basic 6 volt ignition Please HELP!

everybody keeps telling me . "change to 12volt" yadayadayada .. NO. i'd like to keep it 6volt. (37 Chrysler Royal Coupe)

so i do know that this is a Positive ground system.
and basically all the wiring will and has to be gone thru and re-wired because of the cloth wires fraying.

i have been goin through the motor and am ready to fire it besides from the wiring..thats where i'd like some help.

what wires are are needed to fire it up and where exactly are they ran?

the original ignition and coil.
the orig. coil was mounted thru the firewall. -
one wire ran from center of coil to distributor.
and on top of this coil there is only one post. i am unsure of whether or not this woulld be the positive or negative ..
and another wire ran from the bottom of the coil to the back of the ignition.

i went ahead and bought a new universal ignition. and new coil. because i do not have correct keys for the original ignition. and am unsure of where which wires go where.

Ive got the battery cables wired. Negative to starter and Positive grounded.
other than that... where do the wires go to coil??

also.. besides a key ignition. would it be any easier to run a toggle switch for igntion? i really just need to get this thing to run. dont really care about whether it'd be key igntion or toggle ..

any guidance or help would be great and appreciated.

 

right. i have already connected a wire from a stud on the coil to distributor. and one wire from the coil to the IGN. point on Key ignition.
yes it is a mechanical start switch from the floor.
i tried wiring it both ways and cranking it on both points but nothing. only the horn buzzed. .. ??

possibly is the starter shot?
when i first got the car we were trying to see if the motor would turn so we jumped the motor from the starter and it did crank. would this have shot the starter??
if so these (starer) can be rebuilt??

still searching for correct wiring schematic..

 

Try this forum, you should be able to find what you're looking for. Good luck.

http://forums.aaca.org/

 

On your original coil: the small wire terminal on the top of the coil is (+) and goes to your points. The terminal on the bottom of your coil is (-) and goes to the "I" on your original keyed ignition switch. If you use a toggle switch, one terminal of the toggle goes to the (-) terminal of your battery, and the other goes to the bottom terminal of your original coil. Using the new coil, the wire that comes from the "I" on the original switch, (or (+) on your toggle), goes to the (-) on the coil...the (+) on the coil goes to the points. The starter is cabled directly from the battery (-) to the starter, and should operate with your original switch (or toggle) on OR off. Just FYI, the 345 Hemi in my Avitar is 6V (+) ground...including the starter...

 

I believe there is and inter connect in the stock system where by the starter will not engage unless the ignition is on. On my 46, the key has to be in the on position or the starter button will not connect. You can bypass it at the solenoid. temporarily.

As far as coil wires go the deal is that the Points go to Ground, therefore whatever ground system the car has, should be how the coil terminals are hooked, so for positive ground the positive terminal is connected to the points, and the negative to the ign switch.

Make sure your cables are correct for 6V application the primary cables need to be 1 gauge minimum, and 0 gauge is preferable. 6V depends on current flow and low resistance and good grounds, without those they can be problematic.

the Starter should be fine, they are very stout units and jumping with 12v shouldn' hurt even if you might have reversed the polarity. Since they are not permanent magnets, they spin the same way regardless of the ground.

 

thank you for your guys' help.

any other advice or info out there?

 

345 DESOTO : The starter is cabled (+) directly to the battery, (-) to the starter, ..

I dont get that ..
starter should be wired Neg. (-) from battery to starter .. right?? .. and positive to ground . . ?

 

R.ALLEN - Mistake fixed...too many (+)'s and (-)'s...

 

Talk to Randy at Fifth Avenue Internet Garage....

 

wired everything up to the best way i could figure. wires get hott but nothing else. .

 

some consideration for a new wire kit may in line. I worked with and helped the owner of Rebel Wire to design and create a 6v fused kit that can be easily swapped into your car. I put one in a 40 Buick and it had ever acessory known to man in it...Works like a champ.

Nothing wrong with 6 volt...just remember you have to have a great grounding system in the car.

 

the new key ignition i got has a diagram that shows .
post for acc.
post for bat. (+)
post for starter
and post for ignition.

i was wondering since this is a positive ground system would that mean that my batt. post on the key ignition should actually be wired to negative instead of (+)?

and also. there needs to be a ground from frame to motor right?

 

all hooked up.
now as soon as i connect the battery cables to battery starter starts to crank but does not crank ovver motor ...?

? anybody?

 

btt

 

I believe they were a stomp to start deal with a foot powered manual switch. So you need to power the bendix by hand,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBNc54wnd1k&feature=related

 

i realize that. it is a stomp start.
and it is engaged. still doesnt crank over the motor just cranks the starter. ..

 

sounds like the starter drive is bad.

 

Yep make sure its travelling far enough to engage the flywheel, and the the teeth are in good shape on both the starter and the flywheel. Many time you can achieve a fix by flipping the gear on the drive. and if the ring gear is worn the flywheel can be removed and the ring gear flipped over also.