Just scored a donor car for my 1950 Chrysler. Does anyone know if the stock rear end will hold up to a treefitty?
My guess is yes. Way back in the 70's my best friend and I each ran small block Chevies in our 41 Plymouth coupe and 47 Plymouth coupe. We broke several Chevy transmissions but the old Mopar rears never gave any trouble. Your challenge will be that the yoke on the rear end does not use a standard cross type u-joint like your GM trans will.
I would suggest finding a complete MoPaR drive train for it.... Get a '60s-'70s Wagon with a V8 & an 8 3/4 Rear end with matching wheel bolt pattern and build a nice car. Why the Fuck do Most people think a 350 chevy is the answer ?
Check this thread on P15-D24.com: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=15011&highlight=bolt+rear Source for rear end info: http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/chrysler_8_34_rearends.htm From the P15-D24 forum "I did the swap with a 1972 sattelite rear axle in my 1950 business coupe in 1 saturday afternoon, the only special part you need is a adaptor for the drive shaft."
Look here De Soto, I've been looking for a donor car and this running 350/350 fell into my lap for $200. This wasn't my first choice but its what I got. 'finding a mopar drivetrain' is hardly helpful input nor is it the question I asked. I don't think that running a 318 would make my car nicer, just a dodge
The Key words in you reply are :: " Wasen't my First choice, But its what i got" Maybe if more people held out for there First Choice, There wouldnt be so many 350/350 Chevy powered cars out there. But Ya Know, I was just trying to suggest a different route in building somthing Unique instead of another Chevy Powered Rat Rod. Excuse my Ignorance as i have no Clue to how COOL it is to drop a Chevy in Every Project that rolls thru my Hands... Proceed my Friend
You didn't suggest anything except that my car wouldn't be nice with a 350 in it. You answered an unasked question with an opinion that was unwanted. My first choice was to run a FORD 460 with a six speed manual. All I wanted to know was if the rear end would hold up to a 350. If you have any pertinent input I would gladly hear it.
there's a early 50's new yorker here in oregon running a buick 455 engine with the original rear-end and front suspension. holds up just fine.
I think you should start out with the stock rear.It depends on how you drive it on how long it lasts,unabused it should be ok.You can replace it later if you start having problems with it.... Steve
+1 The big problem is going to be with matching the Ujoint as the early Mopars had a setup that wasn't adaptable to anything else. As far as running the 350 goes, run it. Sure it's a bellybutton engine but that makes it fairly inexpensive to be able to run and trinkets for it are everywhere at reasonable prices. Some of the people who consistently go postal when ever someone mentions 350 loose sight of the fact that not everyone is able budget the required funds to build one of the "cool" engines. The multi carb setup on some of the trick old engines have more money tied up in them than someone throwing a 350/350 in a 50 Chrysler will spend on the whole car. Constantly displaying an attitude like that is no better than being a gold chainer street rodder who constantly name drops and then looks down his nose at anyone who doesn't drive the latest and greatest designer rod. I've got nine engines in my garage or sheds right now. 2 350 four bolt Chevs 1 455 Olds 1 350 R or Olds 1 331 Desoto 1 226 flathead Ford six 1 254 (possibly) M code flathead Six 1 292 Chev Six 1 250 Chev Six Plus a 216 or 235 48 Chev Babbitt beater in parts. On a cool to run factor the Desoto would be obviously the coolest. it is also far and away the most expensive to put together even without any trick parts added. Back to the rear end question. Billa212 I think if you were to look under later 60's through mid 80's full and mid size Mopars you could find a rear end that would be plenty strong and have the same bolt pattern as the front hubs. The 8-3/4 Mopar rears should be plenty stout and not too expensive. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Thanks guys, that's what I was looking for. I'll try to work with the stock rear and see what happens. The automatic should help my lead foot.
What kind of power does it make? If it makes much more than 200 I'd be very careful. Be easy on the pedal, and you might be ok.
As I recall, 55-57 chevy was the right width and the spring pads only needed the holes elongated about 1/4 in to fit. But then you are stuck with two different wheel lug patterns. Possibly you could have the driveshaft made up with a chevy type u-joint on the front and the mopar "constant velocity" type on the rear. The original mopar rear is probably a 4:10 or something close if that is important. I think they have a keyed drum to axle fit which means you will need a puller to remove the rear drums.
find a ford truck or van rearend as it will have the same bolt pattern (5 on 5.5) as the chrysler then get it narrowed to fit. last rearend you'll ever need to put in.
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