Tube chassis...... let's see some pics!

Kevin, how's this T coming?? LOVE this car!!!

I KNOW you've got more picturs than THAT of tube frames you've built!!

 

Hot Rod Chassis , I want you to know that showing those pics is like showing porn...
r

 

hahahaha! Porn. Whenever Shoebox Mags hollers down to the studio when I'm on the computer wondering what I'm looking at. I always answer, "PORN!". At first, she used to rush down stairs to "catch me". After she found me enough times on Ebay/HAMB/Chrome Czars Board/ etc, she stopped running down stairs.

 

Nice! Great work!

 

I've done a little research on the tube chassis topic as I'm looking into building one for a project.. I've seen that the Chrome Moly tube chassis requires TIG welding to be NHRA compliant.. and the Mild Steel tubing chassis can be MIG welded. Assuming your using the .134" thick mild steel, would a 120 volt MIG be hot enough to make the proper welds for a chassis? Or.. should I start putting money into a Millermatic 180 before I put it into a tubing bender..? My MIG says it can do up to 3/16" thick.. and .134" is just over 1/8".. so presumably it should be sufficient (on paper at least) I'm just trying to cover my bases before I get started on the project. Thanks!

 

Zach, I love that frame ! The style is very simple but still functional. Maybe I should consider that style frame for my T Themed/Dodge bodied Modified.

41 Dave

 

REALLY like this chassis. Can you mail me one to Florida? Gary

 

car is ot , but handmade frame..

 

I like em

 

Here's the Crosley frame - 2X4 rectangular for the main frame. 1.75 round for the cage. Ovekill, I know, but it's STIFF !

 

Here's what's under my avatar


Frame kickup is mandrel bent.

Radius rod bosses and rear spring perches are welded through the frame, not onto it.

 

Looks really good!

 

x2 ... Your work is amazing, please post any other pictures you have

 

I have a Ghia chassis from Ron Lummus Racing. It's for a street car.

 

A friends chassis for a '35 cabriolet

 

This is just the beginning lower rails of a current project sitting on a box tube fixture i made for the project. They are chromemoly, 1 5/8 .083 lower rails. I am working more on the body but should be back on the frame next week.

 

I'm with this guy. I mean, I know that obviously a 220 welder would be ideal, but if the welder can handle it, what is the difference between the 110 and 220V welders? Is it in the amperage, or just duty cycle?

Little help?

Oh, awesome work from everyone BTW. I was just talking with Mercman1951 about this... it's amazing how anytime I have a question, there's usually a post on the main page with an answer.

JK

 

A 110v is ok for sheet metal, find a decent Miller 220v mig welder (the Miller 180 is an excellent choice). A 110v welder uses around twice the amperage than a 220v, plus you would be running the 110v near it's maximum capacity with a 10% duty cycle or less. I wouldn't weld a chassis with 110v welder, but that's just me.

 

Wow, that's beautiful.

Except the motor.

 

Quick question.. If I was to call the local metal mart and ask them for steel to build a chassis.. What would I ask for .. DOM, Mild Steel? seamless? I'm new to all this and am curious.. I can find specs for diameter and wall thickness but I know there are different types of tubing out there. I'm not planning on working with Chrome moly.. Not sure I could afford to build anything out of that just yet. (and don't really think my first tube chassis project needs to be chrome moly)

 

um... Anybody?

 

ERW (electric welded round) is satisfactory. Or, if you want to spend more, get DOM (drawn over mandrel).

 

I recently built a chopper frame and the dom tubing was really exspensive, chromemoly on the other hand is usually cheaper as you can get by with a thinner wall as it is so much stronger, thus saving money.

There are many opinions on welding c-moly with a wirefeed welder, one would probably be better off using a tig welder.

Electric welded would be the most user friendly, and cost efective. When i use electric welded tubing, round or square i allways try to place the weld seam at the bottom or inward from view as it makes for a nicer looking finished product. This mostly applies to square or rectangle, as sometimes the weld seam is sunken or uneven, and depending on manufacture it can be on the narrow, or wide side of rectangle tube.