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** HELP!!! Tractor Supply Valspar Paint/ Hardner?? **

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Sutton Speed, Jan 27, 2010.

  1. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member

    Ok so heres the deal...

    Sandblasted my frame, rearend and some 80 something parts.

    Primed with Tractor Supply Valspar bare metal primer thinned with mineral spirits.

    Painted with Tractor Supply Valspar low gloss black, thinned with mineral spirits, and the Valspar hardener.

    Painted everything on Monday, go out today and everything looks great, is dry, scratch it with my fingernail and it scratches up SUPER easy... WTF?

    Everyone said this paint was super tough especially when using the hardener, supposed to be tough as nails. Where did I go wrong? After spending days researching, sandblasting and painting and now this... I'm freakin out. Any help or input would be appreciated.
     

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  2. May Pop
    Joined: Jun 16, 2005
    Posts: 125

    May Pop
    Member

    Did it say to thin with mineral spirits? I would guess it should have been enamal reducer. Just a thought.
     
  3. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member

    Yes it said mineral spirits or Naptha. A few guys on here said they reduced it with Mineral Spirits and had good results.
     
  4. D.R.Smith
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 294

    D.R.Smith
    Member

    I have used reducer with good luck
     

  5. D.R.Smith
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 294

    D.R.Smith
    Member

    One other thing I belive {proberly wrong ] that paint dries as the reduer evapeorates,I think if you give it more time the paint will harden up.as it takes longer for sprits to dry out?
     
  6. Defisch
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 181

    Defisch
    Member
    from Hudson FL.

    I used the same stuff on my Model A and it took a few days to dry completly, it'll dry just give it time.
     
  7. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,772

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    You are not out anything by giving it more time. Give it a week and see if it doesn't get better.

    Neal
     
  8. Black Primer
    Joined: Oct 1, 2007
    Posts: 965

    Black Primer
    Member

    Same here but thinned with naptha. Give it time.
     
  9. 40chevythrowensparks
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 100

    40chevythrowensparks
    Member

    ive used this stuff but i mixed naphtha... it dried faster and is tough as nails... the john deer blitz black is good stuff to... you have to but the john deer reducer though
     
  10. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member

    I didnt... Just blew off all the media and wiped them clean... I've never sanded after blasting in the past. Should I have?

    They were primed well though and the primer was dry?
     
  11. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member

    I hope you guys are right.
     
    wesdon likes this.
  12. shep's pinstripes
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 3

    shep's pinstripes
    Member

    Give it time ... it should dry over the next day or two. Maybe put a fan to help the air flow in the shop. (but be careful not to blow dust & dirt) or just Bake it the some of that CA Sunshine! Thats coming from from a dude in frozen Wisconsin! Good Luck!
     
  13. roadsterpilot
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 557

    roadsterpilot
    Member

    Give it some time, it will dry out faster and harder with enamel reducer. I always use enamel reducer and its very durable after it airs out.
     
    wesdon likes this.
  14. second_time_around
    Joined: Jan 11, 2010
    Posts: 108

    second_time_around
    Member
    from Ohio

    I hate to say and I'm sure most here will aruge with me But Valspar Paint sucks , it is no consistant some batches are good and soom are not so good , when dealing with something you've spent so much time on why not just buy good paint , valspar paint along with all of T.S.C tractor do not hold a good luster for long , International here in ohio went with valspar and had 91% customer complaints , Lowes Switched to valspar but have now switched to another brand , you put alot of pride into your Car project so do yourself a favor and put some pride into your Paint even if it is just the frame , you'll have a better outcome, But on a lighter note , using mineral spirts will take more drying time then Naptha , so just wait a few days and you'll be ok .
     
  15. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,220

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Uh, Hello? Did anybody mention, "IT'S ENAMEL, IT'S SOFT, IT'S CHEAP, WHAT DID YOU EXPECT?" This stuff is old style, alkyd enamel, and if you've never painted with it, you'd better spend at least a couple of hours researching why that stuff is NOT used for anything but old farm implements (and rat rods). There is a reason chemists exist, and you're not gonna beat the odds, science, and economics with $30 a gallon Tractor supply enamel.

    Why on earth would you, or anyone, use that stuff on anything they cared about? Internet and magazine " I painted my car for $50 bucks with a mop and I love it..." articles and threads notwithstanding, there's a reason, and you've just found it.

    I swear, I'm gonna tear my hear out by the roots if I read one more post on how great "Blitz Black" enamel, Rust O Leum, or Tractor Supply enamel worked on one more guys crappy 4 door sedan or Rat Rod pickup project, or complaints about how much paint jobs cost.

    There, I feel better now...:D

    Oh, and give it a week out in the sun to "cure", and you'll be wiping the chalky, oxidized upper layer off with a rag. Whew, rant over, I'm done.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2010
  16. dude just wait and see whats up ....
     
  17. redlinetoys
    Joined: May 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,302

    redlinetoys
    Member
    from Midwest

    Mineral spirits is super slow and alkyd enamel is slow too. If you over reduced with hardener thinking that would help, you may have shot yourself in the foot. If you mixed it acceptably, you are gonna just spend some time waiting and it will harden up.
     
  18. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member

    Point taken...

    With that said, its a frame and suspension parts, not a 4 door rat rod body. I had heard that the paint was tough and held up well, especially with the hardener and figured it would be fine for the frame and suspension parts. My car is anything but a rat rod BUT you are right, should have spent the money and bought some decent paint.

    I'll give it some time and hopefully it will harden up.
     
  19. redlinetoys
    Joined: May 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,302

    redlinetoys
    Member
    from Midwest

    If you painted the primer and the topcoat both at the same time, that may be aggravating the situation. Mineral spirits is pretty slow. The paint coat will flash over on the outside because the solvent can get out easy there, but then it sort of case hardens and traps all the rest of the solvents underneath.

    Worst case scenario can be lifting and wrinkling. Best case scenario is just a slower than usual drying time. I wouldn't even stick my fingernail in it again until it has been dry for a week. If it has improved by then, it will likely continue to improve slowly until it is in pretty good shape.
     
  20. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member

    The frame and about half the parts were primed about 2 weeks prior, the second half of the parts were primed the day before... All seem to scratch pretty easy.
     
  21. redlinetoys
    Joined: May 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,302

    redlinetoys
    Member
    from Midwest

    Uh...

    Probably better clarify the defect in this case.

    There is a HUGE difference between coating that is soft and mars to the fingernail versus coating that is peeling off of the bare metal. I was interpreting this to be the prior situation.

    Is that correct?
     
  22. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member

    When you run your fingernail across the surface it scratches off the paint and you can see red primer.
     
  23. LXTURBO2000
    Joined: Aug 1, 2008
    Posts: 122

    LXTURBO2000
    Member
    from NEW MEXICO



    th john deere paints are also made by valspar.
     
  24. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,220

    flynbrian48
    Member

    OK. I'm gonna soften up my earlier rant.

    This stuff is probably OK for chassis paint, on componants that will NEVER be exposed to the sun. Here in Michigan, that's all year, in SoCal, well...

    This car is pretty cool, and by the looks of what's been done, and the effort so far, if it were me, I'd blast all that stuff back off, prime it with 2K, and shoot it with single stage catalyzed urethane enamel.

    Yes, it's a hassle. Yes, it's an extra couple of days of nasty, thankless work. Yes, it's probably another two or three hundred bucks, BUT...

    Do it once, do it right. I've made plenty of bone-headed, hurry up mistakes on cars that made me not satisfied with the end result. If somebody had been around to say, " Hey Brian, don't do it that way, do it the RIGHT way...", I'd have been way ahead, money, time, and satisfaction.

    My earlier comments about Blitz Black, Rat Rods, painting with a mop or broom, and the welter of mid 60's 4 door sedans posing as hot rods still stand...
     
  25. Brandy
    Joined: Dec 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,286

    Brandy
    Member
    from Texas

    I work with tractors, and restore a good deal of them and I have to say, tractor paint is some damn tough stuff.............even here in the good ol SoCal sun.

    But whatever, I'm not going to DEFEND paint to anyone.

    Mineral spirits takes ages to dry, you need good ol ultra violet rays to help it along and since it's been ugly as sin lately, you really should give it some quality time to get it's shit together.
     
  26. Sutton Speed
    Joined: Jul 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,140

    Sutton Speed
    Member


    Brian,

    Thanks for being a stand up guy as I can tell you are from your private messages. Thats the great thing about being a young guy in this hobby is I get to learn from you guys like you who have been there, done that. And yes, your comment about rat rods and ugly 4 door rockabillyrods still stands in my book as well. I'm trying my best to build this hot rod as traditional as I can while not breaking the bank at the same time. Yes it has a sbc and no its not a banjo rearend but I'm trying my best to mix the right traditional parts with what I have to build the best car I can.
     
  27. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    I used it on all my suspension parts. I learned the hard way that the primer needs DAYS and DAYS to cure if you build it very much. I also reduced it a good deal and just made some light coats on other parts and it all cured just fine. I did have the same issue. You just need to leave it aloe for a couple of weeks and be carefule for a few more. Mine cured fine, eventually, but I do have several places to fix for the same reason.
     
  28. second_time_around
    Joined: Jan 11, 2010
    Posts: 108

    second_time_around
    Member
    from Ohio

    sutton speed , I understand about the saving money part , But if you just spent lets say 75 dollars to do all you did and then you have to spend another 200 to correct it and do it right then thats a big loss , if it were me I would get on egay and get a good single stage paint of your choice of color get the reducer and hardner package and spend perhaps 125 to 150 dollars then you have a good start , and even on a blasted frame , do a bit of sanding and make sure to use a tack rag and strain your paint, use all the steps you would on a body and use good paint , that frame of your car is like the foundation of your house it needs to be upkept as good as the house as thats what the house sits on ... just like your body of your car as it's just as important, you have a project to be proud of so be proud of all the parts not just the body , I understand about saving dollars , but sometimes it's like buying tools ((( BUY IT AMERICAN AND BUY IT ONCE ))) a little off topic but ((( true story ))) a good friend of mine is on his 4th set of stanley ((( walmart ))) tools he swears by them , he said there just as good as my snapon at a 1/4 of the price now he's bought 4 sets now so that the price of my snapon he's been through 4 sets I have my orignal set so buy it once ((( do it once ))) and do it right , Oh and I have a rat rod = in my back yard the rats and the mice and the snakes love it so I guess it's a Rat,Mice,Snake Rod
     
  29. hotrod32@usfamily.net
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 251

    [email protected]
    Member
    from st paul

    rat why paint it.........................huh!
     
  30. Ok, here is a tip if you want to spend less but get something durable than tractor paint. Talk to your paint jobber about INDUSTRIAL single stage urethanes. Many times the formula is close or the same as the higher end automotive lines but the cost is considerably less. I sprayed PPG's Urotech a couple times and was amazed at the toughnes and gloss of the paint. The paint itself was around $50/gal and with all components was less than $125.
     

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