Has anybody replaced a swing out winshield with a solid rubber mounted one?

Has anyone removed their swing out windshield on a 33 or 34 plymouth, dodge or ford car with a fixed unit. I am looking to see who has done this and what type of seal they have used...I am coming up empty handed online and locally..Thanks..Dave

 

why would you want to do that?

with the ability to open that front winshield a bit it sure makes life liveable in the summer..

not ragging on you..just asking

 

Question #1. I do not have a windshield frame and dont want to fork out $400 for one the $300 for the hinges and misc hardware and then have to find the crank mechanism that only came on 34 plymouths. I can only image what one would cost. I have never seen one for sale..

Question #2. Summer in vegas is far from liveable. The thought of 125 degree air hitting me in the face isnt appealing.

 

my opinion:

Car won't look good without the chrome windshield frame.

Aquire a frame, install glass, install seal and figure a way to solid mount the windshield. No hinges, no crank. Make a few brackets to solid mount.

You will have the looks without the functionality.

My 2 cents.

 

this is a good question im looking at a single piece glass for my 39 standard.I think its a metal filler and rubber and glass i'm not sure. hope someone can help and tell what not to do.

 

The rubber is $45 if I can figure out the right one..... $45 compared to $1000 is an easy equation.

 

Make your own frame!Find some channel or have some made and paint it. I just hade a laminated windscreen made new,chopped 5inches, only $55,Pete

 

Show us what you have made. I though about that but couldnt find any channel. My car has really weird curves. Really interested in what you have...

 

There out there, I sold one for a 35 for $150 a year ago.

 

Theres one on ebay right now
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1933...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

I know. I saw it yesterday. They sell for over $300. There is also a set of hinges too. I mentioned that in one of my replies. The frame isnt the expensive part, its the crank mechanism and the hinges and other hardware. No matter if I get a frame and the hinge Im still without the hand cranking mechanism..Here is a picture of the mechanism in the dash.. I have never seen one for sale and I not know if it will not cross over from another car?????????

 

Thats for a 1933 coupe. The 33 and 34 are not interchangeable . I could use a 1933 windshield and hardware to make it a swing out but I would still be into it for $500-$600... The 1934 is a one year only due to the crank mechanism and the bracket in the center.......
No other parts interchange either. Grille shells, front fenders, hood, dash cap, glove box, instrument panels etc... They are totally unique to each year...

 

I think this is what you asked for. I hammer formed pieces to double the existing lip out of 18 gage sheet metal and formed a pinch weld to mount the rubber to. The rubber is from J C Whitney. Neither SofSeal or Steele had what I wanted in their catalogs. I think it looks fine. This is done to a '36 Ford truck cab.

 

Q#1 Do you know how much larger than the original windshield size you had to go by converting over to this style than the pop out frames glass, or did you do this without a frame or glass to start with like me?
Q#2 Why did you have to double the pinch weld, was it too thin or you needed to match the groove in the rubber?
Thanks..Dave

 

I thought the lip I had needed to be a little sturdier and also the rubber channel was thicker than the single layer of original metal.

I chopped the top so I never compared the original frame to my new opening. The rubber I used needs the glass to be about 1/8" larger than the hole, so I had a buddy hold a piece of plywood to the inside of the flange while I marked the inside of the opening. Then I cut and sanded the plywood 1/8" larger all the way around and that was the pattern I took to the glass shop.

 

Nice. I couldnt find the rubber on JC Whitney so I ordered one for my 56 chevy gasser. It should work but if not no loss. I will have to place the rubber then measure the opening. I think Ill try cardboard as a template.. Thanks for the info...

 

I Have a crank mechanism I will sell you cheap. My buddy installed the vent in his model a but I belive the rest of the mechanism is there. Coupe windshield frames are rather valuable but if it dosn't have to be chromed I would just section 2 inches out of a sedan. I have a sedan I will sell too. I also have a 4 door sedan(parts car) than might have all those parts on.

 

Im a little confused...The crank I need is for the windshield and not the vent on the cowl. Its a 1934 only option that is on the top of the dash. It turns and ratches out the windshield..... I can use a 34 sedan frame but they are just as expensive as a coupe..I pm'd you my number... Call me if you can....Thx..Dave

 

Not the same as a early 30's car but i got rid of the frame alltogether on my 39. Just made a pinchweld so the glass could be urethaned in, 'v' butted the center. Finished it with a universal vynal molding. Hard to see in pic thou.

 

Nice video. I thought about siliconingthe windshield. A local glass shop said urethane is too hard to remove i would break the glasws if I ever had to remove it....I thought about gluing it and running a smooth bead around the edge. I will try the rubber seal first and if that doesnt work I will glue the windshield in...

 

What?????

You need to see some new glass guys!
Silicone is a waste of time and Urethane isn't hard to cut with basic tools.
I've put in at least 500 windshields over the years (thats conservative!) and I wouldn't even consider using Silicone.
Now if your talking a Veebutt or something thats different...it isn't structural...but to actually hold the glass....forget it.

 

Don't use silicon. Urethane is the only and i think legal way to glue a shield in. It's not that difficult to cut a urethaned shield anyway. Sounds like the 'glass man' is a rookie.

 

ive got a painted 34 window frame,at some point someone welded the bottom channel on encasing the glass,ill let you have it cheap.you could probly get some fresh glass in it with a channel cut into the bottom,then seal it up and glue[urathane] the whole deal in. gonna look like shit without a frame.street beast comes to mind.

 

If you add a pinchweld to use a rubber gasket or glue in windshield be very carefull to keep it all on the same plane. The glass won't twist to fit.

 

You are building a HOT ROD right! just do it and make some thing work everything dont come out of a box or a catalog NO rules just do it

 

Dad's Model A has 1/2" angle welded where the windshield frame goes. The glass guy glued in a new windshield. I've seen different ways to mount the glass with and without a gasket on the front. I bought one of the aluminum A window frames for him and we immediately chopped it up leaving only the face, we tig welded the mitered corners and studs(thanks kustomchop), drilled around the glass and mounted it. He polished it and really looks nice.

 

Totally agree...It seems some have opinions otherwise...I couldnt agree with you more.......Dave

 

I thought the silicone sounded wrong. I have 3 tubes of 3m windshield urethane. I think Fast glass in Vegas doesnt like to think on their feet. They couldnt recommend a rubber seal or had any in stock to even show me..

 

Buy a old frame, paint it, cut the back out, glue the glass in it, then glue it all in the car. I've change a lot that have been urethaned in. Yea its work but thats what I get paid to do.

 

I agree. If I can get a frame Ill so just that. Thanks for the advice.....Dave