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I need your help - Again (Rear Suspension, Hot Rod)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Martin_F, Nov 4, 2009.

  1. Alright, I was working on the rear suspension for my 36 Ford truck for a couple of days now.
    So I got everything mocked up now and would like to check with you guys before I weld it in.

    So lets see some pics:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Does that look solid enough for you??
    I'll add the brackets within the ladder bars and a panhard bar.

    I also got a geometrical question:
    As you have seen, I have the rear jacked up right now.
    So when I weld the ladder bars in now, will it change the pinion angle when it's sitting on it's own weight??
    I was scratching my head, but couldn't figure it out...
    My guess would be that the joke will point down, but I'm not sure.
    Is there any way I can keep the pinion angle right??

    Here is a link to the whole build thread, if you're interested:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4517051#post4517051

    [​IMG]

    Thanks guys!
    Martin
     
  2. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,192

    manyolcars

    are your shocks at the recommended 30 degrees?
     
  3. Normal Norman
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 510

    Normal Norman
    Member
    from Goshen IN.

    Martin, It looks good! The pinion angle will change as the suspension moves up and down. With your set up it pivots in an arc with it anchored at the trans crossmember. Nothing wrong with that at all, I just like to set up that type with it at ride hight. That way the pinion angle is usually about right most of the time. N.N
    Jsut a thought On the shock question. Iv'e alwayse been told that 30% was the max amout of angle, I prefer 15% or on a drag car 0%.
     
  4. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,192

    manyolcars

    The cab of that truck was a 1935
     

  5. Zombie Hot Rod
    Joined: Oct 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,452

    Zombie Hot Rod
    Member
    from New York

    Yep, you should set your pinion angle at ride height.
     
  6. doctorZ
    Joined: Apr 10, 2006
    Posts: 1,271

    doctorZ
    Member

    the pinion will change, but that's all adjustable back to normal with your ladder bars. the only thing i would change would be to use rubber insulated joints on the crossmember end of the ladders. using steel on both ends with no insulation will cause a lot of stress and vibration on all the welded joints.
     
  7. How about a PANARD bar?
     
  8. 32ratsass
    Joined: Dec 14, 2007
    Posts: 258

    32ratsass
    Member

    On his original post, he said he was installing a panhard bar. Looks good so far. Even the coil over angle looks fine. Just set pinion angle at ride height.
     
  9. Dragons
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 116

    Dragons
    BANNED
    from Topock,AZ

    Make sure your pinion angle is close and go for it. Looks good.
     
  10. mj40's
    Joined: Dec 11, 2008
    Posts: 3,303

    mj40's
    Member

    Just wondering why you mounted the coilovers in front of the axle? Most mount to the rear so they can show them off. Will you be removing the orginal spring cross member?
     
  11. Thanks for your answers guys!
    What I read about coilovers was that the max angle would be 30 degrees, and the optimal about 15. But the bigger the angle the less force the coil overs can take.
    So mine are between 10 and 15 now. This way I don't have to get one of those crazy strong springs ;)

    Panhard Bar: yes, I'll install one, I am just not sure about the position yet. I'm thinking on the back of the axle (where the axle housing and the housing cover come together) since I have the coil overs installed in the front.
    Which I was told is not a problem, but the wouldn't clear in the back of the axle.
    They'd hit the original cross member. I don't want to cut the original cross member out though... I'll keep it for later. Since the axle is in the right (original) position it wouldn't be a problem to reuse it one day.

    I checked on the rubber rod ends, and will try to get some...
    Is that something I'd need not to crack something, or just for a smooth ride??

    Alright, so my plan is, to spot weld the brackets on the transmission mount, then drop it down to ride height, check the pinion angle and weld the brackets on the back.
    Since the axle is already parallel to the rear crossmember, it shouldn't be a problem to get the pinion right again.

    Here's a shot from the back:
    [​IMG]
    and one where you can see the coil over angle:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks everyone and I'll post my progress!!
    Martin
     
  12. i'd angle the shock a bit more , maybe drill another set of holes in the top crossmember.

    and yes , set your pinion angle at ride height. i don't use the coilovers for setup , i use a set of bars with the proper spacing eye to eye on them
     
  13. here's the update on my rear suspension, as promised.

    I ordered a set of these polymer rod ends and got them in today.
    So I mocked everything up again, and tack welded the first bracket on each side in. then I switched back to the old ends to weld them fully in. this way I didn't meld them totally ;)

    [​IMG]

    I also made brackets for the panhard bar and welded them in.
    love how I can adjust the axle in and out now!!
    [​IMG]
    well, guess that's what it's for ;)

    Then I dropped the rear down to ride height and set the pinion angle.
    spot welded the brackets on the rear and removed the hydraulic jack that was setting the angle. You know what happened then, the pinion dropped down. DAMN!!
    So I did it all over again.

    So here is what it looks like:
    [​IMG]

    I got the pinion angle within 1 degree, but it's hard for me to measure...
    do you guys think that's close enough??

    Here's how I got the readings:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I measure 2-3 degrees at the rear end and 3-4 and the tranny...
    Is there a better way to measure?? I was thinking about the carb plane, so I'll remove the carb tomorrow and check that...

    Thanks for any help...
     
  14. brandon
    Joined: Jul 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,368

    brandon
    Member

    worse case remove the spring from the coil overs and use a piece of exhaust tubing.
     
  15. any thoughts about the pinion angle question??
     
  16. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    It's close enough for government work. Go with it.
     
  17. A few posts back, Doctorz addressed it.
    You are close enough now,
    after all is said and done, ride height is established with the full weight of all components you will be able to move your pinion angle with the ladder bar connection at the rear end, that is providing its not at the limits of full adjusment position.
     
  18. you're right, I wasn't thinking about that...
    So the lenght of the ladder bars will do it.
    I should have plenty of movement on them.

    Thanks guys for all your answers!!
     
  19. GasserDave
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 132

    GasserDave
    Member
    from Sin City

    You look spot on with the angles. I just got through all the same stuff as you and I had come up with the exact numbers. I welded mine solid so turning back now... The initial setting of the pinion should be 3-5 degrees. It will change or can be changed later to match your trans output angle. The angles some from the shock /axle brackets at 2 degrees offset on the housing and I pulled another 3 from the lower bars....Hope it helped. A little reassurance is all we need. Id weld it brother!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     

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