From the pictures, you have a 35/36 engine. IF the distributor is the original factory unit, it indicates the engine is 35/early 36. LB engines first appeared in Oct 1935. Both LB and babbitt were produced at the same time. While there are only a few clues to help ID an LB engine, the only sure way is to remove a main cap. I have 3 LB's ... none stamped, and I've looked hard for exterior clues. No vehicle serial numbers were stamped on the block. ID numbers were stamped on the transmission, not the engine. Transmission. 1932-48 will fit but avoid V8-60's. The preferred 1939 with the floor shift, blocker synchros and closed drive is getting pricey along with pick-up open-drives of the early/mid '40s ... but they are not necessary. An earlier transmission in good condition will get you to the ice cream stand and back. My guess is that the engine came out of a running original car to be replaced by a SBC. I would not recommend "piecing out" the parts. There's nothing there that's worth destroying an otherwise good running engine. Chris's rod in Spokane is super nice. Shows a guy who understands early hot rods. Search the HAMB archives for more information.
DON'T hang it by the bellhousing on a stand like other motors, they have broken off, and the treasure is junk. It's a goodie, someone will want that and the govenor setup with the double pulley generator. I have been criticized for saying it but don't tear it down until you have tried to run it. A complete gasket set is way over $100 and if you want to sell it you can offer it a running, makes a big difference. Some guys want & need a "correct" motor. Also get the original trans, nothing wrong with them, I use the car/pickup 3 speed heavy truck 4 speed trans is NFG. Probably doesn't have one as it was run as a power plant. As for them not being worth the time putting it in a rod, I use one and don't plan to change it
With that governor, it could be a military engine. Are there a few extra oil fittings on the back of the block where the oil sender goes? A long shot, but if there are, it's got the full-flow filter mod and could be out of a Bren gun carrier. The value goes 'way up if it is one of those! Anyway, it looks to be in nice shape, if it runs with no extra rattles it will be a great street engine in a rod as long as you don't expect Hemi horsepower! I wouldn't worry about the babbit bearing thing, millions of Chev sixes out there running fine. I have a few myself.
Barry.....Love that "T"! Wide "5"s and all! Power to weight ratio is what its all about, 100 horses will push 1500 pounds like crazy!
does this pic help? another question, would this flattie be okay for highway driving? 60 mp/h (100 km/h) range?
The other day I was driving to Chilliwack and an A bone coupe with a flathead passed me like a bat out of hell and just kept going, I caught up with him at 80mph and he was just cruising along, it was awesome to see. That said I'd seen the car in the summer and know it is not running an early gear box or diff. I took a better photo of my flathead engine stand head, literally $25 worth of material, zip disc or band saw, transfer punch, drill and a bit of welding. The engine is easy to rotate 360 and very sturdy. I drilled 4 holes in the tube so the engine can be set in 4 positions. Jason...
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