is a ton of info. on the low zddp issue all over the interweb. One thing I have not seen mentioned is how the mfgs. broke in cams on new engines. Did they run them for 20 mins. with special break-in oil and additives and then change the oil and filter? I kinda think not. There has to be somebody that used to work in the engine plants that has input, but I haven't seen anything.

 

Run at least 20 minutes at 2200-2600 rpm, do not let it idle. If adjustments are needed then shut it down and then resume. Use oil labeled as 'break-in' or use Rotella / Delo 440 and add a Zddp additive.
Use a good filter (not Fram). Change oil and filter after 6 hours or so then refill with the diesel oil and zddp.


.

 

I chased this about 8 years ago with a solid Crane cam in my Camaro...went thru 2 cams. At the time, Crane (and other makers I called) didn't know what the problem was. Some of the guys I called said that Crane was notorious for having bad cam cores, but I had run several in the past with no problems. Finally said the hell with it & bought a solid roller...

 

I was talking to guys at barret/jackson. they seem to have a pretty good product. I have not tried it yet however. http://www.z-alt.com/

 

I make sure my oil has SL rating like the Comp Cam paperwork said.

 

Whew... Oldie but a Goodie..!

First I was wondering why Cadillackid had his coupe out in this weather!!!

 

Use john deere oil in my driver, figured if we buy it in 55 gallon drums for the tractors, might as well use it in my daily. No problems what so ever.

 

What the fuck is it with you guys? Here's a company that is an Alliance vendor that sells a ZDDP aditive http://www.zddplus.com/
Get with the program and join the Alliance and get both the benefit of discounts and help support this site we all enjoy so much. The discounts available will more than pay for your Alliance dues each year and you help keep this site on the internet to boot!
My current sbc build with a stout flat tappet cam will be fired up with Gibb's Racing's break in oil and later filled with Amsoil's Premium Protection synthetic, which is available in 10W-40 and 20W-50. Has a load of ZDDP in it, but isn't recommended for initial break in. Disclosure: I am an Amsoil independent dealer.
Diesel oils have had their additive package changed substantially since the '07 models came out with EGR and cat converters. Amsoil now has 2 versions of their top grade diesel oil, one for pre '07 only and one that can be used in all versions, although I still use the first version in my'03 Duramax.
I ain't too sure about the whole practice of using diesel oils in hot rod engines anyway. Diesels don't turn up rpm like a gas engine, especial;ly a modified engine. Hell, my Duramax is red lined @ 3,000, understand the Cummins used in a Dodge is even lower. Does this oil contain an anti-foaming additive sufficient for our engines? I dunno and ain't gonna find out!
Dave

 

If it was the oil it would have taken all the lobes not just one.

You had a soft lobe and/or a bad lifter. At least that is the most likely culprit.

 

scanned the thread and I didn't see anyone say anything on the bent push rod.. there is excessive pressure on that lifter. find out why. over adjusted rocker arm? coil bind? that is the key reason.. and the reason you break in a cam at 2500 rpm is because the lifters don't spin like they should at lower rpm's and they must to put the right groove on them and most cams fail from flat lobes during the first 3000 miles they do have some new lifters out now with a hole in the middle to put oil right where its needed most. hope that helps

 

CADY...well my friend i think it's the reground cam. if it were mine, i would buy a hydrolic COMP. CAM. today's cams can withstand the heavy valvespring pressure. and CADY i use to use PENZ. to, untill i tryed VALVOLINE. trust me brother it's the best. i my view...POP.

 

4 years later, come on folks, pay attention.

 

Maybe you need to "pay attention"! It has been mentioned in the recent posts that this is an old thread. But the subject is still timely and it's apparent that some of these guys haven't kept up with recent developments in the field of lubrication, have you?
Dave

 

Yep, some people seem to think if it's Diesel it's good. You have to know the ratings and check the oil you're buying.

 

Had this happen to the same engine twice. I kept a note as to which lobes and lifters i lost. Did the exact same thing again. Turned out to be bad lifter bores. So now when i do an engine i know nothing about i install the cam with sprocket no chain so i can turn it by hand. Take a lifter and dye the bottom, place in the bore, hold lifter so as it wont rotate and turn cam 1 turn, remove lifter and look at witness mark. Do this to all the bores. If its dead center no good as lifter wont rotate, (my problem) the marking should be to the back third or so of lifter.

 

Hey Guys,
Changes are on the way and might be on the shelf now. All you Shell Rotella guys should read this article. I use the stuff myself because its cheap (walmart sells it) and it WORKS...

http://www.lubereport.com/e_article000288578.cfm

Desert

 

Are you sure you didnt over tighten your rockers? Ive done this before.

 

Some good advise here. Starting a fresh motor is always a little scary and you never know how it's going to go. I've never had that problem before but whenever I start a fresh one I don't rev it and I sure don't run it up to 2500 for any length of time. That's asking for trouble I don't care what they say. Two things: I agree with chevyshack about the rocker tightening, combine that with the radical break in and boom!! At first I thought about what you said about a regrind cam...never did trust those...too many possibilities for inperfections. Be gentle with the old stuff and good luck!!!

 

Kid,

Schubeck may be making lifters for Caddys now.
That's the way to go with a flat tappet cam if you've got the dinero.