I have questioned, I have looked and I have researched... Then I jumped off the deep end. I have striped and layed out gaphics for a bunch of folks and never charged for my services... Till now I went back to all those folks and here's what I got... 27 T Speedway body, 9" rear, powerglide(broken), headers and the guys help to bend and weld the frame...500.00 15X4 Crager SS 100.00 tubing for the frame 260.00 al kinds of brackets and hairpins and tank from sppeway 600.00 Couple weeks of work and here is what I came up with... Everything is tacked and ready to go back this week for final weilding Engine will be normaly asperated SBC on racing fuel trannsmision will be 3 speed using top 2 gears
Don't tell me I'm the only one who thinks this is cool as Hell.. and on a budget too! And I'm not saying this just because he's my big brother either. Vance
Have you ever built a drag chassis before? Did you work from a blueprint? I've done a few and don't want to hurt your feelings nor dampen your enthieusasm but it don't look right to me
It looks very 1963 to me, but that's not going to get you past tech in 2010. At a minimum the roll cage will need to be much narrower, so you head is within 3" of the side and top bars. It will probably need additional diagonal braces. Not trying to pick it apart, just trying to keep you from finishing it and then having to make wholesale changes. At this stage changes can be made so much easier.
If this is going to be bracket raced on a local track you "might " be OK. It depends on what rules the track bases their safety requirements on. LIke some already posted if NHRA requirements are in force you might want to check frame/roll cage specs before proceeding. Frank
The Winged Express has a wide cage, before doing any welding you should get ahold of Rooman (he's a member here) since he worked on "The Wing" Mike Boyd working on the wing
Well what don't look right to you? I know I have to add more bracing but was waiting till I got the tranny that I am goin to run(3 speed manual) that way I can work my brake and clutch into it. And yes all I will probably be doing with this car is bracket racing. The three tracks that are around here are all nhra tracks. To get my big ass in the car we had to go wide on the cage... I'm 6'4" and close to 400lbs. No I had no drawn out plans just looked at the post here and there and came up with this. It is only tacked to together so if I have to blow it apart and start over a little advice would be appreaciated. So let it fly you ain't gonna hurt my fellings.
Holy Cow John they build linebackers out there in the Midwest I guess Great job and thanks for posting your progress. It should be a lot of fun for you. Please do 3 things. Get your self an NHRA rulebook Get a hold of your local inspector and get tight with him. If you have not raced before go with somone and help them out. A bunch. If the car runs slower then 9.90 NHRA, 9.00 IHRA then you only need local Track tech then you want to talk to him (your track person) more so. I say this because depending on your track and person they can vary and push something thats near and dear to them. Not saying this is not a good thing because input is always good. But we are Human. And why go to the track and be aggrivated. Even if the car does not need inspection you can still get really hurt. Appease your track tech, NHRA rules and go even more. Wouldnt hurt to get a reputable chassis shop to give her a look over also. Most people are accomidating and reasonable if you respect them. You may want to pay extra attention to your belts as in anchoring and placement. Its spelled out very well as in angles, location etc.. You may need to weld in certain attachment points and bars to get the belts correct for you. Bottom line is check your Rule book , build it corectly make sure you fully understand materials - workmanship of what you are starting with. Drag on Brother Be safe, Be sure. That person in the other lane is counting on you also.. Luke
Looking good John. I like what you got goin on there. Tradin off really helps too. The car should be pretty damn kool.
Your issue is going to be with that upper framerail. I don't think there is a tech guy alive who is going to let that run the way it is. The upper rail must be a continuous run from the motorplate upright to the shoulder hoop. Two splices (sleaved and rosette welded) are allowed, and even required when you get to SFI specs. They would be between the seat upright and the front hoop of the rollcage. If you search the net, you will find a bunch of pics and illustrations showing the standard configuration for an altered/funnycar chassis. Use those as a basic guideline. If you think it will help, you can call me (send a PM and I'll shoot you back my number) and I can go over the whole thing with you.
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