Chevy II Build Pics

I just started a Nova project. Here are a couple pics of the beginning. I got the motor running the other day after a little tinkering and it seems to run fine. After re-wiring it and adding a new starter it has started every time and seems to shift well. I wanted to detail the engine compartment and thought the best results will come by just taking the engine out and detailing it in the hoist with a new Eddlebrock carb and some chrome. The trans seems fine, but I plan to convert it to a floor shifter and lose the column shifter. I took out the clutch, pressure plate and through-out bearing and will replace them while it is out. I picked up all the new u-joints, seals, gaskets and paint for the engine today. I de-greased the motor twice and it is inside drying for the paint and face lift.
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The brakes were just gone so I inspected them and they need a lot of work…I am ordering a disk brake conversion with a power booster. I will just replace everything and put on new drop spindles that will lower the front end two inches. I will use lowering blocks in the back to get it level by taking it down three inches. The stance should be just right. I ordered new floor pans last week and should get them this week. The body was in good shape, but the floors are almost gone entirely. This will fix the rust and also stiffen up the car body. When all of the floors are welded in I will paint the entire undercarriage black and do the inner fender wells. I will detail the engine compartment and do all the front end and brake work when there is room to work there. When everything is painted underneath and the engine and transmission are detailed, I will drop them back in and finish the front suspension, steering and shocks installation. Once all this is done I can select a set of modern tires, but I need to wait until the engine weight is back in and the new ride height is set with the lowering components so I can see how much clearance there is for rubber.
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After all this, it will be able to drive with all new steering, brakes and rubber. I have a guy lined up to do a custom interior and then I will paint it last.

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I finished up detailing the motor and a few pieces with paint. I decided to start on the floors by taking out the old patches that were riveted in…What a job that turned out to be. I pulled up the first patch and then the rest were cut and pulled out and then there was no floor as you can see in the pictures. The new floor pans should be here any day and I will start fitting them and cutting out the old rusted areas. After welding them in the floor the body should be sturdy again.
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I ordered the new disk brake kit, power booster, lowering kits, four shocks, front end kit (tie rods, ball joints, Eurothane bushings etc…), Edlebrock 600 carb, Chrome air cleaner/valve covers, Hurst shifter (and mounting hardware to convert to a floor shifter) and a few other odds and ends. <o> </o>
Scott
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<o>Here last winter's project:</o>
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320631&highlight=51+ford+f1+project+pics
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My wife like's these "little" Novas....(as she call's them)

 

Looking forward to watching this one if it's anything like your truck thread.

 

I have a '63 convertible with a SBC and 700R4. The fun factor of the Nova nearly matches my '36 coupe. Nearly but not quite.
Looks like you are doing a good job. Keep at it.
If you are thinking of changing the front suspension, check out what the Church Boys offer. An amazing set up.
If you're stuck, check out www.stevesnovasite.com . Some very helpful guys there and probably more appropriate than this forum.
Good luck.

 

I wanted to make the car more drivable...not really fast, but just a good driver. Part of that meant getting the shifter off the column which sounded easy since everyone has a "Column to floor" conversion shifter kit. Long story short on this Chevy II is this- It was a six cylinder (common) and therefore the transmission was a <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</st1:City>Muncie</ST1lace 318 which is a light duty three speed. All the <st1:City w:st="on"><ST1lace w:st="on">Hurst</ST1lace></st1:City> shifters say they have universal kits that "Should" work, but I wasn't really interested in shipping parts back and forth. I did a bunch of searching on the net and found a few smart guys to ask questions. The smartest was a guy at <st1:City w:st="on"><ST1Hurst</ST1lace</st1:City>. My question was narrowed down to this specifically, "Do you have a mounting kit and shifter for a <st1:City w:st="on">Muncie</ST1lace</st1:City> 318?"... He was the only guy that checked, said yes and then emailed me the installation instructions to look over. They even gave me the 367-311 part number...Sounds great right? Problem is they also said this part is no longer produced and recommended looking around to find a smaller retailed that still has one on their shelf. I found one and ordered it- It fit perfect. The Hurst Mastershift bolted up easily and after some adjusting on the bench it shifts smooth and clean.
The pictures show the nasty trans getting degreased, painted silver (too bright), then painted gray, a couple test fittings of all the linkage and then the final painting, assembly and adjustment. I think the cool factor of a floor shifter is worth the $300 all this cost. Now I just need to cut a hole in the floor after I get the new pans welded in.
Scott

 

Great Build!


Another Nova Tread Subscribed to


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FLOORS:<O
I finished welding in the floors today. After cutting everything out the floors fell right into place, but still needed some work to get them to go down in the pan area enough to touch the supports coming off the firewall. (The first thing I did for fitting was set them in place and then used silver paint to outline the endge on the car floor. This made a great outline for cutting the overlap line and was a constant reference for the entire fitting process-Highly recommended.) The best way to get them down was to reduce the flare of the curves in the front and rear floor areas. I just made a relief cut right in the center of the curve so the panel could pie/overlap and then just welded it back together.<O</O
After the welding I put a thin layer of fine-cut fiberglass over the seams on the top and bottom to waterproof and deaden the sound. It really seemed to make it feel solid and lost the “tinny” sound.<O</O
I had to make a couple additional pieces where the floors pan didn’t cover. Just had to make a couple cuts for shape and then pound in a couple angles for fit and weld them in.
I was very glad to get the floors all finished since it was 1 degree this morning here in Missouri and I was workiing outside. Next is the black chassis paint and then the nut and bolt work.
Scott

 

Great job, but do your self a favor and go buy a bucket of automotive seam sealer for the gaps.

Ive done the half pans before, and a couple full floor pans, the complete pans go in way easier. What you save in initial cost with the half pans, you burn up in welding supplies, lol.

Good job!

 

Spity~
Yep...if I had to do it again I would sure consider the full pan. It comes with all the braces in place and looks easier to cut out. I have never changed a panel before and figured I couldn't go wrong compared to the floors (or lack of) that were there. I am happy with them and can start the interior now. First I need to spray the unerneath, fender wells, trunk and engine bay with chassis black...maybe today...then I can get that motor and trans back in.
I am waiting to see some more of your build. I have been getting side tracked with a flathead project.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432616
Scott

 

Nice thing about these "little" novas is their weight. My 64 only weighted 2900 with a 69 300 hp. 350 and a turbo 400, and was a blast to lay rubber in. The electric kick down switch on the 400 trans. really helped it jump up when needed...

 

Yes, what he said.

 

Neat little cars.Got a pair of 65 hardtops in the back of the shop waiting for me to get going on.

 

Looks like your having fun with your build , however it would go easier on you if you junked those ROBOGRIPS , LOL seen them in your pictures I hate those things , anyways looks like your well on your way on your restore , may I ask what made you go with a Chevy II ?

 

I think you need to look for a Chevy II V8 oil pan, unless you beat yours with a hammer its going to collide with the center link.

4 complete complete customer restorations going on in the shop, a 62 Nova Hardtop, a 63 Nova ss, a 63 Nova 'vert, and a 67 rs/ss Camaro. Been busy, lol.

 

The best shifter was the old Hurst Syncrolock. Was spring loaded so when you speed shifted into second it would pop over automatically. Those 3 speeds were notorious for getting tangled up so it was the cats ass.

The sliding first gear teeth will shuck off like an ear of corn with any kind of torque. With the light car and and no dumping the clutch it may survive. Later Muncie 3 speed better.

Oil pan will positively hit steering relay rod. Hammer won't get it done. Get V8 pan and oil pump. Rams horn exhaust will be damn close to steering box - original Nova V8 had special angled manifold. Nova V-8 block had raised oil filter boss. Both items rare finds.

Good lock with the clutch linkage - but it can be done.

 

The oil filter wont be a big deal if he runs a remote filter, or a shorty.

Your right about the hammer not working, that was a joke. You need to notch it, or get an acceptable aftermarket or original pan.

Your right about the stock Chevy II ram horns, however they are worthless, they flow worse than any other ram horn because of there small diameter. They used the same ram horns from a 220hp 283 to a 350hp 327 they are JUNK, you can get cheap headman headers for about 150 bucks but the clutch linkage is the drawback.

Hes going to need a clutch pivot ball kit to run a manual trans without a stock Nova V8. Original Nova v8s had a boss tapped, and a ball stud installed.

I have several sets of stock Chevy II ram horns, and Chevy II v8 blocks laying around if they are so rare...

 

Cold outside in Missouri today, but needed to power wash the underneath and trunk good before paint. Next time it will go back outside will be for chassis black paint.

...And the reason I went with the Chevy II for the build...It was inside a building I bought so i decided to build it.
Scott

 

Looking good, man! Love those '65s!

 

Good day today- Got up about early(Since it is dark when I get home I needed to do it before work when the sun came out), moved the Nova outside and prepped everything to paint the undercarriage and engine compartment chassis black. I am ready to put the engine in, but have to paint first so I do not get overspray on the engine and tranny since they are detailed.

Finally got home and had boxes of parts waiting for me. Inside the CPP delivery was all of the disck brakes, power brake booster, drop spindles, shocks and Eurothane bushings for the front end.
Scott

 

Finally got home and had boxes of parts waiting for me. Inside the CPP delivery was all of the disck brakes, power brake booster, drop spindles, shocks and Eurothane bushings for the front end.

 

hey you don't have any 14 inch 4 lug rims do ya ?

 

Nice start! If you're looking for more hardcore Nova info, check out the discussion boards at http://www.stevesnovasite.com and http://www.novas.net

Lots of good info, and leads on parts you may still need...

 

I had a '65 II, same body style. Mine started life with a 153" 4cyl. and air cooled PG, PS and AC. It was a little faster than a Moped when the AC was on, but very $ friendly. During the time I owned it, it had every size of Gen 3 engine avalible (194-292) take a pass under the hood. Some were stock, most had been massaged. The original PG was replaced by a T350 (worked the best). I played with a lot of carb. combs, 2x1's, 3x1's, 2bbl's (1 to 3), 4bbl's, Injectors and Webbers. I likes the 3x2's (small) the best. It was a street toy and never saw the track. With the .060 over 292 and the T350 it put many a BBC to shame from a stop light. Wish I had that car back..

 

Back at it today. Sprayed another coat of black chassis paint underneath and on some more trim pieces. Now that all the painting is finished I can keep it inside and get the new brakes/spindles/shocks on it. I looked over all the front end pieces and then started taking off the old drums/spindles/tie rods. I just cut the brake lines and used the "hot wrench" to cut the lower ball joint instead of fighting it. It was much quicker.
I also installed the new flywheel and clutch to check fitment in the bell housing before I was under the car. I ended up switching from a rare (and irreplaceable) 9" flywheel/disk to a standard 10.4. A call to Summit and the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and T/O bearing was here a day later for $205.
Tomorrow will be all front end work and fighting the new bushings into place.
Scott

 

Nice build. I just subscribed to this thread.

 

The last two days have been a bear. Trying to get all of the last few pieces off has been tough. I have had to fight every rusty nut and bolt on the front end to get the control arms off and apart. Every piece from the idle arm to the strut rods has been a fight, but the lower control arms were both stuck. I got the nuts off easily, but the ecentric bolt was rusted to the metal bushing in each side. I tried to hit it with a hammer...nothing. I cut the tip off, marked it with a center punch and drilled it out to have a seat for my air chissel to ride...nothing. These things were stuck solid. I then tried cutting the bolt head off with the cut-off wheel...nothing. Finally, I went back to the hot wrench and carefully aimed the slag away from the sides in the long slot the bolt rides in. I didn't want to damage the mounting areas. I got them both cut down to nothing and then, after massive heat and hammering, the air chissel put them both on the floor.
Never again...
Scott
P.S. I would just like to take a moment and thank my torch...

 

A before and some after pics of the front end. It was all nut and bolt work today with the toughest challenge of fighting the springs into place. The spring compressors from Oreilly's did the trick and I loosely fit everything together and kept checking clearance. Everything from the kit seems to fit OK, but I need to go back and torque everything down when I am certain it is right. The next big hurdle will be lowering the rear and then the dreaded brake system.
Scott<O</O

 

Good job - looking forward to seeing updates. I have a bunch of CPP stuff on my car too ('63).

 

great Job ... Now I see why I could not get the name 63chevyII on here it's already taken

 

Focused on getting the power brake booster installed and hooking up all the lines Saturday. Since the stock brakes were a single pot master cylinder and the new set up is a dual pot, there are now two lines that cross over to the passenger side. One goes to the other front brake and the other goes to the rear brakes. Even though the kit from CPP has everything, there is still a little engineering to be done- It is a good kit, but don't expect "bolt in".
The old master cylinder has two bolts that hold it in and the new one has three. You cannot use the old studs because they would be sticking into the booster so you have to drill them out. This was kind of a pain, but mostly due to the funny drill angle and dull bits. I cut the studs off with the cut off wheel and then pre drilled the center of the studs. After going up a drill size at a time I finally broke through. I used the foam gasket as a pattern to mark the third bottom hole and drilled it. Once the pin is hooked up to the brake arm and the nuts are installed from the inside of the dash, installation is finished...that is easier said then done though.
The lines all need a little tweaking, but obviously will fit. I used zip ties to hold it all together and out of the way of the motor.