All you HAMBers have been big helps on a few other issues I have had and I need your help on another. I have a 1964 Ford Falcon 4-Door Wagon with the 170 engine and the Ford-O-Matic 2 speed trans. The car has 106,000 original miles and I do not beleive the engine or trans have ever been out of the car. The car did set for about 6 years before I got it and I have yet to flush the tranny out and didn't need to add but about 1 pint of fluid. I would think if the fluid drained out of the torque converter in to the pan (have been told this could be the issue, but don't think so) the problem would have corrected itself by now or would have showed up as being overfilled on the dipstick. The problem is that once warmed up and car is travelling 40+ MPH I have a smokescreen following me. Once I stop I can see oil of some kind on the exhaust directly below the tranny dipstick tube(I am assuming oil is being pushed out of the trans). Trans shifts fine (smooth between 30-40 mph), doesn't seem to be slipping, and doesn't overheat the car. It does tend to shift hard into Reverse and Drive from park but I think that is normal for these tranny's (so I have been told). I have put about 40 miles on the car since I have put it back together. I am needing some help diagnosing this before I take it to the trusted transmission shop to sort out. Don't want to spend the money on an easy fix. I also don't want to smoke the trans or have a fire which is why I don't think I can live with it as is. I am going to see if the vent is plugged tonight or tomorrow and after that I have no other things that I would know to check. As always any and all help is appreciated.
sounds like an internal pressure leak somewhere, or maybe over full on fluid, or getting hot. It is possible that while it set the piston seals hardened up and are now causing a pressure leak. Hope you get it figured out. Good luck.
Two things come to my mind, converter drain back valve is stuck open. But that would show up after sitting for awhile on the dipstick. The vent idea is good. I would check this first. The second idea is if the cooling lines are leaking somewhere. And when the car is moving at 40 or so, the pressure is maxed out and fluid even finds the small leaks. good luck
I am a dumbass . .got under the car and cleaned everyhting up, removed the inspection cover off the trans and cleaned it up as well, and i also cleaned up all of the tranny line fittings. Took the car for a drive and got a little smoke. Got home and then started inspecting and in the inspection cover was a pretty good amount of oil. Turns out I have a pretty bad rear main seal leak. At least is ins't the transmission. I guess I get to pull the motor and replace the rear main unless someone knows whether the bars leaks rear main seal repair oil additive works or not. I really would rather wait until winter to pull the motor and repair the seal, then I can detail the motor, engine compartment, etc. Thanks for the help.
Forget the seal in the can if it leaks that bad. That should be a rubber 2 piece seal ,don't really need to pull the engine to replace. If you want to try a real okie backwoods fix pour 4 oz of brake fluid in the pan and drive it 15 minutes or so times 3 or 4 days and see what happens. I've personally had fair luck doing this on engine and steering box seals. DO NOT use more is better, that amount will either help or the seal is too dead for anything to help.
John: Does this brake fluid fix work on wick type seals as IIRC Y blocks used? I would think it wouldn't do anything for wick seals. Neoprene seals would stand a chance of working, depending on how worn or damaged it is.
Just drop the drive shaft and move the trans back a little, get underneath and replace the seal. You are going to have to do it one day or another...do it now while your psyched up about it..just remember the hardest part of the job is getting started. You would be in the middle of it right now if you werent trying to figure out a shortcut. Just saw it was a 2 piece seal, so you may have to drop the pan, not sure if there is a cap or not.
hope this is kosher to post http://falconfaq.dyndns.org/ it has a shop manual for 64's that could help out if you need it if you want some help wrenching on the dern thing let me know and I'll see if I can slip up sometime and help I drive a 61 four door and I have started to become quite familiar with the 170 fordomatic combo anyway good luck and let us know how it works out
D2 Willys: On the old rope seals years ago the best thing I ever used was STP in the old blue can. Straight weight oils also seem to leak less. I remember "Havolene" 10-30 when it first came out in the late 50s , that stuff would leak through solid metal let alone gaskets. LOL
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