Hot Rods OCTOBER BANGER THREAD not so frightening yet.

Nice pieces Bill. Can you post a picture of the combustion chamber on the head please?

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any tips on some rework would be a big help

 

"B" engine mount's holes are 9" apart, so it might well do.

 

I'll second that - Great score.

Maybe its time for a BANGER HEAD Thread.

You know - all the different brands, their history, and a show of their combustion chambers, incl cc'ing them too.

 

I'd love that too.

The FAST news letter has been publishing pictures, but they are not always as inclusive as I would hope.

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I found this on the Windfield carb

NEW LINK
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/winfieldrebuildkit.htm

http://www.fordgarage.com/

 

Hey I talked to sawracer today actually saturday, He still has those covers. Mine is one of the first ones and the later ones he makes are supposed to be better

 

Yes, I was just going to contact you to let you know I mailed Sawracer and he told me he can ship one to Belgium. So I'm OK.
Thanks,
Eddy

 

Banger Head Thread- Oh Yes!!! I Would like to get the most bang for the Buck. What Mods are needed to get max HP out of them.

 

BCCHOPIT, Have you been to the Thompson Swap Meet? Do they have any Banger Speed Parts? Its coming up and its in your area. Thanks

 

The first thing I would do with that Winfield settup is check the serial number on the float chamber. It will have a BU or a BD this will tell you if it is an updraft or a downdraft. The way it is in the photo the float chamber is an updraft unless it is just bolted on upside down The throttle chambers can be run either up or down but float chambers can only be used as marked. The really best way to check is the location of the idle screw. I have a float chamber marked as an updraft but was machined as a down draft. With the float chamber facing you the down draft has the idle needle on the right side, up draft on the left. On the very bottom there is the size and orientation cast in the float chamber. There was an article in the S O S S magazine describing adapters to convert from up to down or vice versa. I have made conversions to side draft.

 

Looks like a fun car Zach!!


Roadster is completly down for it's V8 implant....don't fret though, this ol banger has powered two of my cars already so if I run across an ol A of some sort she'll ride again
Before


after

 

But don't give up on me quite yet...

My Dad wants me to sell this 28 AR pickup for him. It's complete, but all apart. He said if Iw anted to get the thing pieced together and run/drive he'd split the money with me beings I got laid off from work. So another banger is born

 

Bill,
That is great info on the Winfields.

Is there a kit to convert to side draft?

Does the conversion work better on Up draft or Down draft?

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I believe DAN McEACHERN ([email protected]) 510 532 8228 makes some for $100 a pop. I made mine with some 3/8's Al plate, a small drill press, a Dremel tool and a 6 pack of Coors. As to up or down I have done both but I think they are "clocked" different. Been 10 or 12 years ago. I have seen 1 photo of dan's and I think they are cast as were the original I had thought to make a settup on my rotary table but by the time I had done some layout and drilling the initial holes one evening and I had consumed most of a sixpack and decided, what the hell I can just hog this out with my dremel. The main thing is to get the ports "clocked" right so as to match intermediate and high. My layout was on square oieces but I scribed and bandsawed to shape. I used 1/4 28 allen flattop screws on the blind side and regular Winfield studs to assemble. I made my own manifold out of scrap Al. tubing and odds and ends of plate. When I got my first Sac Vintage Catalog a few years later i found cast side draft manifolds for sale. I'm gathering pieces to make a new manifold as I'm going to use 1 3/4" "C"'s on my Winfield and I can't run the hood with downdrafts If you look close you can see the adapters between the float chambers and throttle bodies. If you have a copy of Dain Gingerilli's book Ford Hot Rods you will see a photo of this same settup with straight air horns, looked better but fuel would bleed out all down the side of the car at speed..

 

They look great hanging on the side there, Bill....

 

Thank you. For years I had heard about sidedrafts and and everyone was going to do it. I have been told by a couple of guys who I consider to be very knowledgeable that you could run them up or down but I tried just to satisfy myself and they don't work with out the adapters. The engine will run but not very well The castings are designed for all of the parts to work with each individual component. The main jet has it's own well and is shaped different than the intermediate, and feeds it's own port to the spray bar that is placed in the proper airflow caused by the pie shaped throttle valve. If I remember correctly I just flipped the adapter plates over and cut new countersink on the other side to switch the sidedrafts for an up or down float chamber. I'm speaking in regards to side draft's Actually the carburetors in the photo in Ford Hot Rods is of one up and one down draft converted. On the Red winfield they are both down drafts.

 

NO I never went to that one I might have to look into it.

 

Thanks Bill
I dont see any BU or BD
side off float chamber SER-SAAD 2034
Side with to brass plugs S-20-AD
main body SER-SB 12858
I hope I didn't buy junk. I will take it apart and look in side

 

Thanks for the info Bill.

How did it run with that set up?

Is that engine set up with bigger valves?


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I'm in the home stretch and this last bit is killing me _ I want to drive soooo bad. Thanks for all the pics to keep me inspired guys!!!!

 

What you have, if I'm deciphering correctly is a "B" throttle body with an "AA" downdraft bowl. This is a pretty common mix of parts. This combination of using the next smaller float chamber was recommended by Winfield to correct "stumbling". One word of caution. If you take it apart back off the high and intermediate adjusting needle screws. They sometimes (most) do not line up easily and you can damage them by forcing the float chamber top screws. They will go right in place when you screw them back after top screws are tightened, Always screw the adjusting needle screws in to a easy stop and count the number of clicks as you do so as to reset the needles. If you need to reset the float height I would recommend that you take the lever out of the casting to bend it as if you use too much force the casting bosses will break. When you take it apart the jet sizes will/should be stamped on the jets. I can send you the proper jet size # if you want to open them up to "B" size.

 

I have been to the Thompson swap meet for the past 3-4 years. Not a ton of old stuff. Mostly just race teams selling parts (A-arms, heads, tires) I did score some 30-31 "A" cowls last year for 15 bucks each!! and a few complete front axles for 10 bucks both from the same guy. If you look hard enough you can find almost anything there. Stafford is this up coming weekend. Not much "A" stuff there but it is sure fun to walk around!

Mike

 

very cool posts by all..

hang in there skunky!

 

chris,

i'm looking for a pre 1940 flathead v8 intake that is tall like the one on the 33 or 34 coupe. is that an early wiend?

 

I ran a 76 MPH at Palmdale one year, don't remember the ET but it was high because of my slow shifting. Word was air at palmdale would/could cost 10 to 15%. That block has 1 3/4" intakes with the block opened up to 1 9/16" I also milled the guide's off almost flush in the valve chamber or pocket. Don't expect much side play/pressure with the "A" Valves. Also have 11/32" stems. Valves were someones leftovers from a SBC build. I cut the intake valves from 2" to 1 3/4" 30 degree 3 angle seat on the intakes 45 on the 1.650 exhaust also left over SBC exhaust. Stems were shorter so I made some longer screws/bolts for the single lock lifters. I'll tell you a story about that particular settup. I pulled the engine down for some forgotten reason and while it was down I changed the cam from a Jim Brierley SU1R to a Mike Hart SU1R which is or was the original "Salty Dog" grind, about .050 less lift but it had a much better lopy idle. Just sounded "hotter" but the car never ran as fast as with the original Brierley cam. I tuned, swapped out the Gene Scott repop Winfield and put on an original Winfield "Crows foot that had been milled so much, approx, .200, so most of the crows foot is gone. 100 ccs combustion chamber so compression was close to 9 to one or at least 8.5 to one and the damn thing never got back what it had before I changed the cam

 

polish inside of each chamber to a mirror finish. get rid of all edges inside the chamber. do not change shape of chamber. looks to me like the sixties harley racing design thing going on with the step down and all. it proved to be very good at the time. make sure they are each equally cc'd. run it like that and see what you think.

again i have let go of 2 pennies!

 

is that a new head, if so who makes it? looks very tasty!

 

can't answer about who makes it but here's one place it can be bought. H&H for 500.00

http://www.handhantique.com/speed/speed.html