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Problems with Fatman Dropped Uprights

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by James Curl, Dec 21, 2009.

  1. murfman
    Joined: Nov 6, 2006
    Posts: 540

    murfman
    Member

    Did you even read the thread? Fat Man is actually posting right here and telling him how to fix the problem!:rolleyes:

    Mad props to Fat Man, I bought a set of his spindles a couple of years ago for my/my dads 53 Plymouth wagon. They did not fit, so I called and they had new ones at our door in 3 days. Turns out Ma Mopar had a couple of different upper bushing sizes, and we just ended up with the odd ball one. All is well now, and I would never hesitate to reccomend Fatman to anyone.
     

  2. Anyone with experience building cars pretty much knows very few parts/upgrades are truely "bolt on". Most of the time, it is the 1 to 10 rule. You change one thing and it effects 10 others

    I agree with Shadetree.
    Fatman makes a multitude suspension components. Some are more complex than others.
    I have used many of Brents products only having issues with a couple. A phone call to Brent in a civilized manner has always brought a positive resolution to any issue I've ever had. (more often that not it was me having a helmet fire and just needing a little help getting pointed in the right direction).
     
  3. wizzard23
    Joined: Dec 12, 2009
    Posts: 733

    wizzard23
    Member

    R.E. my signature.
     
  4. James Curl
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 370

    James Curl
    Member

    I have received several e mails from Brent himself, and I have decided the problem is that whoever bent the arms originally let them bend too close to the rear mounting hole which results in the arms hitting the ends of the bottom A frame, limiting the travel of the wheels. I bought the whole front end from a running driving car from a member who bought the finished car. He replaced the whole front with a Fatman front clip and is happy with it. This front end has disc brakes and uses a 3/8" adapter mounted to the backside of the spindle moving the steering arms 3/8" closer to the lower A frame. The Scarebird kit mounts the adapter plate on the outside of the spindle and does not move the steering arms closer to the lower A frames. Would hate to start over using the Scarebird kit to solve the problem as I have quite a large amount invested in what I already have. I will either try to heat and re-bend the arms or just fabricate new arms from bar stock. In one of the articles on installing the dropped uprights in R&C the author alluded to the fact that the arms might need to be clamped in a vice when bending to prevent them from bending too close to the rear mounting hole which seems to be what happened to my steering arms.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2010
  5. Scarebird
    Joined: Sep 26, 2006
    Posts: 960

    Scarebird
    Alliance Vendor
    from ABQ, USA

    "regardless of who made the stuff, that's the standard answer."

    Us vender's try not to do that, but you would be amazed at the variations the automakers present us with... :eek:
     
  6. JOHNNYSCAT
    Joined: Aug 22, 2006
    Posts: 94

    JOHNNYSCAT
    Member
    from Kansas

    I did the fatman dropped uprights on my 50 plymouth, this sounds like what i did. Pretty sure mine came with step by step intructions. This link may help you out.

    http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/135_0501_1951_plymouth_suburban_wagon/index.html
     

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