RO has a primer..not sure if its a primer only for use of RO..but they sell rustoleum primer seen it in black, grey, and red oxide ive used regular old enamel primer before with no problems
I love my cheap Rustoleum paint job on my O/T work truck! I just did the top half of my two tone Dodge. I went from flaking and peeling silver with brown rust showing on the hood and top to a gloss black that has mellowed into a pretty good looking finish, probably between "semi gloss" or "satin" in 3 years. Used a spray can for the hard to reach areas and thinned the paint with mineral spirts for use with a 4" foam roller for the large surface areas. Big Bad Dad
Mr. Cool, care to share a little more on ratios between paint, acetone and hardener. And also some details on the whole process would be great.
can we buy rustoleum paint in canada?, tremclad is made by rustoleum, is tremclad exactly the same i wonder.
yeah should be the same stuff...theres lots of rustoluem /tremclad paint jobs out there if you google it
I just repainted my old shop truck with Rustoleum gloss black. I sanded and painted it within two hours. No taping necessary. I did all the trim with a brush and the larger parts with a roller. What was my goal? First to slow down the rust so the truck lasts alittle bit longer. Second goal was to keep from being pulled over poor by the police. The truck looks clean enough and only costs me $9 in paint. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do
I started by pouring one quart of Rustoleum GLOSS Sunrise Red into a empty 1 gallon container that was marked with incrimental measurments on the side. I then slowly added Rustoleum FLAT BLACK a few ounces at a time, mixed it up. I kept adding the FLAT BLACK until I got the shade I liked. It worked out to a 2 PARTS RED to 1 PART FLAT BLACK for my color. This yielded me 1.5 quarts of color. I purchased some VALSPAR ENAMAL HARDENER from my local TRACTOR SUPPLY store. The small bottle was around $12.00 and treats 1 gallon of paint. I just put little less than half of it in my mixure of paint and follwed the directions on the hardener to get it activated. I then thinned out the paint/hardener mix with some ACETONE...I thinned it down with about 15oz of acetone. Shot it at 35psi and was dry to the touch in about 1 hour @75* outside driveway temp. NO runs, but the bugs liked it...got about a half dozen Kamakazi insects in the paint!! I only did minimal body work prior to paint..cause I was not going a smooth, freshly painted look...I wanted the car to look more like it has been around for some time with a faided paint job and some dings/dents. I got the luster and finish I wanted and am very pleased with the outcome. Tom <!-- / message -->
Damn right I'm going to do this to my slightly off topic Olds! Never thought that one would ever make it out of primer but now I have hope! Thanx for the details. Your car looks great! My kid allways wants to help me do stuff, I guess he gets to paint a car now. OK to color sand/buff this stuff?
I did a test like that once, mixing satin black and gloss black in varying proportions from 90:10 all the way up to 10:90. I did find a brew I liked for one particular job I did. No photos, alas. Like in this thread, I wanted something that looked old.
Im looking for a sheen if you will but not flat, but not glossy and some where up from semi gloss ..guess i can play with it a little till i see what im after. I guess its really just an inexpensive enamel, I have used alot on equipment at work and it stands up to a pretty harsh life
Yes, I was looking for something between satin (not flat) and glossy. I don't remember what I ended up using, but it doesn't matter since I have no pictures, anyway.
I can mess with it and make some panels to see where it gets the look im after..something to play with after getting my chassis done
Hey, With the money you guys will save on your paint costs, PLEASE! PLEASE!spend the savings on a good respirator, and no, I'm not talkin' a box of ''titty cups'' ! The hardeners, ketones, xylenes, toluenes, hell even the mineral sprits are way tougher on your liver and kidneys than a fifth of Old Grand a day ever dreamed of bein'! Swanky Devils C.C. " I like the old millennium better "
I was curious about cost per gallon and also per quart, so I took a quick trip down to Lowe's Home Improvement store. The gallons are $26.88 and the quarts are $8.58. They don't carry any hardners for paint. You can use several type of hardners for oil based enamel. One of the oldest type is Japan Drier. It's specifically for oil-based paints, and that is what you are looking for. One-Shot, stripers enamel is also an oil-based enamel, so their hardner is good to use with the rust-oleum paint. If you go to your auto-body supply you may find they also carry an oil-based enamel hardner. It will probably fall into the universal hardner catagory. Make sure you get OIL-BASED products to go with oil-based paint, or you will have a mess on your hands. Acetone is probably not the best product to thin your oil-based paint with. It will work, just like laquer thinner will work. There is a down-side to using these 'hotter' solvents. They actually thin the oil on a molecular level, breaking down the surface tension of the oil molecule itself. This action shortens the lifespan of the paint considerably, it can also cause adhesion issues. Thin using mineral spirits, turpentine, tolulene or xylene these are much cooler chemicals, and don't damage the oil in the oil-based paint. Some people who paint alot with oil-based enamels will use a combination of several different thinners for better flow and quicker drying times. My Favorite is mineral spirits, and one-shot hardner, with a little bit of turpentine. Use the One-Shot as directed, and only thin as much as you have to, to get the paint to flow-out. Don't over thin. With oil-based enamels you apply multiple thin coats, or it's going to run. What a thin coat amounts to depends on the temperature/humidity you are painting in. Try a test sample before you go for the car itself. Apply a single coat and stand back to watch. Give it 15-30 minutes, while you are checking for the paint to flash/become less viscous/have a surface tack. You check the paint by touching it lightly with your finger. It's ready for a second coat, when the paint doesn't transfer as much as fresh sprayed paint does. You will still get some paint on your finger, but you will be able to tell when it's setting up. Put on the same amount as the first coat, again using the same time frame while you check the drying cycle. What you are looking for is the paint to flow out/get a smooth top as the layers blend. If it starts to sag, or just plain runs, you need to go lighter coats or longer dry time between coats, or less thinner. This stuff isn't like catalysed urathane, and takes more time/patience to apply. Relax, don't get in a big hurry and your paint job will come out fine. Two-tones and other masking tricks will require adequate drying time or the tape will melt into the very slowly curing paint. What happens is: solvents are venting out through the top surface of the paint. This occures for a lot longer than you'd expect. If you tape to this surface too soon the trapped solvents beneath the tape build up and remelt the surface of the paint that the tape is stuck to. The tape ends up submerging into the paint, only to have it setup around it, much like dinosaurs in the tar-pits! Now you've got a problem! The tape won't come out, you have to sand it out, and repaint that area. To avoid this happening to you use your test sample to determine when you can tape off. If the test sample won't handle it, you gotta wait! As you paint your car make sure you use your test sample. Give it just as many coats as your car, it will warn you when you are rushing things. That last coat, the one you want to really lay down, and gloss out, you can add an additional amount of mineral spirits, but not too much or you will flow for too long, which causes sags/runs. Just a few paint tips from the oil-based enamel world! Dan Stevens dba, steelsmith
Steelsmith...With regular Enamel car paint I used to like to put on a first light coat and then let it set up until touching the back of your finger (between the 1st and 2nd knuckle) off the masking tape next to the fresh paint, would pull the paint you touched clear off the masking tape as it stuck to your finger. If it was wet enough to just paint your finger with the wet paint then it was still too liquid to recoat. If you waited until the paint didn't stick to your finger and pull off, then you had waited too long and needed to reapply a wetter coat then normal to get good flow...tricky at best due to the chance of runs. That little test always worked well for me up in our cool climate but of course might be totally useless in a warmer area. Then came CENTARI and everything changed!!!!!
The Jalopy Journal
