just bought a 327,did i get ripped?

Thanks sam

 

would a man with hair that ugly lie? I don't think so.

 

I would check the cylinders for taper. I've never seen an older engine with no taper in a standard bore block and the second cylinder looks like it might have been ridge reamed.
Looking at your engine, I think you got a good deal, even if the cylinders have some taper in them.

 

no they were not. casting number 3956618 couldve been a 302 327 or 350 the only 4 bolt 327.. and even then it was uncertin because it could have been 2 bolt or 4 bolt but superchevy answered this a few months back and said there were factory 4 bolt 327s my brother actually has a small jounal 4 bolt main 327 that was out of a wagon.

 

cool,,ill have to see if i can have my buddy check it for me,he builds vw engines and most likley has the tools to do it,,thanks

 

Look and see if the suffix code is still on the front stamp pad. The last two letters will tell you (if its still there, and not machined off in over haul) what the motor was in and horsepower,etc.....just search "chevrolet engine codes"

 

the front stamp pad near the timing cover rite?,,its totally blank,,guess the numbers were not stamped too deep or they machined off alot,,oh wellnow its just a 327

 

Roll it up on TDC and try to wiggle the pistons in the bores, if the cyl walls look good and the pistons aren't sloppy loose, stick some good heads on it and run it! May not need anything! Looks like a deal to me, man, thats clean looking. Pop a couple rod and main caps off and have a peek, if all is well smoke em Bobby!

 

I've never seen a factory 4 bolt/small journal block and I've been working on engines for a while. Even the 67 302 Z-28 engines were 2 bolt main.

You could build a big journal/4 bolt main/327 pretty easily and the 3956618 is a big journal block.

Rule of thumb (I know there are probably exceptions) small journal blocks thru 1967, big journal from 68 up.

Larry T

 

ok ill try that,thanks for info,,never thought of that,,,figured i would need a inside mic,,,im hoping it dosent need anything either,,other than the rest of the parts to make it complete

 

No sir, you are wrong, If your brother had a 327 small journal 4-bolt, it is because somebody along the way made it into one, either by drilling a 327 small journal block to accomidate 4 bolt caps, or your brother had a de-stroked small journal 350, and was told it was a real 327.

And this is no secret! It is a fact that GM has NEVER put out a 327 block that was a 4-bolt block. FROM FACTORY OR RE-POP!

 

Never seen a factory small journal 350 either. Hot rodders build 1/4" stroke 327's that measured 352 though. They were pretty popular.
Larry T

 

the block came out of a 66 belair wagon. my brother had no idea but when he pulled the engine to put in a 50 chev pickup project he disassembled the engine and realized that it was a 4 bolt main. when he took it to the machine shop they freaked out when they ran the numbers and said that it was really rare and infact it was the orginal engine in the car and it was a small journal 4 bolt main 327. if you want to come over your more than welcome to pull the pan and see for yourself.

 

3 words: SOMEBODY DRLLED IT They never made a 4 bolt 327...its that simple.<!-- / message -->

Go to this site, and see if you can find a 327 listed as a 4-bolt...it doesn't exist! Every 327 ever produced is listed here. http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

 

More gas thrown into the fire! Did not the Vette and truck blocks have a higher nickel content in their cast iron? producing a more durable, wear resistant block?
Just asking.

 

The number on the block in the last picture of yours was 3782870.
My numbers book has it as a 62-65,327 corvette,passenger,chevelle,
or truck

 

Gotta go with Hyway Hauler, GM never made a 4 bolt 327. My dad was the general supervisor for the West Coast Parts warehouse, and I had every hipo number around. No 4-bolt 327's or I would not have had mine drilled for Moroso caps.

 

Look on the top of the front counterweight....I see numbers, probably a work order # in the center, and look for a 2 digit number on either side of that... like 10...10 or something. Shops always write the undersize on the counterweights. Mains are usually written on the left (looking down on it), mains on the right. So if it said (reading left to right) 10 1689 10, it would mean 10 under mains, work order 1689 and rods 10 under.
Hope this makes sense.

 

ok i was wonering what that is on the crank,,thanks for the info

 

I'd take the parts to your VW motor building buddy and just measure it all up. After buying a book on sizes and how and where to measure the part's. A good learning project. Even a CHilton or Haynes will give you the necessary sizes. If the crank is ground 10/10 you'll know for sure and can order the appropriate bearing's. As for the cam did you get the lifter's with it? Do you know which lifter came from which lifter boss? If not it would be safer to change both as they wear in together, each lifter to cam lobe.

 

i do have a hpbooks "how 2 rebuild your small block chevy" book,,i plan on asking my friend to come by and take a look soon,the lifters are half missing,,so i need new lifters,,the ones that are there are in good condition,,dont have hardly any wear at all if any,the cam from what i can see is the same,,only number i see on it so far is e8 and it still has assembly lube on it,and i just noticed that is has a dampner stamped "china",,wtf?

 

I wonder if you could raise the numbers on the block with acid, csi style....

 

i thought that too,like when they do it to guns whose numbers had been ground off,,that would be cool

 

your motor has been decked

all 327's had forged cranks

they never made a 4 bolt 327

the casting number just gets you a ballpark of what it is, if the deck stamping was there then you could figure out what it was.

but it really doesnt matter, you got a good deal on a 327.

i just cant believe this post went to 5 pages to figure all that out!

have fun with it!

jeff

 

That would be a really long distance phone call. Ed Hale passed away over 5 years ago.

Ed did machine work on two engines for me.

 

If you don't know much about engines, take it to someone who does. Have it taken apart and checked out good. Usually motors get pulled and pulled apart for a reason. Think if you went to all the trouble to build it back up and have something fail in the short block, could ruin alot of stuff. Plus being already down to the short block your only talking a hour or two to have it all checked out. That is a steel crank my looking at the casting line, been ground, cast cranks will have a thin casting parting line, it also has non-factory pistons with the standard stamped in them. Just check it out before you finish the build and you'll be more comfortable with it in the long run. It's always been buyer beware with second hand engines pulled and pulled apart for what ever reason in my book.

 

In you middle picture above, is that a scratch on the cam lobe, or just some funky reflection? If it's a scratch I'd take the motor apart and make sure it's all sound.

 

Someone correct me if im wrong but wasnt 69' the only year for large journal 327 and this stuff about a 4 bolt 327 is a crock of s**t. Looks like you got a good deal on a good engine

 

Maybe 68 too, but if you wanted to build a large journal 327 (even 4 bolt) you could use a 350 block and a 307 crank (through 73).
Larry T

 

You can mix and match all you want, but don't forget to get it balanced afterwards......