Looking for method to thread water pump heater hose

I was going to mention that but I wasn't sure if he had one, I have a set and they were pricey, a lot of people don't have them

 

XXL...It look's like something is very wrong with that pump. take it back, and ask for 1 with a proper hose connection. and if they don't have 1, then brother get your money back and shop somewhere else...POP.

 

Seems very simple to me but, maybe I am just to simple minded. I just feel sorry for the next guy that has to replace this jury rigged water pump when it decides to out.

 

Does it say NPT on the tap? I have seen taps and dies in the wrong package. Is the tip of the tap fitting into the hole? The first tooth or two should slip in easily. If not, the hole is too small. If it does fit in, and it is not catching, something is wrong, probably with the tap. Cast Iron is pretty easy to tap, one of the easier things to put threads in.

What's "HMB"?

 

If you can get that thread cut, and I don't see why you won't eventually, you could use a male NPT to 3/8ths swagelok fitting and use 3/8ths tube to run water to your intake manifold. That is what you're trying to do , right?

 

$32.00 for a spiral fluted one seems reasonable to me:

http://www.sowatool.com/catalogue/pdfs/DrillsReamers/p203-204.pdf

Cast iron likes to crumble and taper reaming before npt tapping will improve results greatly.

 

You need to have your pilot hole at least as deep as your tap is long otherwise you will struggle to get the tap to cut , if at all.

 

Heat, insert tapered brass fitting and braise.

 

HMB= Half Moon Bay. Well known early Drag Race place. Case hardened taps are OK for chasing threads. HHS taps for cutting threads. I would bring it over If I was you. Going to be hard to get this done in the car. I have tapered reamers for some pipe taps. Maybe yours and good taps. 650-345-5221

 

Ahh, that makes sense, thanks. I am an East Coast transplant, and still getting up to speed.

 

First, does this board have an 'ignore user' feature? In the highly unlikely event that I ever part with this vehicle, it has been chopped, channeled, raked, shaved, suicided, and otherwise cut upon. In fact, were I to create a list of parts that have NOT been modified, I would not be surprised if the water pump were one of maybe 3-4 total items on that list. While I suspect anyone contemplating the purchase of this vehicle might be able to infer that I had modified the water pump, I have written a reminder to myself to make sure I disclose this fact. Thanks for your pointed contribution to the issue I presented in this post. Now... where's that 'ignore' button?

When I first saw the growing number of "this should be pretty easy" posts, I decided that every last one of you was absolutely nuts. I have not yet convinced myself otherwise , but in this particular case, I now believe the issue lies elsewhere. Either the cast iron used in this water pump has just slightly more nickel content than the hardest ferrite core asteroid in space, or there is something wrong with my tool, or my method. I have now injured my back on this project, so am both pissed off AND hurt. Why is it so hard for me to enjoy a hobby?

Here's a closeup of the tap with markings, and the drill bit package. I couldn't find the tap packaging. Today was trash day so it may have disappeared for good.

I do genuinely appreciate the offer. At this point, if the solution calls for pulling the water pump, I'm going to just put it back like it was. I don't have the time or patience in this horrendously screwed up life of mine to deal with that much at this time... and in my decades' long search for capable shops to do such things, I have only been disappointed time after time, with either the shop turning out to be operated by utter bozos, "rapists," or not interested in anything not modular and not covered by a Mitchell manual. This tiny project is just another manifestation of personal disappointment. Thanks again.

For anyone interested, here are a few random pics of what I was trying to accomplish...

Top heater line uses a threaded barb, which I replaced in less than a minute. I then bent up the line that takes the water over to the manifold (that took about 30 minutes... 10 minutes to screw up the first try, and 20 more to get the second try correct). You can just make out the lower hose port on the water pump just below the loop of the upper line. From the side, it's a straight shot to get at with the drill and tap. I can't imagine removing it would allow a better, sturdier, easier-to-mess-with position than it's in now.



And routed to the manifold...

 

I'm an "I don't belong to anywhere" transplant. I've been here for nearly 2 years... mostly driving 92-280-work, and then 280-92-home. I didn't mean to sound hip with my "HMB" abbreviation... it was actually just me being too lazy to spell it out.

 

I did not mean to imply an air of hipness. I am still learning the local vernacular. Still trying to find a place to fit in too, and I have been here for 10.

Sorry you hurt your back. And for what it is worth, word has it that RichFox is the real deal.

 

I was starting to wonder if you had a left handed tap, but the photo shows a right handed thread.

Really nice neat work on the tubing you ran for the upper water line.

I guess you think the Marine Tex idea to be a hack. It is a material designed for this type of repair. You can use it to fasten a similar brass fitting in place, and then run your stell tubing as on the other one.

 

I would be concerned that if you do tap it, when you tighten the tapered fitting the iron will crack. It's real easy to crack cast iron with NPT fittings. If you were to take 92 to 101 and go North to the first turn off, Keheo Ave, and turn right on the first cross street, Norton St. and stop at the first house, the one with the black Studebaker in the drive way, you would be here. I would say ream the pump to make it round, turn a fitting to fit, brazz, silver solder, soft solder, what ever works and run it. Nice saterday afternoon project. I just did a simular deal with some Hilborn nozzles to -4 AN.

 

Not at all. I just couldn't find anyone locally who sold it. I'm stuck in a training class all this week, so have limited access to phone and Intarwebs (you saw my posts earlier today, pecked out on my ipod). During a break, I called the Ace in Palo Alto, but all they stock is JB Weld. I'll try again tomorrow, but I don't really know where to call. Their site says "marine stores" but I'm not much of a boater, so I'm just taking a WAG at it.

 

XXL, I have a theory on why the cast iron is so hard in that place. If allowed to cool quickly after it is cast it is called chilled cast iron, and can be harder than woodpecker lips. Since they did not need to tap that part of the casting, they probably did not worry about slow cooling it to get ductility . You might tap it with a good HSS tap and some sulfurized thread cutting oil. Probably be cheaper to use the epoxy.

 

You know, if I had someone like Rich Fox not only offer his personal help, assistance, and time on a forum of over 100,000 members, but be brave enough to give step by step directions to his house (if you're standing on the 92 overpass you can see his exit off the 101), I'd have been there in a flash with said water pump in hand, car attached or not, and wearing bells no less, personal problems aside.

 

I used to get paid for doing this kind of stuff. Now I can't give it away. times are tough.

 

^^^Like an older hooker? ^^^ Not that there's anything wrong with that... vic

 

There is a company called "HELP" they make a really slick little block off hose that slide over the nipple and you can clamp it on. I used it on my chevy II in my roadster. sorry I don't have a picture to show you

 

Found one and took a picture

 

It might be a "bottoming" tap, which doesn't have as much taper, so could be a bugger to start in a hole with no existing threads.

EDIT - OOPS!, I just read the rest of the thread and saw the pic of the tap. Looks just like what I have, so ignore the "bottoming" comment. For that matter, now that I think about it, there is no such thing in the NPT category of taps.

 

This is the way to go if you are only going to be blocking the port off. Simple, no machining required. Rotate the clamp around to get the best look out of it.

Bob

 

I'm interested to see the outcome.
I am dealing with the same exact issue, & am planing on using copper lines & compression fittings to the intake manifold
Please post pics of the process.
Rick.

 

It is things such as this that make us an actual community instead of just some on-line group!

Go see Rich. Share some stories and knowledge. Get some threads.

 

My 2 cents: What you've got looks good (the heater hose fitting), but not better enough to do it. I mean, a water pump is basically a wear item, and gets replaced sometime. If you drive this frequently, you may regret it when the aftermarket Chinese pump goes out. Thats just reality.

 

He's not wanting to block it off.

 

Heating that area and then slow cooling in sand or kitty litter overnight may improve machinability and an entry chamfer won't hurt either.

 

I called the makers of Marine-tex today, hoping they could do better than their web site. Tom pointed me to a chain of "marine" stores that carry the product, with one listed only a couple of miles away. While it turns out that location has long since been shuttered, and the next closest one beyond my reasonable reach, they are willing to ship, and so I ordered the 2 oz. gray (heavier duty than the white) kit, and they will ship this afternoon. With any luck, I'll have it by Friday.

As I have already stated, I am greatly appreciative of Rich's offer. My work/home/life situation doesn't afford much time to do such things (which is why my too-many projects are in the state they are). Something as "simple" as "driving over to Rich's," for me entails much more than just hopping in the car and going. Aside from the laundry list of personal reasons/issues restricting me (which serves no purpose to be enumerated here, and which aren't going away just because of how you believe I should handle Rich's offer), and having to broach the topic with my wife, who generally hates everything having to do with my hobbies... or likely me, for that matter, I do hope to make it over there some day, and maybe that can happen sooner than later. But at this point, as far as I can see in my mind's eye, it's just an interest to do so, because I love cars, and I love talking about cars with people who spend lots of time around them... as such, it would be inappropriate for me to make any commitments to his generosity that I likely could not meet. Without knowing me or my situation, you are either going to have to take my response at face value... or not. Frankly, you have no standing to define what I should or should not do in the matter.