yea, with as much good info as has been piling up in this thread, i'm really hoping this dont turn into a dick slamming contest to see who can make the biggest dent in the table
when you do the electronic delete, with the vacuum modulator, do you have to shift it manually or can you put it in drive and go like a th400?
The transgo -3 kit gives you manual only. holds any gear at any rpm, standing start in any gear. It doesn't have a "Drive" function. The transmission doesn't have a conventional governor with springs and weights it has two speed sensors one for input shaft speed and one for output shaft speed. Several companies make a small box that plugs into these sensors and into the valve body, giving you a "drive" function. I don't recommend a "rachet" type shifter unless you are running at the dragstrip frequently, but with a normal shifter that can go all the way to 1st gear easily, the manual only mode isn't really too much hassle. The nice thing is that it still has engine braking in all gears, unlike many trans brake systems.
This transmission isn't for everyone, however if you have all or most of the following: 1. A heavy car (3500# and up) 2. Deep rear gears (4.10 and higher with 28" tires) 3. Daily driver or extended interstate driving 4. Big cam that requires a loose converter (3000+ RPM stall speed) 5. Limited cooling system capacity 6. Over 500 hp to the wheels Then this is a very good option. Item# 3 is the big one for deciding on this transmission. If you don't drive it more than 5 - 10 miles a week, then just use a powerglide or TH400, both can take 500 hp to the wheels easy, and are cheaper to build/buy. But if you are like me, with a 30 mile drive one way to work, then a TH400 or glide starts to suck bad enough that you won't drive your hot rod to work anymore...
Interesting. I know my 55 is not too bad with a mild gear, since the mild cam and 6-71 makes so damn much torque...but if your engine is a high winder then you need deep rearend gears, and the OD sounds like a good way to go
twinturbo, Thanks for the info! I have never installed a -3 kit in a 4L80E, so I was just curious how everything worked. Hopefully I will get into one in the future. One more question does the modulator go in where the case connector used to be? If you had a picture of the modulator on it I would really appreciate it. Again I am just really curious. Thanks, Take Care
The vacuum modulator goes inside the pan, directly into the valve body in place of the force motor. The transgo part appears to be a th400 part with the end machined off. I am 90% happy with the -3 kit, the shift from 1-2 is good, 3-4 is excellent, neutral to reverse is fine, manual downshifting is fine. The only real problem is the 2-3 shift is a little slow, however I still can make one hole in the valve body bigger to improve 2-3 shift speed, I just haven't gotten motivated to do it yet. Also, the instructions are not perfectly clear.
Some 4L80E photos. More are in my album. Note that the tail shaft bolt pattern is very close, but NOT exactly the same as a TH400. If a person wanted too, drilling out the mating holes a little and using a gasket instead of an o-ring you could put on the TH400 extension. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3929
Real hot rods have three pedals. If you want an overdrive hang one off the back of an early 3 or 4 speed. Thats the way the old timers did it and that's the way any traditional hot rod should be done.
Is there an echo in here??? If you wanna talk about overdriving a manual transmission, fine-------------start a thread about it. Larry T
By the way I have several different cars/projects. I ride a HD VROD. Built in Kansas City U.S.A. by United Steel Workers union labor. I believe in supporting our own just like the people on this board do. You should no that car guys like to poke a little fun here and there. That's all I was doin' so take a chill pill. I even have a 63 falcon that I drive on a regular basis with a slushbox. If you want to know about the rest of my projects click on my name and view my profile. I even have a friend that rides a Vmax but I poke fun at him too, even if his jap bike can out run my harley. My brother even rides and races those three cylinder Triumphs too. I still poke fun at him too. Nuff said.
i'm sorry to hear that, lotta money in them shops look, point is, someone in this very thread already brought up the "three pedals" bullshit, and got called out for it... it gets old. not to mention the fact, most people who have posted information or ideas on this thread are looking at them in CUSTOMS. you know, the closed fender, IFS, bagged, AC'd things with all the shiny paint on them?
My bad. I should have updated my signature line. V-max is gone, replaced by a 1980 C10 250, 3 on the column. Wife drives a 05 GTO. This is not the correct forum to discuss the impact of unions on manufacturing in the US.
My day job is a machinist at Goodyear tire in Topeka, Ks. I am a USW member. That is why I say I support my own. I know we could debate for hours about the benefits or lack of, of union labor. That could get bitter so we won't start that. This is no place for it anyway. I also have my own shop at home building engines, working on customers cars etc. that I have been trying to get off the ground for a couple of years. Lots of work not much money. So I know both sides of the coin so to speak. I better get off here now and do something constructive. I still have to unload the dragster from the races yesterday. If you want to hear how that went check out the HAMB nationals board, I posted on there between all of our fun. Have a good one.
Someone needs to take a hint and not dirty up an interesting thread. What is the weight of a 4L80E, vs say a TH350?
Less than 50 pounds difference between th350/400/700r4/4l80e other than the stock converter, the 4l80e stock converter is far heavier than a typical th350 mild street converter. I am sure that the stock converter mass hurts dragstrip performance, and I plan to get a much lighter stronger billet Circle D unit with multiple clutch discs, however they are nearly $1000, and that is tough for me too purchase, even though they have proven performers on the track. For a typical custom with a mild smallblock, a TH700R4 is a much better option, the 3.06 first gear is better for heavy cars with less power anyway...
I realize this thread is a bit old, but I was just reading through it today. It appears to me those complaining about a 4l80e are those that don't have one or have not used one. Those that do have or use one love it. Just something to note for those thinking about one. I have 2 vehicles myself with 4l80e's, I have installed 4-5 more 80e's in trucks (GMC Syclone/Typhoons). I have a passion for them. I just went through my own 80e and it is a very simple transmission to rebuild for those willing to do the work yourself, nothing real secret about them. I won't claim to be an expert on transmissions but what I have been told a 80e shifts by allowing components to start spinning. Each gear pack is its own section. a 700r4/4l60(e) do not have dedicated packs and use combinations. some shifting requires the transmission to stop things that are moving. Would you rather start to push a car, or stop one coming at you? The 700 that came from factory in the GMC trucks I am familiar with just don't hold up to anything other than normal grandma driving. Add some power, combined with our AWD system and they don't last. Same with towing the 700/4l60 just doesn't have enough clutch to tow in OD. I see a lot of people wanting to remove electronics also. I understand the cost side, I don't like the transgo option as you cannot go back without a new valvebody. Rossler makes a plug in kit if you want simple no computer shifting. www.rosslertrans.com Hybrid Manual Valve body "The Little Black box"® PCS makes a nice aftermarket computer (http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com), sure its ~$750 but what you get out of the transmission with it is priceless IMO. My truck shifts like a caddy at low throttle, yet runs low 11's at the track, stalls to 3600rpm or so, 1.60 60 ft times and I have yet to turn the power up. With the computer you get FULL control over shift points which is Throttle and MPH based. You also get full control over line pressure and how hard it shifts. If you are really on a budget you can use a stock GM computer, make up your own harness. Cost ~$50. I have done it twice now. First one is working 7 years later, replacement computer is in stock at most autoparts stores. (GM ecm from a 95 tahoe is what I have used) Weight seems to be a thing people complain about along with how it takes more power to operate. #1 the stock convertor is ~70lbs. Get an aftermarket (which seem to be dropping in price daily) and you loose most of the extra weight. Its still heavy but are you worried about 40lbs, honestly? I have used coan, yank, and precision convertors with success. #2 on the power to run, we took a gmc syclone running a 700 to track many times, swapped to the 80e and first time out it ran FASTER. Maybe it was gears, I really don't know nor does it matter to me. It surely didn't go slower. Now more related to this site, I think for any custom that you plan to drive a lot of highway miles, cruise around in and want comfort and piece of mind the 80e is an option. If your not making big power the 4l60e can work also, I think you will find the cost between the 80e and 60e is the convertor cost and not much else though. Tow rig, no doubt the 80e is the way to go and reason they are used in motorhomes, school buses, etc. Jaguar even put the 80e in a few cars from factory.
Cool....but I'm concerned about the length... Will you need to shorten your torque tube to run one???
Someone asked what all they came in, I know they first came out in '91 in the 3/4 ton, but were in the 1/2 ton SS454. I thought that was the only 1/2 ton application? By the way, towing in high gear? Without a doubt awesome!
I case it hasn't been mentioned, the current version of the TCI control box has two shift modes, so you can have economy or performance shifts, at the flick of a switch. It can go into manual mode too, so you can push-button/paddle shift it too. All right out of the box, just add the switches/paddles. For the blower/turbo guys, it can monitor a MAP sensor and use its data to make decisions too. Crazy programmable, super easy. I built a 4L80E to run behind a OT inter-cooled turbo Diesel that makes 600lb.-ft. of torque. Harshly abused often, and not a peep out of it.
Yes, the 91+ 454SS trucks were a 1/2 ton truck and did have a 4L80E in them, but they weren't exactly a normal 1/2 ton truck. The 4L80E was used in many of the HD 3/4 Ton and 1 Ton trucks, vans and SUV's and were available in 2WD and 4x4 version. They were also used in Rolls-Royces, Bentleys, Jaguars and Aston Martins as well. Over the years they had refinements and improvements done to them. 91-93 is the first generation 80E's, not really the best for performance builds. 94-96 had updated electronics, internal wiring harness and case connector. 97-98 received lubrication system improvements. 99-00 had yet more lube system improvements and a wider band. 01+ retained the same improvements as the 99-00 trans, along with wider planets and a new overdrive arrangment.
let's say a guy found a 91 model for a good price, and he wanted it for his ot big block tow rig. Besides the transgo kit, what else is actually needed for a 400hp 530 ftlbs torque engine so this thing can live?
'91 would probably benefit from an updated wiring harness, the transgo kit adds the safety for over pressure. At that power level not much else, you can do an upgraded input shaft for a safety margin, thats really all I would suggest. Of course you can do more, with any part there is a chance of something breaking at some point. I compare a stock 4l80e to a built 4l60e/700 but with much better drivability.
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