Welder Series crossmember plates

Wow, you work fast!! I should get you to do the install videos

Asking for templates in a thread isn't nearly as bad as someone coming in to the store, asking to see a plate, a piece of paper, and a pen and sit there and trace it right on the counter. Yes, it's been done.

Oh well... we'll keep our focus on customers.

 

well dw, i only have a 16meg card for my camera for vid's, only be 15seconds long,lol.... This being done fast has to do with the clear instructions, and talking with you thru-out this process. plus want it on the ground so i can roll it out for the first time in 2yrs.

 

oh, thanx for the little stickers too, and the 3 books,, i gave the other 2 away.

 

That's good to hear. If you have any suggestions on how to make the instructions better, please let me know.

 

The guys on Trucks recently put one of these cross members in their 50's chevy truck they are building. They walked right through it step by step. Looked very well thought out and pretty much idiot proof. Probably a lot cheeper to ship small flat boxes too.

 

i have been quoted 350US plus shipping (roughly 245US) to eastern canada for a premade crossmember (plus duty and taxes,etc), or from a local speed shop a heidts crossmember kit is 700 canadian. i got the welder series one for 200 canadian and shipping was 15 (if i ordered it all at once but i ordered them seperately and shipping was only 30.)...total time to cut,bend and weld the crossmember and top parts together was maybe less then 2hrs (with coffee breaks, throwing the sticks for the dogs,etc).. I found the instructions real clear and detailed. Idiot proof actually, i did it

 

welded up the towers and cut 1 side coil bracket set, installed and tacked into place, installed a temp. shock. .

 

I have been buying parts & pieces from Paul & D.W. for years & The quality of the stuff they sell is top notch. The customer service and patience for stupid questions is even better. I would recommend them to anyone who needs parts but wants to do most of the work themselves.

Paul & D.W. are good people.

 

I'll second that..Great to deal with!!

 

finally got a chance to finish the crossmember and weld it all up..

 

all finsihed awhile ago, forgot to add a pic

heres with the rack, arms and spindles and shock height templates on

 

heres a profile shot of the ride height with the MII front end. Ride height is prefect.. When the motor and shocks are on I will update..

 

Got that thing running yet?

 

close,lol

 

New guy here and just found this thread from a link over at Fordfe.com. This looks like a very good and economical way to do a MII style front end which is what I'm wanting to do to my '64 Fairlane. One question though, your upper arms look to have a lot of angle in them, shouldn't they be closer to level or will they level out when you install the coil-overs and wont this raise the ride height?

 

I have used the Welder Series parts for several projects. Check out their website and look at the catalog. Sometimes it is easier and cheaper to order their kits than to fabricate the stuff yourself. They sell a wide variaty of brackets, gussets and mounts as well as they will build stuff to your sketches. They will sell either turn key stuff ready to paint or just a kit with all of the parts cut out and ready for you to weld up.

 

should level out when its all together

 

Tough to see in the pic, but did you build in anti-dive into the upper control arm mounts?

 

as per instructions, yep.. and i am using stock upper arms now, those are different arms (for a superride 2 suspension).. once its all totgether i will post anotehr pic, but i tore it all apart right now for easier access to firewall,frame rails,etc.

 

i am finishing off the front frame



and making a new firewall

 

going over the post i relaized i never posted pix of the final stance with the crossmember set up, and car stance...so heres how the car sits (no motor in) with the MII installed and components on.. Im using aldan adjustable coil over shocks with 500lb springs in the front so it should stay there.