Like I said "fine side to side", but there is no way that is adequate "up and down". If you think it is, please do not build any frames. It needs to be fixed, and correctly. No feel good kumbaya crap, before someone gets hurt.
Absolutely brilliant! i'm also into replacing efi with carbs for simplicity and easy maintenance. However, in this case, if the s-10 is 91, then i'm ASSuming that the 4.3 has no distributor and the coil ignition is also computer controlled? So, when the fuel injection is eliminated, does the ignition run just fine (apparently in the video it does) with no issues? In this case, the two are not interelated? Also, i'm ASSuming that the 4.3 has a stock chevy fuel pump provision which makes the carb conversion even easier?
So I guess its a good Idea that I added the 1-1/4 thick wall box tubing bar connecting the shock towers 2 inches from the notch for extra strength huh? (see picture); Guys, Youtube has a 10 minute limit on all videos loaded, I would have done an in depth look at every single modification I did if there was time allowed; My point was to spur some ideas for people, to show that with very little cash, you can drive a fun old car to work reliably. I finished this car about a year ago, and only finished editing it now and loaded it up. For almost a year now, it has been making my 40 mile commute to work and back. I do drive without a speedometer, gas guage, heater, etc. It is a bare bones ride. 2 weeks ago, I hit a huge freeway temp road repair at about 75 mph and because the car is so low i ended up about jumping the damn thing, when coming down the frame slammed on the ground pretty darn hard. For people familiar with s10 frames, you know the frame is easily the lowest part of the car. Anyhow, nothing happend except I carried some blacktop with me down the road. And when I got home, inspected everything, and there are NO cracks or anything stressed. For people not familar with the rear of s10 frames, there is a factory structural crossbeam rivited to the frame connecting the 2 sides 6 inches from the front of the C-notch. My crossbeam I added is 2 inches behind the C notch. There is NO STRENGTH ISSUE with this car, it has been working great, and I have pushed it pretty hard. I have also slammed on the brakes from 50 mph and locked up all 4 wheels and it stopped REALLY fast and hurt nothing (most importantly the car in front of me). I also didnt run into the car in front of me cause it now has disk brakes and bigger rear drum brakes then stock. ZMAN, As for jb weld and "Do it right the first time", Im not going to "properly" weld 9 million trim holes on a 4-door ford that was rusted out, painted 3 times by worse then Earl Schieb, and has a skim coat of bondo covering the whole car. This car will NEVER be straight, and isnt worth anthing if it was. (thats the point of using this car) And its a pretty good cheap fix, considering it doesnt fall out like when people bondo the holes. So i also shouldnt have cut the spare tire area out of the trunk and reshaped for the gas tank to fit Also shouldnt have used spray cans Also shouldnt have used 30 dollars worth of sheet metal to repair the gaping holes in the floors when using factory floors would have been "the right thing to do" I shouldnt have cut half the factory inner front fender/engine bay so that i could do my swap shouldnt have made my complete exaust without a bender I shouldnt have ruined that stock radiator that was already destroyed; I definatley shouldnt have made my doors line up nicely by jacking the car up by the door (drivers door needs latch adjusted still though) Shouldnt have used 4 inch lowering blocks and removed 2 leaves when buying lowered leaf springs and/or bagging it would be better I shouldnt have used the stock tank that was full of rust, the right thing to do would be to replace it or "professionally" reseal it. Instead i washed it out and used 2 filters that i replaced 3 times in the first 3 months of driving I shouldnt have wired the lights with generic autozone wire, ignition switch, headlight switch, when buying a wiring harness and proper switches would have been the "right thing to do". ($30 and 2 hours was better to me) I shouldnt have cut a astro van u-joint and welded it back together when buying a proper one would have been "the right thing to do" I shouldnt have cut out the complete radiator support structure, just so I couldn use the S10 radiator and the factory s10 hoses. "the right thing to do" would have been to buy a radiator that propersly fits the stock support and not cut up the factory stuff. I shouldnt have welded in the s10 pedel assembley to the underside of the dash, cause that is definatly not reversable, and not the "the right thing to do" I shouldnt have cut a 3 inch by 4 foot hole under the back seat so that I could have the stock S10 frame support come up through (i didnt want to cut this out, cause it is rivited to the frame and crucial for support) My car drives, stops, corners, safer then many old fords. Certainly stock shoebox's. I bolted it together very tight, reinforced the frame in several areas, and did it for as cheap as possible. I made the video because i saw many people that wanted a old shoebox, didnt have much money, and were kinda bummed cause they wouldnt see there car on the road practially without spending mass amounts of money and mass amounts of time. My way might not be the best way, but it works for me, and i like the view on my way to work through a split front window and rusty dash.
I dig it. We can't all have $30,000+ cars can we? Good low buck driver! Don't get down by the thread bashers....I can see you learned alot.
now what is this supposed to show me? I don't see anything that is adding structure to the notch vertically, but then I can't tell much from the picture. sounds like you reinforced the shock towers, still wondering about the notch.
i understand both points of view on the notch. however i think it will be fine and is plenty strong. its also bolted to the body on each end of the notch. i aint going anywhere.. nice job on turning that ol toilet int a nice lookin daily driver..
Hey thanks for the comment, its nice to hear some good stuff too! I respect people that turn out some really nice expensive rides, and i have a soft spot for the guys that are broke like me, and cant afford or dont have the time, or maybe both. I mentioned to one guy on here, but just in case wanted to mention a neighbor of mine has an original 64 cyclone in his backyard. It is a 289 hi po and automatic, with the factory tack on the dash. Its not super cheap, but I bet he would make a deal for the rite person. Message me if your interested! His father baught it new in 1963
I stand by my opinion that the notch is fine. That will not bend if you tried. Just because it doesn't look exactly like you expect doesn't mean it's automatically worthless. Sheesh. Zman, what do you sell C-notch kits, and you're pissed he didn't buy one, or what? jpaull, you are hereby obligated to keep us all updated on the status of your frame. I want to know the minute this frame bends. Fair enough? Good luck with the rest of your reasonable project.
I had some concerns with the thickness of the notch, just keep an eye on it and watch for signs of flex, cracking paint would be the first. There are ways to stiffen it up with a little creativity. Overall, a great tutorial and you have an excellent ride there. Bob
....the guy did a good job , he built it himself, I think he did a good job. It's not what I would have built , but I'm not bashing it because of that. And about that c notch, I agree with the other guys , if you load the trunk with bags of cement it might break. good job have fun.
Alot of people on here like to over engineer stuff. Dont let it get you down. Looks good, sounds good and for the money, is good. As long as you dont off-road it. Thanks for taking the time to post the vid!
Water in the headlights has to be the best! Ever thought about putting goldfish in there? that's a custom detail you don't see too often. 2 goldfish at $1.29 each might not blow the budget too bad......
[QUOTE=I Drag;4470 Just because it doesn't look exactly like you expect doesn't mean it's automatically worthless. Sheesh. Zman, what do you sell C-notch kits, and you're pissed he didn't buy one, or what? really, you go back and edit your post to" call out z-man?" the dude owns a shop that does some killer work,and he is a great contributor to this board with his Buick and general knowledge, do some home work before you call out a well respected member. now back to the thread at hand. i like the enthusiasm that you have to get it done. i don't agree with some of your options, but it ain't my car! i think what z man and others are saying is you have all your strength with your 1x4" box tube running sideways and your shock tower doing the same, great for side movement but not going to help with your frame bowing. the solid mount body will help, but with a leaf spring rear end in it, its just a matter of time before the flex takes it toll. you'll be able to spot it one day when your jb weld is popping out and your quarters are bulcked. dont mean to bash you, just i think people are way to quick to defend then to just listen to a few people that just may know what their talkin about? maybe your right and we're wwwwwrrrrroooo........??
I don't sell frame notch kits, I do however know that Gambino does. I tend to build mine from scratch. I also like to not have to think about the car after it's done. Ya know do something crazy like drive half way across the country to hang with friends, hammer it down the strip a couple times, then drive it home. Oh wait I did that in August. I guess we're lucky he doesn't have a stout motor in there. The temptation to put your foot in it could twist it up nice. lol, the new guys are all a little thin skinned it seems. Hell he could have doubled up on top of the notch and had the super notch. It'd be real easy to make it right. And the the "over" engineering comment tickled me. It's actually just engineering something period.
Hey Pir8Darryl,<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> RE: Convert your 4Door to a 2Door<o></o> Youre pretty snazzy on You-Tube, regarding your bodywork. That Video was GREAT!<o></o> On that 4Dr to 2Dr conversion, did you have any problems with state registration or would you have trouble conveying title to a potential buyer?<o></o> I like the idea of buying cheep, dime a dozen 4Dr ShoeBox Chevy, only if Im able to sell it later with no Title issues <o></o> I am in the process of chopping the top ( 2 ½ inches ) on my 56. Do you know of anyone who can make a rear deck-lid glass? The rest of the glass will be cut to fit, molded to shape, except the Rear, since its tempered<o></o> Any help will be appreciated.<o></o> Thanks,<o></o> 56Chevy4Dr
hell yeah!! thats badass! i like the final result! and with the v6 you get almost the same sound as an I6. top notch!! no pun intened haha
We live and learn, if the notch holds up, good for you.If it doesn't next time you know.I too am building a pretty budget minded 4dr 50 Shoebox, but I'll be the first to admit I'm no stuctural engineer, I went with a Gambino kit, mostly for piece of mind.I think you did a good job on the frame swap,and admire your ambition.
awsome, i wanted to do this to my car but wasn't sure about everything bolting up to the frame and the track widths working out in order to slam it and still be able to roll. I love it man. thats a buddy and mines idea of a hot rod, slam and roll baby!
I just don't know how us old school hot rodders ever built our rides before the s-10 chevy frame came around.
thanks for taking the time to post the video - cool car, and shows a lot of good ol' hot rod ingenuity!
Jeff, Thanks for the video,I'm doing a 50 ,have the frame extended and waiting for back surgery to heal,then will finish it,wondered about thr frame brace just forward of the rear end,would like to have more info on how to do the body mounts,Thanks again Jeff,wouldnot have tackled if if not for the video
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