Looking for method to thread water pump heater hose

If you can't use the Marine stuff, check out Moroso A-B Weld. That stuff is awesome. Gets harder than Chinese arithmetic.

 

Yep, I would run a uni-bit or a tapered rotary stone into the hole in the water pump a half inch or so, grind a taper to match on the fitting, don't even need to be threaded, sweat in in with regular acid-core plumber's solder. Other end of fitting threaded as needed.

XXL; Side note; I had the same problem with threading the inside of that hole on my 292 when I first put it in, wanted to put a plug in it because I didn't have a heater at the time, ended up driving a wood plug in until I got around to installing a heater. Anyhow, the hole was crooked, the tap wouldn't work out, and since I've probably tapped a million threads in my lifetime I can assure you it wasn't technique or the type of tap I used. There is probably sand imbedded in the casting at that location.

 

I hope things work well on this, I feel your pain with this, on the off topic project i'm building it didn't have a single threaded fittings, everything was barbed, I converted every single barb over to a threaded fittings for running AN lines, think about 40 oddball metric threaded in hose barbs and BSP threads. Yes i've wanted to throw things and have thrown things and even wanted to set the car on fire a few times, but I didn't do that. Eventually with patience it will all come out. I would say a few frosty beverages to calm your nerves when things so south, but I quit drinking.

 

Marine-Tex stuff arrived yesterday. This morning I ground the threads off the 3/8" NPT fitting I'm using, and gave it an inward bevel just behind the hex head. I then re-re-recleaned the hole with acetone to make sure I'm gluing metal to metal and not metal to grunge. I mixed up the Marine-Tex as directed-- it's a verrrrrry thick black goop in a plastic "pill bottle," accompanied by a catalyst that has the look and viscosity of a watered down honey, and comes in a glass vial. The mix rate is 5:1, and mixes like any 2 part epoxy... work it together well before applying. The end product, while wet, is very thick, so it was easy to get where I wanted it. I fingered some into the hole along the lip, and then overapplied it to the back end of the fitting (the part where I ground off the threads), then slipped it in the hole with a few twists to make sure I'm getting good coverage inside. I may have gotten some in the exit hole on the fitting, but that should be easily drillable to clear out after it's cured. I clamped everything in place and did one finger coat on the outside down into the groove I had cut behind the hex head, trying to force it into the water pump port as best I could. It took more acetone to clean my fingers, and to clean up the protruding brass. I'll give it until tomorrow to cure, and then see how solid it feels. If good, I'll bend up the other water line, cross my fingers, and start it up.

 

Can the avatar get changed already? Yuck...

 

Sounds like you did it perfectly.

Sometimes Marine Tex seems reluctant to completely cure. If after 24 hours is is still slightly tacky to the touch, don't worry about it. Just leave it be and don't mess with it. It will eventually completely cure and once it does it is bulletproof.

 

Found this thread too late as you already gooped the weld in a tube crap in place from the sound of it.

The real way to do the job would have been to find a malleable cast iron hex reducing bushing with the NPT thread inside that you needed, and a thread size on the outside larger than the hole in your water pump.

Like pictured below.


Then you grind the outside threads off and slide it into the hole in the waterpump.

Now comes the fun part. You can Tig weld it into place cleanly and easily !

Yes thats right, you can Tig weld grey or malleable cast iron.

How ? You may ask

A company called UTP makes a bare round cast iron rod designed for oxy-acetylene fusion welding of cast iron.

Well, it works perfect with the argon shielded DC Tig.

No preheating needed ,and excellent quality weld as a tig weld always is.

UTP -GFeC-1-GO
Welding rod used for oxy-acetylene hot welding of cast iron when a weld of the same color and structure is required.
Use UTP flux #5.

That is UTP's description. The rods are about 18" long,around 3/16 in diameter and look like grey cast iron.

The best news, they make awesome cast iron welds with DC Tig with no flux.

Remember you heard it here first !

Larry.

 

Thanks for that extra info. I was starting to wonder about it... I've been checking the leftovers on the razor blade I used to mix it, and while it's not as gooey, it's by no means solid yet... and it's been about 10 hours since application. I've got plenty of family stuff to take care of tomorrow so I'll be leaving it to do whatever it's going to do, and check it in the evening. Maybe by next weekend I'll have this thing plumbed so I can drive it

 

Help me understand how this would have helped me since I wasn't able to cut threads in the cast iron.

 

That's typical. It will feel tacky for what seems like forever with no change. Then all of a sudden just like that it is completely done. Don't disturb it while it is going through these changes as that can affect the strength of the bond.

Any visible Marine Tex can be filed or sanded smooth once it is cured; as you already observed, you can also run a drill bit down the inside.

Marine Tex used to come with a jelly-like hardener that came in a small glass jar. As soon as you opened it, the hardener would start smoking away. It was eerie. That type of hardener did not give you the elongated tackiness. But god knows what was evaporating away - clearly, the formula was changed and nowadays it comes with that fluid hardener you described. It still works as well as ever, but at the expense of this extended tackiness. You can reduce this period by using more hardener, but that affects overall strength.

 

Extra info above , I finished my post

 

hey on a side note
in one of the pictures with the thermostat housing
what is the red line and sivler thingy???

and hope you get it all sortd out

 

UTTER & ABSOLUTE FAILURE. In running the motor for 5 minutes (not even long enough for it to actually get hot), the fitting came loose. I read the Marine-Tex directions twice before I mixed the stuff, so I'm comfortable that I did it "right." I give Marine-Tex a triple F- because I'm not even back to square one until I get this crap off of pump. Maybe a giant meteor will crush me this evening so I don't have to worry about how I'm going to get this thing fixed.

 

clean out the goop and follow the directions posted in the thread before about the malleable iron fitting, I would much rather trust that any day. you don't need to cut threads you grind then of and drive the fitting in before it gets tig welded

 

Shouldn't be. Was there enough thickness of M-T for it to have something to hold on to? If the fitting was a close fit into the neck of the pump, maybe there was not enough fillet for strength. M-T is not a film bonding agent, like, say, super glue.

Or - some odd-ball material in your pump? Can't tap it, can't epoxy it. Contaminated metal??

 

Well the good news is a new pump is less than $30...............

 

My cousin and I tapped one on a 250 pump on a 250 block to 3/8 NPT (there's no such thing as a 5/16 NPT) and plumbed it to a heat pipe going around a plenum manifold for 3 - 2's. The final cubes on that 250 ended up being 311 cubes.

 

Brand new aluminum pump is ~ $80. If I'm going to take this one off, I might as well buy a new one while I'm at it. If I'm buying a new one, I might as well buy one I can tap. Or, if I'm going to take this one off, I might as well try to find a way over to see Rich Fox. Sadly, there is only one 7-11 in town, and they are starting to recognize me when I rob them.

 

Do not let a water pump win. Ever.

 

As an advocate for water pumps everywhere, I take umbrage at that...

 

All pumps are to be created equal and judged not by the transfer of their fluid but the content of their metal.

or something.

 

What difference would there be between what you describe and stick welding with this?
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http://www.alruqee.net/ind_mkt/RIM-CD&WEB/welding_consumable-files/utp/265-85fn.pdf
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I still think warming it with a hot small flame and a slow cool will make tapping cooperative.<o></o>

 

If you just want to plug the hole ,You can melt lead in it .You will also need the stuff old plumbers use to wrap pipes with when thet leaded in pipes,I forget the name of the stuff.Or dill it out and put a copper cap in it and solder It in .Or on top .

 

Just pound a broomstick into the hole & saw off the extra.... I can't believe this thread still won't die. I think the guy got it figured out 30 posts back...

 

You guys, and several others, need to read what the objective is. It so happens that he DOES NOT want to plug the hole, he wants to install a threaded fitting so that he can plumb a metal line for a hot water supply which will be used for carb heat.

 

Me and others above mentioned finding a fitting that fits inside the spout and brazing it in place. I cannot see why it wouldn't work. I have done similar stuff for years by brazing.

 

The water pump WILL NOT win. I may not win either, so it may simply be a fight to the death.

I'm the one on the left (or maybe the right, I don't know)...

 

Pretending that I was successful, here are a few pics of the lines...

The top line works great. It is, of course, threaded into factory threads in the water neck, using a face washer to bring them down from 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT, and then the 3/8" NPT-to-3/8" IFF fitting goes in there. This gives me what appears to be a single fitting to screw the hard line into. The manifold end is already 3/8" NPT, so I didn't need the face washers. The only sticking point (pun NOT intended) is the bottom fitting in the first pic. Once I get the aluminum pump, I'm going to have a friend tig a fitting onto the end of it. I found a probably fit in this Wilwood part. If the shoulder on the hex side is big enough, I should be able to pop this into the pump hole and tig around it. That should get me a reliable connection. Then, I just have to swap out pumps



I've got some brackets that will keep the lines tied together better as they make their way to the manifold.

 

I think I see why you couldn't tap the cast iron.

 

Do tell.