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Any Thoughts on double flaring 3/8" line?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by R Frederick, Jan 27, 2010.

  1. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    I had to clamp my steel 3/8" line with my double flare jig in the vice and beat the fitting in with a hammer to get the line to bulge. If I used the clamp, the line would slip through the jig. Anyway, I barely got it to work, but I was not impressed. The only thing I can think to do is heat the line with a torch or something.
     
  2. Time to buy a new "jig"
     
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  3. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    I think it bites in just fine, the line has deep gouges where the line was forced through the jig teeth. Didn't know if anyone had some tricks or something.
     
  4. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    I've heard there is a "softer" steel line available. Never had much luck with anything bigger than 3/16 line.
     

  5. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,718

    junk yard kid
    Member

    did you use a rotary cutter, they work hardern the metal, also i put mine in the vise and beat on the handel of the vise and i use a big screw drivwer to tighten the jig
     
    The Magic Ratchet likes this.
  6. I saw someone wrap some fine sandpaper around the line before clamping it. Just a wrap or two seemed to hold it.
     
  7. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    Yea, I used a small tubing cutter that clamps a round blade against the line and you rotate it around the line to cut. That seems to shrink the diameter of the end, but the line is supposed to bulge about 1/8" below that anyway. Guess I just bought a real tough piece of line.
     
  8. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,499

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Did you deburr and file a bevel on the end of the tubing? That makes a huge difference.
     
  9. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,658

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    I deburred it, but I didn't bevel. I think when I hit it again, I'll dress it on the bench sander. That might even put some heat in it.
     
  10. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,295

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Put a dab of grease on the ID of the line, so the flaring tool doesn't have to overcome the resistance of sliding on the tubing.
     
  11. bloodsweat&gears
    Joined: Sep 19, 2009
    Posts: 11

    bloodsweat&gears
    Member

    I always use brake fluid as a lubricant that way you don't contaminant the fluid with grease when you hook the line up
     
    2OLD2FAST likes this.
  12. nutajunka
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,464

    nutajunka

    Sometime the quality of the double flaring tools vary. If you continue to have problems I have an old clamping tool that is twice as thick as the one's you buy today. Bigger is sometimes better...:D
     
  13. caseyrod
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 138

    caseyrod
    Member

    #1 dont heat the tube.#2the best off any off those flaring tube kits are'nt that good.#3tomake good flares at home you have to spend good money on a good U.S. made flaring tool.I bouth a mastercool its expensive but i am very happy with it.word from the wise.
     
  14. oldebob
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 782

    oldebob
    Member
    from Spokane WA

    I have an old Imperial kit. The clamp jig is pretty rugged. It works in a pinch but I prefer the preflared steel line from NAPA. Hard to beat a nice factory double flare. The clever way their lengths vary you can get quite a few combinations if you don't mind an extra coupler or two.
     
  15. JEM
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,040

    JEM
    Member

    I'm no ace fabricator and I'm sure somewhere there's a hard line somewhere it can't deal with but the Mastercool 71475 hydraulic-pump flaring tool seems to me to be the breasticles for this sort of work.

    There's not much technique or skill involved - if you can get the tool on the tube, get the end lined up with the die, get the tube and die clean and dry so it'll clamp, you will have a production-quality flare. The biggest potential for screwup is forgetting to put the tube nut on. SAE double-flare, 37 and 45 AN/JIC flares, ISO bubbles, GM and Ford push-on EFI tube ends, does all kinds of fun stuff without drama.

    It costs money, and its size makes it less than ideal for tight-quarters position work on the car, but for anything where you can get clearance it's about as foolproof as these things get.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2010
  16. X2 heres a pic bought mine off the truck.
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. huero
    Joined: Mar 8, 2007
    Posts: 77

    huero
    Member

    The above tool will still struggle with 3/8 hard line.
     
  18. unkamort
    Joined: Sep 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,014

    unkamort
    Member

    I ponied up for the Eastwood cam lever type tool, and while I haven't tried it on 3/8 it sure made life easier with brake lines.
     
  19. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    Mine does not :)
    I bought a MasterCool 71475 flaring tool and I love it.
    @ almost 300 dollars, it is not inexpensive but it does a bunch of different flares and different sizes.

    Money well spent IMHO.
     
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  20. JEM
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,040

    JEM
    Member

    Since we're talking about tubing tools, anyone got a line on a decent tubing straightener cheaper than the $300-odd BrakeQuip piece?

    It's basically five grooved rollers, problem is that five grooved rollers of adequate size and capacity from e.g. McMaster-Carr ends up being so close to $300 as to make no difference.

    Need some machine tools around here...
     
  21. huero
    Joined: Mar 8, 2007
    Posts: 77

    huero
    Member

    I have one also. You have to be careful because there is a piece on the tool that will eventually crack if you are not carefull. 3/8 is just too tough.
     
  22. Crusty Nut
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,834

    Crusty Nut
    Member

    I have the same one. I recently flared some 3/8 with no problems. Sure, it took a little more muscle than 3/16, but the flares came out perfect.
     
  23. Brad54
    Joined: Apr 15, 2004
    Posts: 6,021

    Brad54
    Member
    from Atl Ga

    I dunno... If you have to beat anything, you're doing something wrong. In a post further down, you say the line has to bulge 1/8-inch? Are you talking about between the clamp and the die?
    I've NEVER had a problem making double flares in any size, in mild or stainless, using this kit from Snap-on. It's now $140, but was $97 when I bought the thing 22 years ago as a broke 17 year old kid. (holy shit I feel old, because Premium was 89-cents a gallon then... $100 for me was a fortune)

    http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1338&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

    If you're using a dull cutter, you're work-hardening the line. If you're using a cut-off wheel, you're work-hardening the line, and more than likely you aren't cutting it square.

    I had a MasterCool, but sold it--nice tool, but I prefer the manual Snap-on kit. You need a HIGH quality tubing cutter, even with the MasterCool.

    The clamp you have may indeed be putting grooves in the tubing, but if it's pushing the tubing through, it's not tight enough. I sometimes need to take a rod or screwdriver shaft and use it to get better leverage on the big wingnuts to tighten the clamp more than I can do with my thumb and finger.

    I've never used lubricant of any kind to make the flares either.

    And as others have said, I deburr the end of the tube, and lightly chamfer the inside of the tubing with a tapered needle file. Truth is, I never had a problem with cracking flares before I started filing them, but it seems like an extra step that's probably worth it.

    I've done hundreds of flares with this kit, and never cracked or split one, and never had one fail.
    I HAVE had flares fail on that shitty soft brake line some places are selling--the flares have pull off, or outright crushed and deformed when tightened during brake installs.

    -Brad
     
    gary macdonald likes this.
  24. Not all steel line is created equal. Some is way harder than others.

    As for flaring I have never had any luck with any flaring tools other than RIGID, and I've tried a bunch of 'em.

    Never the less I'm going to bet that you got hard steel line as opposed the softer more pliable stuff.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  25. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 845

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    Are you using hydraulic or brake line tubing? Steel hydraulic tubing will be a lot harder to flare as it's harder, espcially if it's DOM (drawn over mandrel seamless) and is usually only single flared. Double-walled brake lines are made from softer material and therefore will double flare more easily. Keep an eye out for splitting. :cool:
     
  26. Ozzie
    Joined: Sep 1, 2006
    Posts: 458

    Ozzie
    Member

    Caseyrod is an absolute MASTER with tubing. The brake, Fuel and Vacumm lines on my 23 are the bees knees!
     
  27. i have an old imperial +40 years if the tubing slips I mount it in a vise close to the tubing between the two wing nuts leaving enough room to work the anvil the extra clamping works every time
     
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  28. 54FISH
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 356

    54FISH
    Member

    It seems Alot is mentioned on sites to Tighten the wing nut CLOSEST to where the line is clamped FIRST , then the other ( idk ,just 2 cents) . My problem is I'm doing 3/8" fuel line but to double flare my flare tool ( after setting 1st height with die) the flare tool( with cone ) won't reach the other to lock on & start flaring ,WTF is going on here!!?? Depth is set ,Imperial flare tool ( American I thought) so.....?? Any suggestions ???
     
  29. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,217

    ekimneirbo

    I would guess you have tubing that is slightly undersize due to the manufacturer variation. You could lightly grind the faces of your dies on a belt sander which would allow them to clamp the tube tighter. Mic their thickness before you grind so you can tell how much you removed. Maybe .010 or so.

    Not the best solution, I admit.......or try a different brand of tubing.:)
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.

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