Trying to get the project running, 1965 Chevy C10... Took out the old worn out 305 and installed a fresher 327. The problem started when I tried to fire up the motor for the 1st. time. Turned the ignition switch and nothing... I had dash lights and other power, but the starter would not engage. I jumped under and started looking for problems. Made the mistake of my wrench touching the live power wire for the starter. Couple of small sparks and a few foul words. Went back to try again and now nothing. No lights on the dash, headlights, no power at all anywhere... I am hoping just a fuse somewhere and not something more serious. Any ideas where to look or what to check...? I looked at the fuse panel, but didn't see anything that looked blown. So, my problem went from a non-working starter, to no power to anything... Had the starter wired to the leg on the outside away from the block. I belive I need to move the smaller wire to the leg on the inside, toward the block...? <!-- / message -->
If I'm not mistaken, correct me if I'm wrong Hambers, the power feed wire goes from the pos terminal of the batt to the voltage regulator. And the start wire does indeed go on the inside terminal. You might want to check your grounds also. Lippy
Yes, the start wire goes to the inside post on solenoid. Check connections as that could be why you lost all power, both on the starter and the battery. EDIT: Maybe the ignition feed wire from the starter to the inside of the cab may be a fuse link wire? Not sure on 65, but if it is you might have burned the fuselink wire therefore loosing power....
Ya, I'm hoping for a fuse link somewhere that is just blown from the arcing with the wrench... Just found it curious that I lost all power everywhere....
also check the inside nuts on the starter to see that they are tight, the ones between the wire and starter
If you shorted the power wire to the starter out to ground, you probably burned a fuseable link. They are smaller wires connected between the battery and the starter intended to burn out if there is a direct battery short to protect the rest of the electrical system. I'm not sure when GM started using the fuseable links, if your ride does not have them, you need first to determine if the battery has any power left in it. The direct short may have actually killed the battery. It could have also ruined the connection between the battery and either battery post terminal. It also could have melted the sodder out of the cable terminal ends between the wire and the wire end. At this point, the best thing to do is use a test light and from the battery, check every connection for power until you find where you loose it. Once you find the source of your loss of battery power, then you can move the small wire to the correct starter post. Gene
Did you connect a ground strap from the block to the body? Usually there's one like bolted on the back side right head, runs to the firewall.
I'm pretty sure there is junction plug on the fire wall for the wire harness leading to the starter. Maybe it was bumped loose when the engines were swapped??
I believe the starter wires come thru the firewall on the pass side near the heater fan check those first. I also think the power wire that goes to the fuse block comes from the battery to a junction on the radiator support on the driver side then on thru to the fuse block. Check those and see if you have power then I would suggest tracing wires.
Actually, there is a wire that goes from the battery through the core support to the horn relay right above the voltage regulator. There are no fusible links between the starter and anywhere. This came on newer trucks. Your starter wire comes out of the firewall in a plug above the passenger side valve cover. My bet is that you reversed the wires on the starter. The yellow wire goes to the R terminal. The purple wire to the S terminal. My money says you have them backwards.
i had something similiar happen and it sounds like the fuseable link fried or just fried the batt power source wire on the starter which feeds the fuse box 12v which feeds the ignition switch 12v, atleast on mine it does, i could be wrong though.
If you're going to have the interior's main power wire off the starter, now would be an excellent time to install either a fusible link or a single high amp fuse. Because of the loom's age, it needs more protection due to corrosion and possible hidden breaks. Burndowns are bad. good luck
Got it going... The wire that connects from the starter to the harness had what seemed like some sort of fusible link... I'm not sure if it was bad or or not. Didn't look correct, so I cut it out and soldered in a new eyelet and moved the wire from the "R" lug over to the "S" lug. Installed the power wire for the starter and connected the battery. Got out the test light and began checking things... Everything seemed to have power. So, I went and turned on the ignition key and everything worked... Beats me, but I guess that the wire from the starter to the harness had some sort of link or something that was shorted. Or, just moving the starter wire from the "R" terminal to the "S" terminal solved the problem.... A round of thanks to all that helped... I am truly appreciative....
You removed a burned fusible link and now the truck's main power wire has no fused protection. Moving the small wire just allows it to crank. Good luck and carry a fire extinguisher.
Don't cheap out and loose your ride to an electrical meltdown or fire. Replace that fusable link NOW.
Most importantly and not to be forgotten check for a loose nut between the steering wheel and the seat.
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