Hello to all. I am new to flatheads and have a small problem. If anybody can help please give a newbie some advice. I have an 8BA with 2 strombergs and offenhauser 375 heads, MSD coil and distributer. Last week the spark plug hole stripped out on the heads so i opted to install new offy 400 heads. This is the only thing that has changed but now for the life of me i just cant get her to kick over. Here is what i did; Removed MSD and old heads, cleaned block surface, brought number one up to TDC, reinstalled new gasket and heads, reinstalled MSD and all wires in proper location, installed new spark plugs. I have double checked everything but i know it has to be somthing simple and stupid im forgetting. I even tried starter fluid but she wouldent kick it over. The funny thing is i pulled all the plugs layed em up to the head and they all fire i can see it spark so im stumped. Got spark Got fuel What else? If anybody can help let me know. thanks
Do you have fuel in the tank your gauge might not be reading correctly. Probably alot of people on here with alot of flathead experience good luck.
Put the crankshaft pulley on the timing mark. Usually a small bead on the rim. Pull the dizzy cap and see which plug wire the rotor is pointing to. Remember #1 cylinder is in the front on the passenger side. The firing order is 1 5 4 8 6 3 7 2 with the cylinders on the passenger side being 1 2 3 & 4. The rotor turns clockwise if I remember correctly. If the rotor is pointing to number one wire and it still will not start, rotate the crank one full turn and reset the rotor to #1 plug wire and try it again. Keep us posted.
if you have spark and fuel i think the only think left is timing. do you even get a backfire through the exhaust or carb?
Yes the rotor is turning. But i dont get a backfire through the carbs or exhaust. Yes it has gas i checked. When i put together the engine i brought #1 up on TDC the intake valve closed and the marks on the crank lined up with the pully. I then installed the head and installed the msd. At which point i lined up the rotor with the number one plug and reinstalled the cap. Batt is in good working order.
By kick over do you mean to "fire" or just turn over? If it does not turn over try shorting around the starter replay with jumper cables from the battery to the hot end of the starter cable downstream of the starter relay. If you mean "fire", is the rotor installed, does the coil have the pos and neg wires in the correct position {are you getting a blue spark}? do you have a good ground wire from the block to the firewall as all origional Fords did {watch this one}? Are you running 6 volts or 12 volts, If 12 v then be sure and run an ignition resister in the 'run' circuit (to utilize 12v to start and 6 volts to run similar to a 56 ford by using the later Ford starter relay that has two small wire terminals- will save points and condenser).
Lippy the spark is blue white if that makes sense. sr i belive they are actually lower comp than the previous offy heads i did not cc the chambers but buy the look of them they are larger volume. Fox yes by kick over i mean fire she turns over fine but wont fire. It is a 12v system. Yes rotor is installed and there is a couple of grounding straps through out the bay area one from block to frame and one from block to firewall.
Leave the ether can alone. Fuel AT the carbs? Accelerator pumps work? Pull the plugs, wet or dry? You say the spark is blue so it's hot. Double check that timing also. This MSD is electronic right? If it was points I'd say put it on #1 compression and adjust the dist where the points just start to break, that would get you close enough to start it. Take a compression check if it still won't fire. Lippy
Lippy took a compression check today 100 psi on all 8. Yes there is fuel at the carbs plugs are dry when pulled but have a fuel smell on them. yes msd is electronic ill go through the timing again tomorrow afternoon. what should i be looking for with the accelerator pumps? tell me how to diagnose that.
Will the engine draw a wet charge of air/fuel mix into the cylinder area? What I have done in the past on not-run-in-a-long-time flatheads is this: 1. Pull the plugs and add a double shot of engine oil with a oiling can to each cylinder. This will seal the rings and the valves, thereby, drawing in a charge of air/fuel into the combustion chamber and keeping the charge sealed in when the spark plugs fire. Turn the engine over a few times to move the oil around. 2. Clean the spark plugs off with a brass brush or put new properly gapped plugs (.035) back in with a little oil on the threads. 3. Run a point file over the points if they're not new to get them shiny and flat to both surfaces. Replace points and condenser if the points are ratty, gap to .016. 4. Make sure the carb gets a good squirt of #1 gas from a squirt bottle in each barrel of the carb. 5. Connect up a 12V battery to the starter relay. This will make sure the engine gets a good spin to immediately build up compression, have good spark (blue/white)at the plugs and the points to ignite the fuel mixture. 6. Hold the foot feed to the floor, so it has plenty of air to fire the first charge of raw fuel off. 7. Crank that puppy over for 15 to 20 seconds and/or to START. If it fires in that time, but won't stay lit, stop cranking. Put in one squirt of gas, pull the choke on, and then crank for another 15 to 20 seconds or till start and running takes place. Feather choke as required. Note: That oil in the cylinders will last for 3 or 4 start cycles before the raw gas will wash down the rings and lower compression and air draw. You will have to repeat it. Good luck.
I noticed while I was writing some more info came up. Put a jumper battery or vehicle on to that 12V system to make sure that you have the quick turning of the engine and good spark. Connect up a timing light and check the timing while turning over the vehicle. Just a thought, how's that timing chain?
Do you have the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke? Having it on the exhaust has been the cause for many of flatheads not wanting to start.
Yikes! I missed that one. To be clear, folks, #1 cylinder on a flathead is the front passenger side. Good catch, j ripper!
"brought number one up to TDC,....." If all you wanted to do was change the heads, not sure why you did this. You could'a noted the location of the dizzy rotor and put it back together the same way. Years ago I blew a plug on an XK120, I just put in a thread insert without removing the head or touching the dizzy... Oh well too late to say anything except agree that your problem is timing.....
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