Hot Rods Other than vega for cross steer

What have you used other than the expensive vega box for cross steer? I'm building a 31 Ford.

 

How can you use mustang for cross steer??

 

depends on how you define "expensive"....i have bought them for $15-$25 in the past , the most i have ever paid was $100

 

37-41 Ford

 

37-48 Ford pass box ,add ujoints if needed.

 

I used a manual box from a '64 Chevelle on my '38 Ford pickup. The splines are the same as the early Ford box, so the stock Ford pitman arm fits as is. Used an adapter plate from Chassis Engineering to mount the box.

 

I know this isn't really an answer to the inexpensive question,, , but Just for info.. I used a UNI-STEER unit (which is a "half" rack and pinion unit,cross steer, built to replace the vega box)..on a customers model A sedan,..and on our model A shop truck.. they drive really nice, but have the same turning radius as a 1979 CREWCAB long bed chevy truck.. (WOW, INCONVENIENT).. called unisteer,(really nice people), they said that's about right, they don't turn very sharp. so I would use a conventional box..

 

I'm using a 37 Ford box as well, couldn't beat the free price tag.

 

You will probably save money in the long run by using the "expensive vega" box

 

525 GM boxes are a little larger than vega boxes but easy to find.

 

Mid 80's 2wd ford ranger or mazda pickup box...reversed... Is what i am using.. Reversed because thats what i had to do to make it work in my particular application

 

Seems like we had a thread about these a while back and a comment was made that they had the same potential amount of drag link travel as the Vega.

You may want to see if your steering stop nuts are too long.
That will increase the full-lock turning radius.

The stop nuts - including thick AN style washer - are 1 3/8" long as supplied by most aftermarket shops.

I did get a pair 1 5/8" long - w/washer for my 32 when it was originally assembled - and the steering radius was too much.

Stop nuts are easily cut down on the lathe.
I did mine in two 1/8" cuts and tried it out each time.

 

Take a look at the Borgeson U-joint site.

They sell rebuilt steering boxes and have a lot of information about them on the catalog pages along with photos.

One interesting bit is that several of them - including a power steering box are a direct bolt-on to a Vega mount.

 

I use the uni-steer unit on my '31 Tudor.... I really like it...

 

I used a saginaw 525 on my 31 A coupe and it worked real well. They are in Mid Size GM 64/76. Buick/Olds/Pontiac/Chevy New they are about $200 used $60

 

I have one on my 32 3W ... it drives great BUT ... it takes a 20 acre field to turn it around

I have a very nice low mileage original Vega steering box that I have been saving ( just in case ... I needed to replace the one on my 32 Roadster ) ... I might just install it on the 3W ...

 

S-10 manual box

 

nope, somebody measured wrong, or they made the differntly long ago... the one s we put in,used pete and jakes steering arms,and the ateering rack is centered so it turns the same eitheway, and the steering stops are approx 1/4" from touching.. (both ways) the rack simply doesn't have enough travel..

 

The best box for a model ford is a f-1 box that came on the 1948-1952 p.u. , for it gives you the most clearance with the engine you are useing ,but you end up with side steering which is more traditional, theyngo from 80.00 dlls to 250.00 dlls , depending on hard you look, if you must go with cross steer, then the 37 - 48 box would be my choice, you can make these side steer by flipping the box.

 

I used a 68 chevelle manual box in my T and it bolted up to the vega mount bracket.

 

I will agree with the 20 acres.... but I still like it...

 

Edweird,
More info, what did you use the S10 manual box on? I have several, still able to find them in the u-pull-yards cheap, grab them up when I find them, they look like they will work in about anything, ones going in my 51 Jeep CJ3A i'm putting a straight axle in.

 

1/4" is a long ways away . . . you knew that though.

This is the length stop - 1 3/8" - on both my 31 (pictured) and the 32.


It's amazing what a difference a 1/4" makes.


You're talking about a similar nut?
I've seen quite a few cars with a regular nut or thinner jam nut holding the lock-pin in and the steering is limited by the steering box internal stops.
Not good.


A shorter steering arm may do it, but if you went as short as I think you would have to, steering effort would be considerably harder.


My opinion on the Uni-Steer is; it's the answer to a question no one asked.

I'd be reverting to a standard steering box if there was one in my car.

Mainly for a reasonable turn radius, but also for safety as well.

I don't think it's gonna fail anytime soon, but if you have to turn sharp to avoid an accident....

 

Here's another pic that shows the stop nut a little better.

 

My opinion on this is that if you need to make that sharp of a turn to avoid an accident, you are following to closely... The uni-steer is very responsive and have only been in a couple of situations where where I wish it turned sharper.

 

Good point, but I don't follow too close and in fact hang back too far.

Usual problem is the idiots in parking lots.
They expect you to turn in and get parked in one shot.
If you have to do the back and fill.


Not knockin' anyones personal choice, but I note you've been in a few situations where you would have liked to have had a sharper turning car.


Seems to me the Uni-Steer could have been engineered for a tighter turn right up front so they wouldn't have to answer "how come" questions about turning capabilities and probably would have more sales....

 

There is a trick to get a Uni Steer to turn tighter, but they won't tell ya.
Anybody want to know call me @ 928-445-RODS (7637)
Have done over 15 of 'em with no problem.

 

To use the Falcon/Mustang/early Cougar/early Comet/Maverick. late Comet steering box for cross-steering simply mount it as it was in the Mustang/etc. it came in with the pitman arm facing forward. You can mount it near the stock location of any early Ford or if the front end is a suicide style forward of the motor mounts near the radiator. A pillow block nearing and a couple of u-joints get the steering shaft connected and you've got a good box. Most rebuild parts are available from the aftermarket.
A smaller but very similar box in style was used on the early Toyota Celicas.

 

Used an early Nova box on my deuce and it bolted right up to the Vega mount. Picked it up at a swap meet for $15.

 

There have been times that I wished it turned sharper... but I guess I have just learned where to start my turn into parking spaces and such... I have gotten to the point where I have to take that 2nd stab at it less often...